Don’t fear the Spanish Acquisition:

In Spain, traditional wine regions remain the standard-bearer for the wines of the country. Your local Wine Warehouse has just received a shipment of Spanish wines from the Eric Solomon portfolio from all over Spain. Many of our favorites are back. Let's take a look at some wines from the regions of Galicia, Priorat and Rioja.

Located in Galicia, the region of Rias-Baixas is heavily influenced by the Atlantic ocean, with high levels of rainfall and relative humidity. Temperatures are moderate and the region is extremely fertile, with miles and miles of green rolling hills. The vineyards are planted on these gently rolling hills on dark, humid soil which sits over granitic, and in some places, schist soils.

It wasn’t until the last 20 years that progressive thinking winemakers of the region began to think that Rias-Baixas deserved it own D.O. Their change in thinking arose primarily from their belief that the Albarino varietal, grown on these specific soils in Northwestern Spain, produced an amazingly delicious wine that could not be duplicated in other parts of the country. The varietal is characterized by low yields, difficulty of cultivation, and delicate berries. Although other varietals are grown in the zone, a wine must be produced from 100% Albarino to receive the Rias-Baixas D.O.

Burgans is produced by Martin Codax. This is a pure expression of Albarino as it seees no wood aging. A good Albarino can resemble the crisp aspects of Pinot Grigio with the floral characters of Viognier. This wine is always the best value Albarino for the vintage.

'Musky aromas of ginger, flint and flowers. Quite dry and focused, with intense flavors of pineapple, lemon, ginger and minerals. Lovely balancing limey acids frame and extend the fruit. Excellent value in Albarino.' Wine Advocate 88pts

Burgans Albarino 2005, Retail $11.99 Warehouse $8.99

Pazo de Senorans is owned by Marisol Bueno, one of the pioneers of this young appellation. Through her work, the DO was created in 1988, quality thresholds were introduced, and the region began to receive wider worldwide recognition. Today, the property is one of the few remaining family owned estates, and remains quite small in order to maintain a rigorous level of quality.

Low yielding (25-30 hectoliters per hectare or less than 2 tons/acre) old vines planted in the northern sub-zone of the Salnes appellation. This wine has an amazing texture with flavors of ripe peaches, apricots and honeysuckle balanced by fresh acidity, great length and lemony minerality.

'Bright gold. Explosively aromatic aromas of bright peach and apricot, complicated by honey, chalk and a rich leesy quality. Broad and intensely flavored, with impressive concentration and focus to the peach flavor. Finishes with excellent length. This saw no wood.' International Wine Cellar 91pts.

‘Marisol Bueno is the president of the Rí­as Baixas appellation and the owner of a beautiful estate that is the region's undisputed quality leader.’ Top Spanish wine writer Victor de la Serna

Pazo de Senorans Albarino 2005, Retail $19.99 Warehouse $15.99

One of the most magical settings in Spain, the Priorat lies in the rugged hills of Northeastern Spain in Spanish Catalonia, not far from Barcelona. Although the region has been producing grapes for centuries (the Romans settled on the Tarragona coast more than 2,000 years ago), it did not gain international fame as a world-class winemaking region until the 1990’s. It is now considered one of the best terroirs in the world for the production of wines based around Grenache (Garnacha) and Carignan. The very talented Jordi Vidal is the driving force behind one of the most unique properties in the Priorat region. Made from 100+ year old vines of white Grenache, it exhibits a remote similarity to a top-flight white Chateauneuf du Pape. .

The terroir of the Priorat should be looked at in a Burgundian context, with each of the historical villages having slightly different soils producing different styles of wines. However, the one common theme that draws them all together is the presence of schiste (licorella in Catalan) which helps form these craggy hillsides. The vines are planted on slopes and are often steeply terraced, making for difficult work and extremely low yields. The climate is Mediterranean and the summers are quite warm. Historically, the dry white wines of the Priorat have been heavily oxidized with often high alcohol levels and a monolithic structure. Here Jordi relies on extremely low yields and optimal harvesting times to keep good acidity in the wines before allowing them to fermet with natural yeasts in stainless steel tanks. The key to the white is allowing the white Grenache to rest on its fine lees during the cold winter, a technique that helps to impart a lovely creaminess to the wine.


'Pale gold. Intensely minerally aromas of pear skin and white peach. Tangy and energetic on the palate, the refreshingly bitter pear and apple flavors nicely firmed by juicy acidity. Gains weight and fleshes out on the finish, with the peach note returning. Intriguing stuff.' International Wine Cellar 89pts

Scala dei ‘Les Brugueres’ 2005, Retail $24.99 Warehouse $19.99

Perhaps the most celebrated of Spain’s many wine regions, are the wines of Rioja. Located north of Madrid in the North of Spain, Rioja has been producing wine for centuries. Winemaking standards have greatly increased thanks for a governing body which has imposed strict quality standards on wineries. However, many wineries are shirking the “old” system of classification for a more progressive system that favors earlier release of wines.

