Lateral blogging from Normandy….

I know that this is officially a wine blog, but we are going to do a little lateral blogging today and venture into the land of cider. Why is fermented fruit not considered a wine? The purist’s definition for wine is that ‘wine is an alcoholic beverage obtained from the fermentation of the juice of freshly gathered grapes.’ Let’s recognize that top quality cider is not just for beer drinkers anymore. The ciders we are featuring display finesse and elegance as well as most grape wines will.

Here in the US and in parts of Canada, where the term "cider" almost exclusively refers to non-alcoholic juice or apple cider as we use the phrase hard cider to denote the fermented version. Cider varies in alcoholic content from less than 3% in Cidre Doux to a maximum of around 8%, and appears golden yellow and is sometimes cloudy.

The UK has the highest per capita consumption as well as the largest cider producing companies in the world. The drink is also popular and traditional in Normandy and Brittany in France. Cider is now making a resurgence in both Europe and here in the U S of A.

Conventional apple cider has a relatively high concentration of phenolics and antioxidants which may be helpful for preventing heart disease, cancer, and other ailments. This is, in part, because apples themselves have a decent concentration of phenolics in them to begin with. Cider can also be very acidic and contain high sugar levels.

Cider apples are a group of apple cultivars grown for their use in cider production. Cider apples are grouped into four main types according to the nature of their flavor components. ‘Sweets’ contain high sugar levels which encourage fermentation and raise the final alcohol levels. This group is low in tannins and acidity. ‘Sharps’ are high in acidity and add 'bite' to the cider. They tend to be low in sugar content and have little tannin. ‘Bittersweets’ are high in sugar but also contain raised levels of tannin which tastes bitter and is astringent. A certain amount of bitterness is expected in all but the sweetest ciders. ‘Bittersharps’ are high in both tannins and fruit acids. Although apples grown for consumption are suitable for cider making, many cider-makers prefer to use a mix of eating and cider apples. There are many hundreds of varieties of cultivars developed specifically for cidermaking.

Cider production methods begin once the fruit is gathered from the trees. The fruit is then "scratted" or ground down into what is called "pomace" or "pommage". Historically the scratting was done using pressing stones with circular troughs, or by a cider mill. Cider mills were traditionally driven by the hand, water-mill, or horse-power. Today, most mills are likely to be powered by electricity. The pulp is then transferred to the cider "press", where the pommage is pressed and formed by pressure into a kind of cake, which is called the "cheese".

Traditionally the method for squeezing the juice from the cheese involves placing clear, sweet straw or hair cloths between the layers of pomace. This will usually alternate with slatted ash-wood racks, until there is a pile of ten or twelve layers. It is important to minimise the time that the pomace is exposed to air in order to keep oxidation to a minimum. The cheese needs to be constructed evenly, or the whole pile slithers onto the floor.

This pile is then subjected to different degrees of pressure in succession, until all the 'must' or juice is squeezed from the pomage. This juice, after being strained in a coarse hair-sieve, is then put into either open vats or closed casks. The pressed pulp is given to farm animals as winter feed, composted or discarded, or used to make liqueurs.

Fermentation is best effected at a temperature of 40 to 60 °F. This is low for most types of fermentation, but works for cider as it leads to slower fermentation with less loss of delicate aromas. Shortly before the fermentation consumes all the sugar, the liquor is "racked" into new vats. This leaves dead yeast cells and other undesirable material at the bottom of the old vat. Care is taken to fill the vat completely and eliminate unwanted oxygen which can take away from the primary fruit aromas of the cider. The remaining available sugar is fermented and generates a small amount of carbon dioxide that helps to prevent air seeping in. This also creates a certain amount of sparkle, and sometimes extra sugar, such as white cane sugar, is added at this stage for this purpose and also to raise the alcohol level. Racking is sometimes repeated if the liquor remains too cloudy.

Let me hit you with some knowledge: A pear is a tree of the genuus Pyrus and the juicy fruit of that tree, edible in some species. The English word pear is probably from Common West Germanic pera, probably a loanword of Vulgar Latin pira, the plural of pirum, which is itself of unknown origin. The place name Perry can indicate the historical presence of pear trees.

We will be looking specifically at French Cider (cidre in French.) French cidre is an alcoholic drink that is produced predominantly in Normandy and in Brittany. Higher quality cider is sold in Champagne-style bottles (cidre bouché), and while much of cidre is sold in corked bottles, some screw-top bottles exist. Until the mid-20th century, cidre was the second most-consumed drink in France (after wine) but an increase in the popularity of beer displaced cider's market share outside traditional cider-producing regions. In restaurants in Brittany, cider is sometimes served in traditional ceramic bowls (or wide cups) rather than glasses. The ‘kir normand’ is a cocktail aperitif made with cider and cassis, rather than white wine and cassis for the traditional kir.