'Within Spain, Rioja has for so long been respected as the quality wine region that I think it has led to dangerous complacency - particularly now that so many exciting wines are emerging from elsewhere in Spain. The most impressive rioja producers, many of them relatively small are new outfits such as Allende, Roda and Artadi, tend to be those who are able to grow their own.' Jancis Robinson, M.W.

The Artadi estate was created in 1985 by visionary winemaker, Juan Carlos Lopez de la Calle. His objective was to seek and nurture the concept that Tempranillo, when cultivated at high altitude, low-cropped, and from old vines, produces extraordinarily rich and profound wines. Of the 75 hectares on the estate, about 25 are owned by other farmers and are controlled by Artadi. The team from the estate does the work during the summer and fall in the vineyards and harvests these plots, like the rest of the property, by hand. A very strict vineyard and winery triage is performed. Most of the wines are fermented in stainless steel tanks, with the reserve wines being fermented in large wood vats. Ageing is carried out according to the vintage, the cuvee, and the age of the vines. Artadi is about purity of extracted fruit with almost Burgundian textures. In fact, critics have often compared these wines to the top wines of Chambolle-Musigny and other top appellations of Burgundy. The key to this level of elegance comes from the cold wines of the Pyrennees which blow from the north. This coupled with moderate temperatures tend to make these wines a study in elegance and power.

Orobio is a terrific new project from Artadi is a fresh, fruity wine with a smokey, bacon fat, leathery backdrop to the spicy, very concentrated fruit. Delicious! Dark coloured with an enticing floral bouquet of spices and red berries. Lovely and generous on the palate with no hard edges and a long smooth finish.

Artadi ‘Orobio’ Rioja Tempranillo 2004, Retail $12.99 Warehouse $9.99

Ruby-red. Bright, perfumed nose offers sexy raspberry, strawberry and cherry liqueur aromas accented by subtle notes of fresh rose and exotic spices. Lively and brisk, the with tangy acidity providing focus and cut to the pure red fruit flavors. Really delicious wine, with expansive, sweet raspberry and cherry flavors on the zesty, long finish. ST91

Artadi ‘Vinas de Gain’ Rioja 2004, Retail $24.99 Warehouse $19.99

Let me hit you with some knowledge: 'Tempranillo’s name hints at its viticultural characteristics, temprano being Spanish for early. Tempranillo certainly buds relatively early, generally earlier in Rioja than most red grapes in Bordeaux, but has a longer growing season. The vintage in Rioja can take place well into October, weeks after the picking has stopped in Bordeaux. Spring frost damage to these early buds can be severe in northern Spain. Tempranillo's skins are not especially thick, so the wine is not marked by particularly deep colour, and rot can be a problem, especially in the tight bunches of the newer clones (although compared to most internationally known grape varieties there are not that many clones of Tempranillo available).' Oxford Encyclopedia of Wine.


Do yourself a favor and look at our ‘Wine News’ on the www.winewarehouses.com website for the other Eric Solomon Spanish selections that arrived this week. Next week we will look at Spain’s emerging regions. So it is now time to sit back in your ‘comfy chair’ with a glass of wine and enjoy your Spanish acquisition.

Four on the floor: check out these new world Rieslings

When the mind envisions Riesling, it usually brings one to the steep slopes of the Mosel or the Rhine rivers. Riesling is a great noble variety made famous by the long-lived wines of Germany. In fact, in the 19th century the top Riesling estates in Germany were fetching the same prices as the top Chateaus in Bordeaux. Some of the world’s most striking Rieslings are grown in other various corners of the globe. These new world Riesling wines can produce wines of high acidity and extraction, making a wine that develops in the bottle much like a great red would. Riesling has the ability to produce wines of all sweetness levels and has a particular ability to exhibit the characteristics of the producing soil, as well as exotic floral characters, honey, and spiciness.

So just what is the extraordinarily distinct character of the Riesling grape? Although it is a relatively early ripening grape, where it is planted Reisling rarely produces wines with more than 12 per cent alcohol and is often responsible for wines with just 8 per cent in Germany which is a huge departure in this era of high alcohol wines. That must be why there is not a Mollydooker Riesling? Although Riesling may be low to moderate on the alcohol front, it is high-octane on the flavor spectrum.

Terpenes are the key to Riesling’s arresting aromas as Riesling is superbly aromatic. Its aroma is so sharp and piercing, combined with naturally high acidity, that it can resemble Sauvignon Blanc. Although Sauvignon's aromas are of herbs and green fruits such as green apples and gooseberries, Riesling's are more likely to be of roses, honey, minerals and citrus fruits. Muscat with its unique musky character is another grape that is high in the aromatic terpenes.

Let me hit you with some knowledge: Terpenes are distinctive flavor compounds associated with the floral aromas found in wines made from such varieties as Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Gewurtztraminer and Muscat. They are also found in oak, particularly American oak. Oxford Encyclopedia of Wine

Australia

Grosset is quite simply the finest Riesling producer in Australia. We are featuring the wine from his finest vineyard site, Polish Hills. I had the opportunity to meet Jeffrey Grosset in New York just over a year ago at the Wine Experience during a fabulous lunch overlooking Central Park in the new Time Warner building. I had not had the opportunity to try Jeffrey’s wines previously, but after that lunch Jeffrey had hooked another convert.

The Grosset Polish Hill vineyard is planted at 460 metres above sea level in a U-shaped ridge formation running north from Mount Horrocks in the Clare Valley. The soil is composed of shale, is not particularly fertile, and slightly acidic. The topsoil crust is of clay and shale. The vines are small and have to work hard to draw sustenance from the less generous soil, and berries are quite small which leads to concentration of flavors. Polish Hill produces grapes that make an austere and lean Riesling which reflects the nature of the terrain that Jeffrey Grosset, with his usual attention to geological constraints and possibilities, chose as his spot in the Polish Hill River area.

The Grosset Polish Hill Riesling was first produced in 1981 and is at the peak of its form, and with an established reputation as a wine of extraordinary consistency. This is the finest Riesling I have ever tasted from Australia. Polish Hill remains the jewel in the Grosset crown. With its powerful, pristine characteristics, its subtle floral, citrus and mineral nuances and fine acidity opening out to a long lingering lusciousness, the Polish Hill has become nationally and internationally a pre-eminent Riesling. Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate

'Making Riesling is the purest form of winemaking,' Jeffrey Grosset has said, and his Polish Hill - from a lean, spare even unlikely-looking terrain - has the purity, restraint, and austerity of art, but also its beauty, its resonance, its hidden surprises. Grosset is a perfectionist and the wines have incredible perfume and purity, lime/floral fruit profile balanced by an indelible acidity that cuts across the palate. This wine does much to define the distinctive character of Clare Valley Riesling.

Stuart Pigott, a world authority on Riesling, wrote after a visit to Grosset Wines that riesling wines are ‘dramatic images of the places where they grew and the seasons during which the grapes ripened'. But Grosset's wines, he said, are interfused not only with that sense of place and season, but with something he calls ‘the spirit of Jeff Grosset', a phenomenon that occurs by a means that ‘science has yet to explain'.

All of which helps you to understand how thoroughly deserved have been his many accolades, from Jeffrey's being listed as one of the fifty most influential winemakers in the world in Wine and Spirits in 2005.

Bright scents of peach and spice give this a bold attack, its richness retreating slowly, ending clean with a mouthwatering acidity at the edges. This is remarkably graceful given the flavour concentration and power. Delicious now with fat oysters or fleshy roast fish; Grosset's Rieslings at typically at their best ten years or more from the vintage. 93pts Wine and Spirits magazine

Bright, pale gold. Steely, mineral-driven citrus and orchard fruit aromas, with hints of fresh herbs and green tea. Light in weight but also impressively concentrated, with powerful lime and lemon flavors braced by strong acidity and slate character. This has superb focus and length, finishing on intense notes of citrus pith and minerals. 92pts International Wine Cellar

Despite shy aromatics, this delivers tremendous depth and character, finishing dry, with welcome delicacy and grace. The flavors center on mandarin orange, apricot and warm slate, lingering beautifully on the harmonious finish. Drink now through 2017. Only 380 cases made it to the US. 93pts Wine Spectator Magazine

Grosset ‘Polish Hills’ Riesling 2005, Retail $34.99 Warehouse $27.99

New Zealand

Richardson Riesling ‘Waipara’ 2005

Michelle Richardson is one of the most intense and focused winemakers that you will ever meet. She ran the show for Villa Maria’s winemaking team and garnered three ‘New Zealand winemaker of the year’ awards during her career at Villa. Michelle is now making wine on her own and has sought out some special and unique vineyard sights to produce under her ‘Richardson’ label.

Michelle’s Riesling is from the Waipara Valley in Canterbury. The wine was 100% stainless steel fermented using a selection of a Rhine derivative yeasts. The grapes were 100% handpicked and whole bunch pressed. The free run juice fermented in a stainless steel, temperature controlled tank between 13 – 15 degrees Celsius. The fermentation was stopped with a small amount of residual grape sugar for palate balance and style.

Michelle’s notes on the wine: The unique bouquet projects pineapple and ginger with hints of citrus and floral tones. The front palate is fruit driven and extends to form a well balanced palate that takes the fruit right through to the finish. While the wine appears dry, the slight residual sugar perfectly matches the natural fruit acid and wine body.