Normandy is steeped in tradition. Normandy is home to some of the world’s most beloved culinary treasures based upon the two greatest raw materials here; apples and cream. The region is the home of ‘Camembert’ as well as some other local cheeses that are made from the abundance of milk and cream. Normandy is also Calvados country, the famous apple digestif. Now we move onto the cidre. Eric Bordelet’s cidres originate from the Pays d’Auge which is different from the rest of Norman cider in that it has its own appellation with tightly controlled laws for its production. There are limits on the varieties of apples used and the villages in which they can be grown. The laws are based on the AOC system that controls wine production, and although most wineries don’t allow cows to wander through the vines like they do through orchards, much of the rest is the same.

Our featured cidre producer was formerly the sommelier at Arpege, which is one of Paris’ most famous Michelin 3-star restaurants. Eric Bordelet was encouraged by his good friend Didier Dageneau to pursue his dream of making world-class cidre in his native Normandy. Of course if one is friends with Didier Dageneau, it is logical to presume that the path of Monsieur Dageneau’s biodynamic farming methods will be followed as well. By moving back to his family’s farm, Eric was blessed with some of the most exquisite raw material he could have ever wanted. There are some 100 varieties of apples on the farm and a small orchard of pear trees that was planted around the year 1700. The entire production is farmed without chemicals and the property was certified organic in 2005. These ciders are exquisite drinks, handcrafted and as authentic a beverage as you will ever find. WW of course ships these in refrigerated containers to maintain these cider’s delicacy and fresh characters.

As stated earlier, higher quality cider is sold in Champagne-style bottles (cidre bouché)……..all the cidres below are presented in these Champagne style bottles.

Sidre Doux

From young apple trees, this cider is fermented from December until April. Sidre doux is produced from up to 100 different varieties of apples. Fresh, appley aromas with hints of wood, almonds, and vanilla. Doux in French refers to rich character of sweetness. This cidre is indeed off dry and really easy to consume. Produced using Biodynamic methods.

Eric Bordelet Sidre Doux, Retail $14.99 Warehouse $11.99

Sydre Argelette

19 different varieties of apples (40% bitter, 40% sweet, 20% high acid) make up this benchmark in apple cider from Normandy. “Argelette” is the old Norman word for a plot of land that was so stony that the apple trees could barely survive, producing tiny apples with wild “sauvage” aromas and flavors. Earthy and complex. Made from 19 varieties of apples, ‘Argelette’ is the old Norman word for a plot of land that was so stony that the apple trees could barely survive, producing tiny apples with “sauvage” aromas and flavors. Produced using Biodynamic methods.

Eric Bordelet Sydre Argelette, Retail $18.99 Warehouse $15.99

Poire authentique

20 different varieties of pears are harvested through mid-December for this stunner. Poire authentique displays a very high acidity and clean mouth cut. On the palate one finds flavors of pear, honey, and even fresh cut apples. This cidre is medium sweet with a clean, crisp finish. Produced using Biodynamic methods.

Eric Bordelet Poire Authentique, Retail $15.99 Warehouse $12.99

Poire Granit

Poire Granit is produced from tiny pears grown on 300 year old pear trees that stretch some 20 meters high. These trees have never seen a drop of agro-chemicals. Poire granit is complex and structured like a fine champagne, yet exhibits a fine delicacy of pristine fruit flavors. A sumptuous revelation of purity and character, the palate reveals delicate, dry pear flavors lifted by tiny and airy bubbles that finish with a dancing honeyed undertone. Produced using Biodynamic methods.

Eric Bordelet Poire Granit, Retail$24.99 Warehouse $19.99

Chilled sparkling cider on a warm summer day………..now that’s chillin!

Really; it’s ok now to be seen with a glass of Rose in your hand

Rosés are wines that have colors which fall somewhere between a red and white wine. Rose wines are suddenly the rage in the UK and this style of wine is making its way on to our shores in droves. One would think that by living in Florida that the rose style of wine would already be on our radar screens. Florida’s Mediterranean-like summer climate makes a nicely flavored and dry Rosé wine perfectly appealing for meal-time.

Historically, rosé wines have been made by a number of different methods, but today two methods are most used. The most common rose production technique is to have the skins and juice to macerate just after crushing for a short period of time until the desired rose hue is achieved. The red Grenache grape has been traditionally used for many roses largely because of its relative lack of anthocyanins or color compounds. For Grenache, a maceration of eight to 12 hours is common. Highly pigmented grape varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon may need less contact time, while very lightly colored grapes may need a full day or two of maceration.

The second method common method of making rosé would be to blend in a small amount of finished red wine into a finished white wine. While a pink colored wine can be achieved by this process, the hue and flavor of such a wine are quite different from those of a wine made by short-term maceration. Champagne is one of the few controlled appellations in which the blending method of rosé wine-making is sanctioned. Rosé champagne is more often made by blending than by maceration. A vin gris or blush wine is made as above but with no maceration. Both tend to be paler than most rosés.