Only 112x6pks of this wine made it into the United States. Be the first on your block to try this delicious Riesling.

Richardson ‘Waipara’ Riesling 2005, Retail $29.99 Warehouse $19.99

Washington State

Ch St Michelle Riesling ‘Eroica’ 2005

The estate of Dr. Loosen owns some of the most renowned sites on the Mosel in Wehlen, Urzig and Erden and is acclaimed as one of Germany's most consistent quality producers across a range of styles, from dry to sweet. Ernie Loosen has teamed up with Washington State wine giant Ch St Michelle. This is a fantastic example of a Riesling from the Columbia Valley in Washington State. Ernie Loosen knows how to extract just the right amount of flavor and character out of the Riesling grape. His Eroica will not disappoint.

This seventh vintage of Eroica is made in a decidedly racy style. The wine delivers classic mineral and slate notes and lively, crisp acidity with juicy white peach aromas and flavors. Two new vineyards have been added to the blend for the first time this year that are northwest of the Wahluke Slope in a very cool, elevated site right next to the Gorge Amphitheater near the town of George, Washington.

Tangy style has real finesse, off-dry but balanced with citrusy tartness that shows up the lemon and white grapefruit flavors, finishing with hints of peach and white pepper. Drink now through 2010. 90 points Wine Spectator

Ch St Michelle ‘Eroica’ Riesling 2005, Retail $21.99 Warehouse $16.99


75% New world from Washington State

Bonny Doon ‘Pacific Rim’ Riesling 2005

Randall Graham has always been known for his ‘nutty-punster’ ramblings on his wine labels and on his web site. Brilliantly funny, Randall also has a keen sense of what consumers are looking for as well as an incredible knowledge of the wines of the world. Randall has recently sold his ‘Big House’ brand and has separated the Pacific Rim wines from his Bonny Doon offerings.

The Pacific Rim Riesling is an unusual blending of both the new and the old world. The base of this wine is from Eastern Washington State. This area experiences cool and clear weather in late September and early October which helps fully ripen the Riesling while maintaining its natural acidity. Apparently this character was not enough for Randall as the wine has blended into it 25% Riesling from the Mosel Valley in Germany. Randall says: ‘As brilliant as the Washington grapes are, they are lacking the haunting floral perfume and crushing acidity that occurs in the brilliant wines of the Mosel.’ This is a superb value and will beg you to have some stir-fry with it.

Pacific Rim Riesling 2005, Retail $9.99 Warehouse $7.99


Riesling is the most food friendly wine on the planet. ‘Live a little.’ Try a distinctive Riesling tonight. You’ll be glad you did.

Herr Bloggenheimer

From Cava to Carneros…

So far this blog has not written about a 'grocery store' brand. Not that we don't sell grocery store brands or that we do not like them at The Wine Warehouse, but it is rare that one of these grocery brands truly offers a real value or ties into wines of tremendous character. Let's look at the a few of the wines that exist under the Freixenet umbrella. Freixenet is the largest exporter of Cava in the world. Domestically in Spain they are only #2 as they have always had an eye on and a keen marketing sense for their export markets. The Freixenet brand was born at the beginning of the 20th century when Pedro Ferrer Bosch and his wife Dolores Sala Vivé decided to concentrate on sparkling wines. The company was named after an estate in Penedes, which had been in Pedro Ferrer's family since the 13th century, known as La Freixeneda, meaning a plantation of ash trees. Freixenet in Spain also now owns Segura Viudas , Castellblanch , Conde de Caralt, Canals & Nubiola, and René Barbier. The combined production of these six operations is nearing 100 million bottles per year. Best-known brands are the medium dry Carta Nevada, launched in 1951 and now in a frosted bottle, and Cordon Negro, a brut Cava in its distinct black bottle. Freixenet have taken their interests overseas and are now proprietors of the Gloria Ferrer Sonoma Caves in the Carneros district of California; a 124-acre estate in Mexico where the sparkling brand is called Sala Vivé; and ownership of the Champagne house Henri Abelé. All three of these purchases took place during the 1980s when Frexienet was making a splash worldwide with its innovative packaging and good value offerings.

Let me hit you with some knowledge: The term Cava was adapted by the Spanish in 1970 when they agreed to abandon the use of the potentially misleading term Champana. Unlike any other Spanish DO, the Cava denominacion is not restricted to a single area. However, since Spain joined the EU in 1986, the EU authorities have insisted that Cava should be made from grapes grown in prescribed regions. 95% of all Cava is made in Catalonia but can also come from a list of municipalities in Valencia, Aragon, Navarra, Rioja and the Basque country. Macabeo typically comprises half of a Cava blend with Xarel-lo and Parellada making up the traditional blend. Plantings of the French vine Chardonnay, officially authorized for Cava in 1986, are increasing rapidly. (Oxford Encyclopedia of Wine)

From the Cava designation in Spain, Cordon Negro Brut is made in a dry style, produced from 40% Parellada, 35% Macabeo, and 25% Xarello grapes. An extremely fresh Cava, light and lively with toasty, lemon and cream flavors and a clean finish. We have a killer price on this sparkler that is less than we used to sell it for in 1980. Go back a few blogs and compute the cpi price of this wine at just over two 1980 dollars. I’d say that it is quite a value.