Provence is probably the region most famous for its Rosé wines. It’s not uncommon for Provencal Rosés to fetch a higher price than their red wines. Fantastic Rosés can be found in the southern Rhone in particular with the appellation of Tavel which specializes in Rosé wines. In the Languedoc, Roses are more common than white wines. Moving north, lighter versions of Rosé can be found in the Loire valley from the ultra quaffable and slightly sweet Rose D’Anjou to the very serious and classy Sancerre Rosé which is made from Pinot Noir grapes.

The Southern Rhone’s most famous appellation for Rosé is Tavel. Nine varieties are allowed in the appellation and Chateau de Trinquevedel uses all nine in their Tavel Rosé. The grapes in order of importance are Grenache, Cinsault, Clairette, Carignan, Syrah, Mourvedre, Bourbelenc, Grenache Blanc and Calitor. Tavels have a friendly cassis and raspberry entry on the palate and tend to finish with a stony and minerally dry finish that is a fabulous foil for the palate to be refreshed after a bite of food.

Chateau de Trinquevedel Tavel Rosé 2006, Retail $15.99 Warehouse $12.99

From Provence, we have received in the latest vintage of Chateau Paradis. Paradis takes its grapes from near the Luberon and is predominantly made from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes with some Grenache and then a smattering of Sauvignon Blanc added in for a zesty character. This is classic Provence Rose displaying a pale salmon color, a beautiful delicacy of flavor with a long and intriguing red fruit finish.

Chateau Paradis Provence Rosé 2006, Retail $16.99 Warehouse $13.99

In the Languedoc region of France, Jean Orliac is considered the “father” of the Pic St. Loup. As one of the original founders of the wine-growing region, Jean has fought for lower yields in the zone and pressed for full AOC status based on the particular microclimate in the area that is so unique to the tiny corner of the Languedoc. This estate continues to be a quality leader and the benchmark property of this pristine setting of an appellation.

Jean Orliac’s L’Hortus Rosé de Saignee is produced from 50% Syrah, 40% Grenache and 10% Mourvedre grapes. The wine undergoes maceration on the skins for up to three days and then the rosé juice is bled from these tanks hence the word ‘saignee’ which in French means ‘to bleed.’ The juice taken out of the tanks increases the skin to juice ratio of the remaining wine and will add structure and intensity to the red wine to be made.

L’Hortus Coteaux de Languedoc Rosé Saignee 2006, Retail $12.99 Warehouse $10.99

Neighboring L’Hortus in the Coteaux de Languedoc we find Chateau de Lascaux. Lascaux is located between Montpellier and Nimes and has hillside exposures and a Mediterranean influence. They believe that their stony-limestone based soils contribute to their wins finesse and complexity. Their Rosé is a Saignee of 50% Grenache and 50% Syrah. Flavors of cassis and strawberry lead to a nice dry and minerally finish.

Chateau de Lascaux Coteau de Languedoc Rosé 2006, Retail $12.99 Warehouse $10.99

The third Coteaux de Languedoc Rosé wine is from Chateau St Martin de la Garrigue. Last year during our ‘Return to France’ tasting tour, winemaker and general manager Jean-Claude Zabalia poured his St Martin wines at four of our WW stores. Jean-Claude’s rose consists of 50% Cinsault, 30% Syrah and 20% Grenache Noir. Bursting with red fruits, this rose has a nice weight to it combining with a long dry strawberry and cassis flavored finish.

Ch St Martin de la Garrigue ‘Coteaux de Languedoc’ Rosé 2006, Retail $12.99 Warehouse $9.99

Spain also takes its pink wines seriously. There are two categories of Spanish Rosé; rosado which is light pink and clarete which ranges from darker pink to light red.

Bodegas del Rosario is located in the town of Bullas, 50 miles from the Mediterranean coast. Bullas sits 600 meters above sea level in the foothills of the Sistema Ibérico, the southernmost mountain range in Spain. Bullas, as a town and D.O. designation, enjoys the fame of having the highest Monastrell vineyards located 600 to 900 meters above sea level. It is not unusual to see a touch of snow in the vineyards during the winter. Modern winemaking methods are employed such as earlier than traditional picking, shorter oak-aging of the wine with temperature controlled fermentations that emphasize primary fruit characters and thus elevating the wines of this region.

The town has centuries of winemaking history. The best-adapted grape to this region is Monastrell, accounting for 80% of the appellation's 5,500 hectares. Due to the altitude of the vineyards, this D.O. experiences some of the largest temperature fluctuations of the Spanish Mediterranean regions. Because of the cool nights, the Lorca Monastrell Rosé is extremely fresh with just enough vibrant acidity to reign in the massive strawberry scented juice. This wine is completely refreshing, yet finishes dry.

Lorca Monastrell Rosado 2006, Retail $9.99 Warehouse $7.99

And for those of you who are ‘fizz’ fans…….