Freixenet Cordon Negro Brut, Retail $8.99 Warehouse $5.99

In 1982 the Ferrer family purchased 250 acres of land in Sonoma’s Carneros wine district where they planted vineyards with the traditional sparkling wine grapes of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. In 1986 their state-of-the-art winery, with Spanish-style architecture opened to the public. The winery now cultivates 385 acres in Carneros and produces a range of sparkling and still wines. A visit to the winery reveals the Old World influences of arches, red-tile rooftops, tapestries and antiques. A tour of the facility with it state-of-the-art man-made caves will unlock the secrets of the classic méthode champenoise process. Of course in Europe and in Cava they have to call this ‘Methode Traditionelle.’

The Sonoma Brut is produced entirely from hand-harvested Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes. Over forty different clonal selections of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are planted. It is this viticultural diversity that Gloria Ferrer feels allows them to consistently produce cuvées with complexity and clear fruit expression. The Brut is dominated by Pinot Noir, a stylistic decision enabling the complex aromatic and palate profile that this red-skinned grape contributes to Brut cuvées.

In the production department the grapes for the sparkling wines are whole cluster pressed to minimize the extraction of bitter components, around one-quarter of the first press is used to add richness and structure to the base wine, twenty different base wines make up the blend for complexity, a proprietary yeast is used for the second fermentation and the wine spends a year and a half on its yeast lees. The second fermentation takes place in the bottle.

"A delicious mouthful of bubbly. Smooth, rich and creamy, with layers of black cherry, vanilla, ginger and a hint of lemon drop. Finishes with a long, refreshing aftertaste with mineral and fruit. Drink now." 90 points, Wine Spectator

Gloria Ferrer Carneros Brut n/v, Retail $17.99 Warehouse $11.99

In Gloria Ferrer’s Blanc de Noirs, just over five percent of the blend is cold-soaked Pinot Noir juice (vin gris) which is blended in to the base wine for color and to add creamy notes to the finish. The rest of the winemaking process is similar to the Gloria Ferrer Brut.

"A delicate style, with fresh rose petal, strawberry and cherry scents that carry over to the palate. Clean and refreshing." 87 points and top value selection, Wine Spectator.

“Bright copper hue. Attractive bouquet of sliced apple, honey and citrus scents. Full, rich flavors of apple, banana and pecan. Lasting fruit impressions with a like of butternut and honey in the finish.”90 points and best value selection, The Wine News.

Gloria Ferrer Blanc de Noirs Brut n/v, Retail $17.99 Warehouse $11.99

On the Gloria Ferrer estate in Carneros, they have eleven soil types and a wide variety of clones (Colmar, Wadenswil, Trefethen, Dijon 115, Martini, UCD 32, Pommard and Jackson) that in combination with the daily fog, cool breezes and wind, produce exceptional Pinot Noir.

The 2004 vintage began with a cold wet spring, which initially delayed vine development. While there were a few significant heat spikes during the summer months, the cooling trend persisted, providing a long hang time and even maturation for the grapes. September arrived with high temperatures, which promoted good color and flavor maturity. This Pinot Noir is 100% estate grown, cold-soaked for three days for color and aromas, only free-run juice was used, was punched down and pumped over depending on the fruit character of the cuvee, aged in 100% French barrels of which 1/3 were new. The wine was unfined, but filtered.

There are flavors of ripe cherry and berry fruit with hints of smoke, bacon and earth that lead to long silky finish on this Pinot Noir. This Pinot is 'the bomb' at a very friendly price.

Gloria Ferrer ‘Carneros’ Pinot Noir 2004, Retail $29.99 Warehouse $17.99

Salute,

Senor Bloggy

'Central' Pinot; those who know, are 'in the know.'

"Many believe this is where the Pinot grail is to be found" (Jancis Robinson - Wine Atlas of the World)

“This is God’s Country when it comes to Pinot Noir.” (James Halliday in Panorama 2000)

“Central Otago, Git’ r’ done.” (Larry ‘the Cable Guy’ 2006)


I hate to come off like a chamber of commerce mouthpiece. Here it goes anyway. Ever picture a place as beautiful as Aspen or Vail with the ability to grow world class Pinot Noir? Picture the clean green land of New Zealand. Enter Central Otago, New Zealand's most inland region. Central Otago, affectionately called "Central" by those that know it well, covers an area of 10,000 km and has fewer than 16,000 permanent residents. “Central” is the home of the first ‘bungee jump’ and the land of fiords. “Central” is also NZ’s hottest, coldest and driest region. Located on a fragmented schist plateau in a semi-desert environment, “Central” is a living museum, scattered with historic features preserved by a dry climate. This peaceful, powerful place has barely changed over centuries. With so much to discover, “Central” is fast becoming one of New Zealand's leading tourist destinations. If you enjoy beautiful landscapes, summer sunshine, a bountiful grape harvest in the fall and skiing in the winter, “Central” might just be your place.

“There are no traffic lights or metered parking anywhere in Central Otago. Air pollution is not an issue. Despite the low population density, our facilities will match those of any other region in the country. We have excellent schools and medical services. Most of the major retail chains are represented and there is a thriving, and growing, cafe and art scene. The district abounds in wineries and is the source of a number of world-renowned wines, especially Pinot Noir, the local specialty.” Central Otago’s Mayor McPherson.


My fondest memories of “Central” are many. My first trip was in March of 2000. The first memory was having the stewardess on the flight from Auckland to Queenstown ask my then 6 year old whether he was ready to go visit the pilots in the cockpit. This was in 2000 remember. We had stunning views overlooking Mount Cook while discussing NZ wines with the pilots. The next memory was learning to drive on the wrong side of the road. The bellman at Millbrook golf resort told me the key to driving in New Zealand; remember to keep your 'passenger in the ditch.' Funny enough, it made sense. The last and most poignant memory to this blog were the wines that evening; Gibbston Valley and Felton Road Pinot Noirs. Wow! There is nothing better than partaking in a world-class wine within kilometres of where its grapes were grown. Central Otago is officially on the world-class wine map. “Central” to me is very Oregonian in its style with many of its wines being quite favourably priced.

The Central Otago Pinot Noir Celebration last January was a blast. I was picked up by Amisfield winemaker Jeff Sinnott and whisked off to a blind tasting of 100 Pinot Noirs from around the country. This was arranged by the wines of New Zealand and shows the country's unity. What other regional wine festival would allow a tasting of their competitors wines at their venue? The tasting was arranged in a giant horseshoe and was arranged by region with the wines being in numbered brown paper bags. Felton Road winmaker Blair Walter looked after the tasting and was another incredible host chauffeuring around many a guest. After a free evening there was a bus that took us to a custom crush facility the next morning for a tasting of many of the 'Central' wineries. The 04 releases and 05 barrel samples were shown. The 04's are good but the 05's are stunning. After the tasting, the bus took us to Mt Difficulty for lunch and more tasting. Dinner that evening was a casual affair under a tent on the lake in the center of Queenstown. The next morning there were a few seminars with Allen Meadows of Burghound. The tasting was of the 2002 Burgundy wines of Jean Jacques Confuron. Ted Lemon of Littorai of Sonoma consults in Central Otago was part of the Burgundy panel and also showed his own wines. Lunch was on the lake and I was off to Marlborough the next day. Wineries that stood out at the event were Richardson, Rockburn, Olssen's, Felton Road, Amisfield and Akarua.


Let me hit you with some knowledge: Central Otago is the southern-most grape-growing region in the world located at latitude 45º south (similar to both Oregon’s Willamette Valley, U.S.A., and Burgundy in France). The first wine-grapes were planted in Central Otago in 1864. Despite the district’s potential as a wine growing area being recognized by French and Australian viticulturists from the 1860’s onwards, wine-grapes were not commercially grown again in Central Otago for more than a century. Modern day wine growing began in 1972 and shortly followed in 1975 with experimental plantings at Rippon Vineyard, Lake Wanaka. The first commercial release of a Pinot Noir from Central Otago, the regions flagship variety, was the 1987 vintage from pioneer Alan Brady at the Gibbston Valley winery.


Rockburn, Central Otago. As I was boarding a plane to go to Melbourne, Australia via Auckland, New Zealand from Seoul, Korea after taking off from Washington Dulles……..thank you Delta frequent flyer miles……I had received an e-mail on my blackberry from Chris James of Rockburn. Chris found out that I was traveling to the Central Otago Pinot Noir Fest after the MW seminar in Melbourne and wanted me to taste his wines. Rockburn’s wines are first class and the rest is history. Wine Warehouse is the first to bring them into Florida.

Rockburn’s vineyards are bounded on the west by mountains on whose seaward slopes are rain forests, which receive 5000mm of rain a year. Heavy frosts are common throughout winter and frost can occur at any time between March and November. These vines are susceptible to frost in the growing season and as a result most vineyards are on warm north-facing slopes which promote cold-air drainage. On flatter sites wind machines, water sprinklers and misting systems or other frost protection measures are adopted. To the east is a barren, moon-like landscape that receives less than 25mm of rain a year. Situated between these extremes are Rockburn’s vineyards that produce not only Pinot Noir of stunning quality (gold medals at New Zealand Wine Society Royal Easter Wine Show, Bragato Awards, Air New Zealand,and Winestate Wine of the Year) , but also medal winning Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris , Riesling and Gewutztraminer.