From Champagne:

Lasalle Brut Rosé, Retail 49.99 Warehouse $39.99

Moet et Chandon Brut Imperial Rosé, Retail $44.99 Warehouse $39.99

Veuve Clicquot Brut Rosé, Retail $59.99 Warehouse $49.99

And from the Savoie:

Bugey Cerdon Rosé, Retail $19.99 Warehouse $15.99

Although a rose is a rose, a rosé wine is best when it is shipped refrigerated to safeguard its delicate fruit flavors. Rosé is also best when consumed in the first 18 months of its existence. These wines fit the above criteria. Even though it costs us more to ship this way, you’ll still be buying them at the lowest prices in the state. It’s what we do……..

On the Aragon trail.....

Once a powerful kingdom whose sphere of influence stretched from the Eastern Mediterranean coastal region of Spain to as far as Naples and Sicily in the east. Aragón is now one of Spain’s 17 autonomous regions. The wines of Aragón have traditionally been quite heady with natural alcohol levels reaching levels as high as 17 or 18 per cent. The red wines are made predominantly from the Garnacha (or Grenache) grape, which had traditionally been sold in bulk for blending. Two DO's in particular are helping to raise the profile of Aragónese wines; Carinena, and Calatayud. These DO's are starting to benefit from investments in modern wine-making technology, which is revolutionizing the style of modern-day Garnacha. Throughout much of Aragón, large co-operatives continue to dominate production, buying in grapes from the small vineyard holders who would are mostly unable to do the marketing to get their wines to your table.

The D.O. of Cariñena is one of the oldest recognized appellations of Spain. Created in 1932, the D.O. has a long history of winemaking. During Roman times, the wines were mixed with honey before drinking, and during the Middle Ages, there are records of tremendous vine plantings in the zone. It is located in the province of Zaragoza, roughly halfway between Madrid and Barcelona.

Cariñena benefits from a continental climate, meaning very warm summers and much colder winters than found along the coast. Although there are large differences in altitude in the D.O., most of the best production is grown on the undulating hills in the central part of the zone, on red soil with a large amount of small stones and gravel. As such, the vineyards tend to be extremely well aerated. These rich and well drained soils combine with the warm summer temperatures assist the vines in producing some very intense grapes.

Although the DO of Cariñena has given its name to the Cariñena grape, the most important varieties are the red Garnacha which makes up 55% of vineyard plantings - used in both red and rose wines - and the white Viura comprises 20%. Tempranillo now constitutes 15% of the vineyard plantings and is growing, as barrel ageing or ‘crianza’ styles increase for red wines.
The first winery we will look at is Bodegas Pablo in Cariñena. The origin of the Pablo winery dates back to the XVIII century. Some of the most valuable assets of the Pablo winery are their vineyards that have a range of vines that average 30 years of age with some reaching up to 100 years old. The Pablo family has always been conscious of the local clones and has kept alive the indigenous grapes, mostly Garnacha and the unique Vidadillo grape which can be found blended into the Garnacha del Terreno. Viñedos y Bodegas Pablo owns 60 hectares or around 150 acres of vines.

When we first tasted the wines from their importer Frontier Imports, the Pablo wines were the first of the group to make us stand up and take notice. The Wine Advocate gave the Pablo wines Kudos in every review. That’s muchos kudos, I’d say.

'Vinedos y Bodegas Pablo is a family-owned estate, founded in 1760, emphasizing the use of indigenous varietals and biodynamic farming. This is an impressive portfolio from top to bottom.' The Wine Advocate


2001 Gran Viu Seleccion, a blend of 40% Garnacha, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Tempranillo, and 5% Syrah. It spent 12 months in used French and American oak and was bottled unfiltered. Purple in color and already emitting complex aromatics after 5 years in bottle, there are expressive scents of spice box, forest floor, earth, meat, and blue fruits. Medium to full-bodied, the wine has layers of ripe, concentrated fruit, supple tannins, and superb balance straight through to the 45-second finish. Drink this superb effort over the next decade. It is also an excellent value. Kudos to the Pablo family! 92 points Wine Advocate

Gran Viu Seleccion 2001, Retail $29.99 Warehouse $21.99

This next wine should have received a higher score. Sometimes a reviewer cannot get past the vintage on the label. There ends up being a glass ceiling pertaining to the score on a lesser-than-greatly perceived vintage. This wine has an amazing amount of dry extract and is stunning. Garnacha del Terreno is a cult wine in the making.

The 2002 Gran Viu Garnacha del Terreno is an outstanding effort in a difficult vintage. Aged 22 months in one-year-old French oak and bottled unfiltered, this full-bodied, showy, purple-colored wine offers fragrant aromas of kirsch, vanilla bean, and blueberry. This is followed by intense, layered cherry and blueberry fruit nicely concealing the moderate but silky tannins. The finish is long and pure. Kudos to the Pablo family! 91 points Wine Advocate

Gran Viu Garnacha del Terreno 2002, Retail $49.99 Warehouse $34.99

This next Pablo wine is a new one from Menguante and is a brilliant substitute for the often sold out Las Rocas old vines cuvee. The Garnacha Seleccion is deep, bright and is even better on day two.