In early 2006 Rockburn opened their winery and tasting facility in Cromwell to handle the 06 vintage. The new winemaker is Malcolm Francis who was previously with Felton Road. Prior to this vintage the wine was custom crushed by one of ‘Central’s’ star winemakers, Rudi Schultz, the dynamic Austrian from Quartz Reef vineyard.

In “Central” it has become apparent that like Burgundy there are distinct 'appellations' within the region. The Gibbston Valley tends to produce Pinot Noir with beautiful perfume, reminiscent of violets, and earthy, forest floor sensations on the palate. The Lowburn- Bannockburn area Pinot Noir tends to produce wines with darker color with fuller-bodied and sweeter fruit. For this reason to fully exploit the potential of the region it is a distinct advantage to have vineyards in different 'appellations'. Rockburn grows its Pinot Noir from its own Gibbston Valley and Lowburn fruit.


Some notes on Rockburn's 2003 Pinot Noir:

Jancis Robinson, M.W. 18/20 – Vibrant, deep, intense nose. Extremely full and fruity start with some fine, grainy tannin on the finish and very good acidity. Round and slightly herbal.

93pts Gold Medal - June 2005 Home & Entertaining Magazine – “It’s a mix of black cherry, plum, and dried spice flavours with a silken texture and lingering finish. A minor fruit bomb with appealing sappy complexity.” Bob Campbell, M.W.

90pts July 2005 Wine Spectator “Tangy and rich, with lovely, ripe strawberry and blackberry flavors supported by zingy acidity, all of it lasting nicely on the generous finish.” Harvey Steinman

Gold Medal – New Zealand International Wine Show 2005.

Rockburn ‘Central Otago’ Pinot Noir 2003, Retail $29.99 Warehouse $21.99

Other NZ Pinots to look out for:

Richardson ‘Central Otago’ Pinot Noir 2004, Retail $49.99 Warehouse $39.99
look for the 05 to be here in March.



Felton Road ‘Central Otago’ Pinot Noir 2004, Retail $44.99 Warehouse $34.99



Vidal Marlborough Pinot Noir 2004, Retail $29.99 Warehouse $21.99

Villa Maria ‘Cellar Select’ Marlborough Pinot Noir 2005, Retail $29.99 Warehouse $ 21.99

Villa Maria ‘ Private Bin’ Marlborough Pinot Noir 2005, Retail $21.99 Warehouse $17.99

Who needs resveratrol tablets anyway? Make mine a Pinot Noir please.

Bloggy new year.

Shopping at the Wine Warehouse in 2006. These are the best of times. Just ask the CPI.

1979. The year that our founder and CEO, Tom Dorn, opened the first Wine Warehouse in Gainesville. As this was the year after the release of the movie 'Animal House,' many people would come up to Tom and ask him whether he realized that he looked like John Belushi. Tom had been the assistant manager at Albertson’s Liquor store and was startled at the premium wines that they were able to sell. The store that he worked at was not the typical Albertson’s Liquor store as it sold an amazing amount of classified growth Bordeaux Chateaus, Estate bottle German wines, and for the time period an enormous amount of French Champagne. Tom’s vision was to take wine to this market without all of the beaurocracy of a large grocery chain. This is how we now have 19 Wine Warehouses in Florida. Tom recalled a 100 case stack of Veuve Clicquot that caused a stir. At the time LVMH was not the brand’s owner and Clicquot was imported by Jack Daniels’ owner, Brown Forman. That 100 case display was said to be the largest Clicquot display in the country. Boy, have fashions changed. The most interesting thing about the year 1979 display was the price that the wines were sold at. Clicquot Brut NV was $19.99. Using the handy-dandy CPI calculator, that $19.99 comes to $55.48 in 2006 dollars. Wine Warehouse now sells Veuve Clicquot Brut NV at $34.99 coming in at just under 43% of the CPI increase. For wine drinkers, these are the best of times.


Let me hit you with some knowledge: The CPI is an inflationary indicator that measures the change in the cost of a fixed basket of products and services, including housing, electricity, food, and transportation. The CPI is also called the cost of living index and is published monthly.

So what has changed in the US wine market since our first store opened in 1979? After the plateau of the middle 1970s, U.S. wine consumption and production picked up in the late 1970s and 1980s. But, that growth was not sustained, and consumption peaked in the middle 1980s at almost 9.20 liters per capita, declining gradually for a decade before moving back up again. This is likely due to the wine cooler consumption being counted towards per capita wine consumption. Anyone remember California Cooler and Bartles and James? Per capita consumption had only reached 7.7 liters per capita again by the end of the 20th Century. People have changed their consumption habits though. Let’s take a look at today’s market in the US.