The 2004 Menguante Garnacha Seleccion raises the bar a bit from the green label. It spent 8 months in a mixture of used French and American oak. Dark ruby in color, it is a bit more sophisticated than the two previous wines with its complex nose of vanilla, smoke, cedar, red currants and kirsch. It also offers more structure with ripe tannins nicely concealed by generous quantities of red and blue fruits. There is very good concentration and depth through to the pure finish. Give this outstanding wine several years in bottle for further evolution and drink it over the following 6-8 years. Kudos to the Pablo family! 91 points Wine Advocate

Menguante Garnacha Seleccion 2004, Retail $17.99 Warehouse $14.99

The unoaked 2005 Menguante Garnacha is produced from 80-year-old vines. Purple in color, it exhibits a fragrant nose of kirsch and blueberry. Medium-bodied, this wine is packed with ripe fruit and layers of flavor all the way through to the finish. This awesome value can be likened to a Cotes du Rhone on steroids. Kudos to the Pablo family! 90 points Wine Advocate

Menguante Garnacha 2005, Retail $9.99 Warehouse $7.99

Another find from Cariñena is Bodegas Victoria. Bodegas Victoria is a project of Juan Manuel Segura, the winery proprietor, and Miguel Angel de Gregorio, owner-winemaker of the highly regarded Rioja estate, Finca Allende. We have two wines from Bodegas Victoria, Pardina and Dominio de Longaz. The winery is ultra-modern where no stone is left unturned in an effort to produce top quality wines.

Victoria’s Pardina wine is produced exclusively from estate grown fruit. The grapes are night harvested for freshness, macerated for 18 days on the grape skins for extraction and then aged in French Allier oak casks for 4 months. The thrust of the winery is to combine tradition and experience while utilizing the most advanced technology in order to produce extraordinary wines. Pardina is produced from 70% Tempranillo, 20% Syrah and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon grapes.

Purple-colored, it offers an attractive perfume of spice box, smoke, black currant and blackberry liqueur. Ripe and supple on the palate, it has enough structure to evolve for several years. This excellent value has a pure, 30 second finish. Drink it over the next 4-6 years. 89 points Wine Advocate

Bodegas Victoria Pardina 2005, Retail $11.99 Warehouse $9.99

The Dominio de Longaz is also produced exclusively from estate grown fruit. The hand harvested grapes were sorted and then macerated for 26 days on the skins. The wine was aged in French Allier oak casks for 12 months and is unfiltered. Produced from 30% Tempranillo, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Syrah and 10% Merlot.

It is similarly styled compared to its younger sibling (Pardina) but with more obvious oak, richer flavors and a slightly longer finish. It merits 2-3 years of cellaring and should drink well through 2017. 90 points Wine Advocate.

Bodegas Victoria Dominio de Longaz 2004, Retail $19.99 Warehouse $16.99

Off to Calatayud:

The region of Calatayud is located about 150 miles northeast of Madrid. One of the youngest viticultural regions to attain D.O. status in Spain (as late as 1989), Calatayud is comprised of some 8,000 hectares or 20,000 acres of vines, most of which are planted to red varietals.

Calatayud benefits from a continental climate with large diurnal shifts in temperature. Cool nights equate to later harvests and better retained natural acidity in the grapes. As most of the vineyards lie on an old river basin, the soil is comprised of brown limestone and loam over slate and gypsum. This particular soil has shown to be also quite good for production of olives, cherries, and other fruits as well as being a terrific host to the vines of the region.

As there are many growers with small vineyard holdings in the region, cooperatives are important here as well. The Maluenda and San Alejandro co-operatives have taken the lead in producing well-priced wines of an international standard in Calatayud. Importer Eric Solomon works with Jean-Marc Lafage of Domaine Lafage in France’s Roussillon on his Calatayud wines. Eric and Jean-Marc have convinced the directors of the San Alejandro co-op to bottle some of the extremely old-vine material separately. They make sure that these old parcels of vines attain the proper maturity levels with balanced extraction levels. The proof is in the pudding when the Las Rocas ‘VV’ or ‘old vines’ appears in our stores and disappears within a few days.

The Las Rocas regular Garnacha bottling is an old favorite and has been a staple at the Wine Warehouses for years.

‘The unoaked 2005 Las Rocas Garnacha is sourced from low yielding vineyards ranging in age from 70-100 years. It gives up attractive aromas of kirsch, raspberries, pepper, and damp earth. This is followed by a broad, full-flavored wine with a supple texture and no hard edges. Drink this pleasure-packed wine over the next 2-3 years.’ 90 points Wine Advocate.

Las Rocas Garnacha 2005, Retail $11.99 Warehouse $8.99

Bugey nights and a little 'Savoie'-faire

Being savvy about Savoie. Those of you who have experienced Patrick Bottex’s pink sparkling Bugey Cerdon are sure to be happy this week. It’s back! Also blog featured is a white wine that will certainly stump your friends at the next blind tasting, a 100% Jacquere. Both wines are from the Savoie region in France.

The region of Savoie is in the eastern French alpine region on the border with Switzerland near Geneva. This dramatic countryside is so popular with visitors for both winter sports and summer relaxation that only a small amount of the wine produced here ever leaves the region. Bugey was once part of Burgundy and under the medieval influence of monasteries. At the time the area was an important wine producer. Much of Savoie's terrain is too mountainous for viticulture and the vineyards tend to be spread out, concentrated in the flatter, more sheltered parts of the region. Some vineyards are on the banks of the Rhone River as it flows from Lake Geneva towards the the Rhone Valley.

The village of Cerdon is located along the river Ain which carries down the waters from the Alps to the Beaujolais area. This region is mostly known for its gastronomy. Few people are aware that the region produces a wonderful, sweet, fizzy wine. Brought in the Beaujolais region, the winemakers from Cerdon inherited the Gamay grape. From the Jura area they got the lesser known Poulsard. Poulsard is a grape that ripens well on the steep and sizzling mountain slopes but the color remains light and the acidity quite high, enhancing its fruity quality.

Bugey Cerdon is a pink, semi-dry bubbly and was made by spontaneous fermentation, otherwise known as the ‘methode ancestrale.’ Gamay and Poulsard grapes are picked by hand and fermented in chilled vats just reaching around 8 degrees alcohol. The young and light wine is then bottled, along with its active yeast and considerable unfermented sugars. The bubbles are a result of fermentation under pressure. Bugey Cerdon is a fantastic warm weather quaff. Watch out though, the bottle will be finished before anticipated.

Lively and lightly sweet raspberry and strawberry flavors jump from the glass and go down quite easily. 'As if' you needed another reason to buy a Bugey; Bugey pairs well with chocolate! Best to act quickly here as this wine sells very quickly and is allocated.

Domaine Patrick Bottex Vin de Bugey Cerdon NV, Retail $19.99 Warehouse $15.99

In 1988, Frederic Giachino took over his family’s very small 3.5 acre estate which has now grown to 18 acres. Although the domaine had been worked before his arrival using traditional viticultural techniques, Frederic took the leap towards organics. Possessing some of the poorest soils in France, the Savoie is primarily made up of clay and limestone parcels with some gravel and sand interspersed in the zone. The climate ranges from mild to quite cold in the zone. Many years grape maturity comes quite late in the season.

The grapes are harvested by hand and undergo a selection process before the crush. The wines are always fermented at cool temperatures to maintain the wine's primary fruit characters and aromas. More richness is imparted into the wines by being aged on their fine lees during the winter with some stirring.

The grape used here is Jacquere, which is the most common white grape variety in the Savoie. Jacquere tends to produce lightly scented, minerally and fresh dry white wines. Fresh, crisp and subtle. Refreshing for a warm summer day.

Frederic Giachino ‘Abymes’ Savoie 2005, Retail $14.99 Warehouse $9.99

As an extra option for your Savoie curiosities, some stores may still have a few bottles of another Savoie Jacquere white wine grown that is grown on 50 year old vines. Described by importer Kermit Lynch as: 'so expressive with plenty of fruit, some of it verging on the exotic, and the combination of minerality and fruit flavors is balanced just right. There is also a neat little sparkle barely tickling the palate, a lovely touch that you don’t realize was needed until you notice it.’

Quenard Les Abymes 2005, Retail $15.99, Warehouse $12.99


Bugey on down to your local WW today.

France’s culinary capital is also a very serious wine producer:

When keeping score in the world of haute cuisine, the Michelin star is one’s unit of measure. When I was in Alsace last, the region boasted having the most ‘three star’ Michelin restaurants in France. The third Michelin star puts one at the apogee of their culinary existence. This same dedication to quality is inherent in many of Alsace’s wine producers. These tidy vineyards are often farmed organically or biodynamically and the subsequent wines display a purity of expression that screams the grape variety and that the wine has a sense of place; it is from the region of Alsace.

Visiting the region of Alsace is like taking a trip to France and Germany at the same time. Because of its location it has been the subject of many territorial disputes between France and Germany. Now separated from Germany by the Rhine river, and from France by the Vosges mountains, the language and culture of Alsace seem to be a combination of both countries, but are at the same time unique. The hilltops of the lower Vosges are dotted with shells of castles and fortresses, casualties of past invasions. There are also monuments to WW2 battles that took place in the region.