Sales in the U.S. of wine grew five percent in 2005 to an estimated 703 million gallons valued at $26 billion at retail. Of the total, table wine amounted to 619 million gallons; dessert wine was 53 million gallons; champagne and sparkling wine, 30 million gallons. I’d say that that’s a bunch of gallons.

How are we drinking differently now than we were in 1979? In terms of sparkling wines, consumption has gone down but people are drinking better quality. In 1980 we consumed 12.5 million cases of fizz in the US and last year that number is just above 12 million cases. The demographics have changed as imported sparkling has gone from 16% of the market to 40% of the sparkling market. The Andre’s of the world have declined and French Champagne has gained market share. In still wines we have the ’60 Minutes phenomenon.’ Red wine consumption has gone from 17% of the market in 1991 to 42% in 2005. White wine has declined slightly from 49% to 41% and Rose/Blush wines have gone from 34% of the market to 17%.

Are we really drinking ‘better’ now? This is a hard question to answer without an explanation of what is ‘better?’ Is better used in terms of higher priced, better quality, or better price to quality ratios? Super premium wines (over $14) are now 12% of the market in volume and 35% of the market in value. Wines over $7 per 750ml are 35% of the volume and are 2/3’s of the value of the US wine market. That just means that 2/3’s of the volume and 1/3 of the value will be under $7.

What do you get for under $7 these days? We have stores that feature a $7 and under section. You would be amazed at the quality wines that fall into this area. One of the crazier deals that we have received lately is on Turner Road. These are fresh wines from the world’s largest wine company, Constellation. The Cabernet has a Paso Robles appellation and there is a Central Coast Chardonnay and a Pinot Grigio. Typically found at $8-9, we have them all at $4.99 ($1.80 in 1979 dollars) with a mail in $30 per case rebate (one per household). There was nothing like this at under $2 back in 1979. Bring on the CPI!

Some end of the year specials:

Turner Road Chardonnay 2005, Retail $8.99 Warehouse $4.99
Turner Road Cabernet Sauvignon 2004, Retail $8.99 Warehouse $4.99
Turner Road Pinot Grigio 2005, Retail $8.99 Warehouse $4.99

Columbia Crest ‘Two Vines’ Merlot, Retail $7.99 Warehouse $4.99
Columbia Crest ‘Two Vine’ Chardonnay, Retail $7.99 Warehouse $4.99

Coppola Bianco ‘Pinot Grigio,’ Retail $9.99 Warehouse $5.99
Coppola Rosso, Retail $9.99 Warehouse $5.99

Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais Village 2005, Retail $7.99 Warehouse $5.99

Geyser Peak Sauvignon Blanc, Retail $10.99 Warehouse $5.95
Geyser Peak Cabernet Sauvignon ‘Alexander Valley,’ Retail $14.99 Warehouse $9.99

And on the Champagne front………………………

Mumm’s Cordon Rouge Brut n/v, Retail $39.99 Warehouse $26.99
Mumm’s Carte Classique Extra Dry n/v, Retail $29.99 Warehouse $24.99
Mumm’s Napa Brut Prestige, Retail $16.99 Warehouse $13.99

Moet et Chandon Brut Rose n/v, Retail $44.99 Warehouse $39.99
Moet et Chandon ‘White Star’ Extra Dry n/v, Retail $34.99 Warehouse $25.99
Moet et Chandon Nectar Imperial, Retail $39.99 Warehouse $29.99

Perrier Jouet Grand Brut n/v, Retail $39.99 Warehouse $28.99

Pol Roger Brut n/v, Retail $47.99 Warehouse $26.99

Veuve Clicquot Brut n/v, Retail $39.99 Warehouse $34.99
Veuve Clicquot Brut Rose n/v, Retail $59.99 Warehouse $49.99
Veuve Clicquot La Grand Dame 1996, Retail $149.99 Warehouse $109.99

And yes, we do have grower Champagnes:

Check out the many organic and biodynamically farmed producers we have such as:

J Lassale
Tarlant
Bedel
Bruno Michel

Franck Pascal

When I have a chance to work the stores, more and more people are asking if we have grower Champagnes. This is an evolutionary step in Champagne consumption and is highly recommended.

As we are coming to the close of 2006, we would like to thank ‘you’ our customers for your continued patronage. There now seems to be more and more wine concepts opening daily. When you have seen the others we know that you will realize the value that we at the Wine Warehouse bring to the market. This is why we feel that you are really the most tuned-in wine consumers on the planet.

We hope you have a safe and Happy New Year.

Cheers…………..