The vinous history of Alsace is one of the oldest in France. Wine was cultivated in Alsace long before the Roman colonization. The Alsatian vineyard landscape covers approximately twelve thousand hectares (2.48 acres/ha), grouped in a hundred and ten villages, which produce on average a million hectolitres of wine.

It is certainly a real curiosity why the wines of Alsace seem to be so underappreciated. It may be because there is no easy way to determine the perceived sweetness level of the wine without knowing the producer’s style or vintage condition. There is now a not-so-obvious code on many labels to give an indication of sweetness. Also, all Alsace wines are mandated by law to be bottled in the region of production in tall bottles called flutes. Perhaps the shape of the bottles puts one in the mindset of an off-dry German wine? Don't be confused by the shape of the bottle! These may look like German wines, but they taste noting like them. For the price of a mid-tier California Chardonnay, you can enjoy a good, full flavored, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc or Gewürztraminer from Alsace.

Geographically, Alsace lies between latitude 47.5 degrees and 49 degrees north of the equator, which typically gives a long, cool growing season. The narrow vineyard strip runs from north to south, along the lower contours of the Vosges Mountains, and spans the Rhine River. As a general rule in the vineyards, Alsace’s heavier clay and marl soils produce wines with richer flavors, more body and weight, while the lighter limestone or sandy soils create wines with more elegance and finesse. Flint, schist, shale, and slate soils tend to give wines with a characteristic oily, minerally aroma reminiscent of petrol and sometimes described as ‛gunflint‚, especially those made from the Riesling grape. The harvest is always segregated by varietal, with the different varieties ripening at different times. Generally, harvesting starts in mid September, and often continues well into November. Riesling is the most widely planted variety, accounting for over 20 per cent of the area under vine. Gewürztraminer is grown on almost as much land but usually represents a smaller percentage of the production, which can fluctuate depending on the vintage. Gewurtztraminer’s average yield is the smallest of all the varieties. Pinot Gris is increasingly popular and accounts for almost 12 per cent of the total area under vine. Pinot Noir has also increased its share as the only red varietal of Alsace. Pinot Noir represents nearly 9 per cent of the total vineyard area. Because over 90 per cent of Alsace’s production is white, and because winemakers are emphasizing the primary grape flavors, most wine is vinified and stored in inert containers, and new wood is seldom used (although see Ostertag). Traditional cellars have large oval wood foudres, many over 100 years of age, literally built into the cellar. Traditionally the same cask will be used each year for the same varietal. The build-up of tartaric acic (tartrates) forms a glass-like lining to the cask, leaving no oak characters able to penetrate the must or mask the wine’s character. Most wines are bottled within a year of the vintage, to retain freshness.

Riesling

Riesling is well suited to a wide range of soils, such as clay-sand and classic schist soils. Riesling prefers soils that are well-drained and not especially fertile. Considered by growers to be their most noble variety, Alsace Riesling is almost invariably bone dry. Young Riesling can display floral aromas, although it is sometimes fairly neutral. With age it takes on complex, gunflint, mineral aromas, with crisp steely acidity and very pure fruit flavors. Riesling is dry, rich and strong, with nuances of mineral or flowers. It combines delicacy with elegance. Well-balanced and long in the mouth, it is a culinary match bar-none that displays all its character and originality when served with fish, sea food and any meal that demands a dry and fruity wine.

Gewürztraminer

A limestone core and deep, fertile soils are ideal for Gewurztraminer. Heavy soils containing some clay enhance the aroma of Gewurtz. Usually dry to off-dry, but its low acidity combined with high alcohol and glycerol, give an impression of sweetness. Gewürztraminer has a distinctive spicy aroma and flavor, with hints of lychees and grapefruit. The naturally high sugar levels of Gewürztraminer make it ideal for late harvest sweet wines, and this is the most frequent variety found as a Vendange Tardive or late-harvest wine. It is characterized by its complex fruity, floral and spicy aromas. It is ideally suited to foie gras, exotic dishes, spicy flavors such as Thai, sweet and sour foods, cheeses such as the traditional munster, also blue cheeses and desserts.

Pinot Gris

Pinot Gris prefers deep soils rich in minerals and is extracted completely dry, which is necessary for the development of interesting wines in the coldest regions. Pinot Gris was long underrated in Alsace. It combines some of the spicy flavors of Gewürztraminer with the firm backbone of acidity found in Riesling, giving a wine which ages particularly well. Young Pinot Gris is reminiscent of peaches and apricot, with hints of smoke. It is very successful in a Vendange Tardive style. Powerful, opulent, round and persistent in the mouth, this is the ideal companion to foie gras, white meat, poultry and roasts.

Pinot Blanc

Pinot Blanc likes deep soils rich in minerals. It has a distinct preference for light and fertile chalk soils rich in trace elements. Pinot Blanc is a round, delicate and fruity wine, well-balanced but supple. Pinot Blanc can easily be confused for Chardonnay. It has tropical elements and can be round on the palate. Pinot Blanc pairs well with virtually anything but is a particularly nice combo with grilled fish and roast poultry.

Let’s focus on a few producers. These wines have recently arrived via (of course) a refrigerated container and are presently at the height of freshness.

Domaine Ostertag is a fairly young winery, which began life in the 1960s. The wines are stunning. Andre Ostertag illustrates his attachment to the soil via his wine labels. Ostertag’s labels are pictures of the soil where the grapes for the particular wine grew.

André Ostertag is one of the superstar producers in Alsace, who is as radical as his wines are excellent. His 14 hectares are all farmed biodynamically, and include over 120 different vineyard parcels covering five villages, from which he produces 17 different wines. Since 1984 André has rejected official classification and instead created his own: Vin de fruits (wines that he thinks do not express a specific terroir in green bottles); Vin des Pierres ('stone' wines in brown bottles - terroir specific wines); Vin de Temps (sweet wines in clear bottles, 'Temps' indicating both time spent on vine and the right weather conditions). Andre was one of the first in Alsace to barrel ferment and age, and almost all wines are made in small barrels, even though oak influence is very moderate, partly due to using only Vosges oak - which has small cells, and a dense structure - and very lightly toast. "The power and quality of the fruit means oak does not dominate."

"If, however, his failures fall apart so spectacularly, his triumphs are utterly beguiling, complete and satisfying. Andre Ostertag is an eccentric, a wacky winemaking freak surrounded by the sanity and boredom of Germanic commercialism ..." --from the Committee Interprofessionnel du Vins d'Alsace.

From fruit picked on November 24, says Ostertag) Medium gold with a green tinge. Knockout nose of meat, spice and smoke, with a saline note; reminded me of foie gras! Big, smoky, spicy and full, with lovely ripe acidity framing the smoked meat flavors. Can't quite match the 2005 version for botrytis lift, but this is fat and very expressive. 91 points Steve Tanzer

Ostertag Gewurtztraminer 'Fronholz' VT 2004, Reatil $56.99 Warehouse $54.99

Medium bright yellow. Knockout nose melds pineapple, spring flowers and a whiff of honeyed botrytis. Impressively rich and dense but fairly dry, with soil-driven notes of crushed stone and petrol as well as an exotic pineapple aspect. The 14.2% alcohol actually serves to accentuate the sweetness from noble rot, and yet this wine finishes dry and firm, with more wet stone than fruit showing today. Very long and youthfully tight. 92(+?) points Steve Tanzer

Ostertag Riesling 'Muenchberg' VT 2004, Retail $74.99 Warehouse $69.99

Kuentz-Bas has its origins in 1795, when a winemaking business was founded by Joseph Kuentz. In 1918 a marriage between the Kuentz and Bas families resulted in considerable expansion of the domaine, as the two families combined their vineyards and changed the name of the business to Kuentz-Bas. From then on the family firm went on but had a few bumps in the road.. The buildings and cellars were severely damaged during the Second World War, and the family needed five years to get the business back on its feet. Currently the Kuentz Bas winery is enjoying their finest production in over a decade. On to a few of the wines.

This wine is a blend of several varieties. This wine is a fantastic entry level wine to get the idea of what Alsace can offer.

Kuentz Bas Alsace Blanc 2005, Retail $14.99 Warehouse $9.99

Lifted, penetrating aromas of smoked meat and spices. Medium-sweet and concentrated, with firm balancing acids and a core of spicy flavor

Kuentz Bas Gewurtztraminer 'Pfersigberg' Grand Cru 2001, Retail $59.99 Warehouse $49.99

Aromatic nose which combines cured meats and cinnamon oil. Rich and nicely spicy, quite aromatic in the mouth, with a strong character of lychee and smoke.

Kuentz Bas Gewurtztraminer 'Cuvee Tradition' 2005, Retail $29.99 Warehouse $21.99

Aromatic nose features peaches and spice. Very approachable, with fine fruit character and freshness. Nicely balanced.

Kuentz Bas Pinot Blanc 2005, Retail $14.99 Warehouse $12.99

Tropical notes. Soft and round, with ripe flavor complexity. Well balanced.

Kuentz Bas Pinot Gris 'Tradition' 2005, Retail $23.99 Warehouse $19.99

Lively aromas of orange peel, lemon, minerals and spices. Juicy, fresh, nicely delineated flavors of lemon and lime. Offering up a good intensity of fruit character with a crisp finish.

Kuentz Bas Riesling 'Tradition' 2005, Retail $14.99 Warehouse $13.99

Bright aromas of lime skin and white flowers. Has richness and depth, fruity balancing acidity giving the wine a refreshing juiciness.

Kuentz Bas Pinot Gris Cuvee Caroline VT 1998, Retail $69.99 Warehouse $54.99

Please do yourself a favor and take the time to check out a few of our other selections from the region such as Zind Humbrecht and Domaine Weinbach. These are both biodynamic as well.