Obrigado. I’ll have the bottled water please.

The wine business has its benefits. I had recently taken a job with the Symington family of Portugal. My job was representing the Symington Port and Madeira brands in the eastern part of the US. This was a ‘slam-dunk’ job for someone who loves Port and Madeira as the Symington Port houses are Graham’s, Dow’s, Warre’s, Smith Woodhouse, Quinta do Vesuvio, and Maderia lodges of Blandy’s, Leacock’s and Miles. The obligatory trip to Portugal for indoctrination took place in the fall of 1989. As I was working with Bartholomew Broadbent, we took the trip to Portugal via a quick stop in London. We were able to visit Bollew’s father Michael at his Christie’s auction house office. Must have been a typical day for Michael, there were several bottles of 19th century vintage Madeiras opened that we were welcomed to sample. Dinner that evening was at Chez Broadbent. That picture that you see in Decanter magazine of Michael Broadbent wearing his suit while standing next to a bicycle has some meaning. Michael commutes in downtown London to Christies on his bicycle nearly everyday. This trip to London was special as we were able to spend time with the man who wrote the book that I often take to my favorite restaurant (Bern’s Steak House) as a useful reference for their tome of a wine list. Michael Broadbent’s Great Vintage Wine Book is the ultimate reference guide for wines with some age with the strongest categories being Bordeaux wines and Porto in particular. This book is a great cheat-sheet when trying to navigate the hundreds of pages that make up Bern’s wine list. The next morning we were off to Oporto.

We arrived in Oporto late that morning and were off to the Symington’s offices in Vila Nova da Gaia. This is the town across the river from Oporto where most of the major port houses age their best wines. This seaside town is much cooler than it is up the Douro river where the vineyards are located. The cooler Vila Nova da Gaia cellars help wines avoid the dreadful ‘Douro Bake’ because temperatures there in the summer can easily reach over 100 degress Fahrenheit. With the lack of air conditioning up the Douro, wines could literally caramelize and hence ‘The Douro Bake.’ We tasted through about 50 Ports in the lab with Peter Symington, had a quick al fresco lunch and then went off to tour the Lodges where the ports are aged. The next day we took the old train line that travels along the Douro river. The landscape became more and more rugged as we traveled east and inland. It seemed like we were going back in time. Then it was revealed that UK students would travel here to do third world studies. At dinner that evening James Suckling was with us. The wines during dinner were a bit rustic but correct. As I mentioned in my last blog that wine tasting is a sport, decanters were routinely brought out after dinner and we would then wait in anticipation for a chance to guess the house and vintage of the port. To my amazement, JS did not even wait for his turn to guess the wine in the two decanters. He who had the most to lose made his pronouncement and unfortunately was not close. One was guessed as a single Quinta without much age on it and the other being a vintage port of 10 years greater age but the guess was slightly more than ten years off target. The blind wine was a magnum of 1966 Graham’s poured into two decanters. James Symington’s wife Penny was the only one who stated that the wines were so similar that she had a hard time telling them apart. My guess was Graham’s 1970 and 1966 as the glass I called the 1966 had more sediment in it so I though it had to be older. Obviously the second decanter was poured from the second half of the bottle where the sediment would reside. After 'pudding' we were off to watch the satellites on deck chairs overlooking the Douro in the clear night sky, anticipating our next days water skiing outing with Aussie winemaker and then Symington Family enologist, David Baverstock.

The Douro was once a very active river flowing out to the Atlantic, but now that it has a dam the river is about as still as a bathtub. It was so calm that even I could get up on one ski. Later that day I witnessed a few of the Symingtons in a bit of a heated discussion with the staff. I wasn’t sure what was going on because my Portuguese consists of bom dia, desculpe and obrigado. After that, you can forget it. As it turned out they were discussing the water source having run out to the house and the staff had decided to hook up the house to the Douro water. As this part of Portugal was the equivalent to being in an underdeveloped country, I was soon to find out that the river was accustomed to getting all of the land’s run-off, including sewage. Apparently my system wasn’t as tough as I thought it was. Obrigado, I’ll have the bottled water please.

I had the pleasure of visiting Oporto this June for a few nights. EU money has gone a long way in Oporto. The airport is brand new and very modern. The Sheraton and Le Meridien hotels are world class. The convention center is as fancy as the airport. I was in town a wine fair which showed many of the country’s small producers. The wines and packaging have also come a long way since 1989. Below you can see some examples of the many styles of Portuguese wines that are new and happening. These wineries are all representative of the modern qualitative revolution happening in today's Portugal.

Let me hit you with some knowledge: The region of Vinho Verde lies in Northwest Portugal. Although the region has been producing wine for centuries, it wasn’t until 1959 that the D.O. was created to establish quality controls and help to establish a sense of place for the wines from the zone. The region is characterized by gently rolling hills with some terraces.


The Quinta do Ameal estate dates from the 1850s, but the Araujo family has owned it for just 15 years. This old estate is owned today by one of Vinho Verde’s most ambitious proponents, Pedro Araujo. When taking over the estate, one of his first projects was to turn the entire property over to organic viticulture, one of the few to practice this in the zone. I met Pedro Araujo this June in Oporto at the wine show and revisited his wines. I owe a deep amount of gratitude to Pedro as he gave me the name of a fabulous seafood restaurant where I had a late lunch after the show. Pedro is a serious winemaker, determined to show that the undervalued terroir and grapes of Vinho Verde can be harnessed to make great wines. He is particularly devoted to the Loureiro variety, which he has planted in favor of other indigenous varieties. He ferments and ages Loureiro in new French oak barrels for six months, and feels that the floral character of the Loureiro blends perfectly with the oak aromas which add to the overall complexity of his wine. For grape quality, Pedro has cut yields from 17 tons per acre to just five tons per acre, mostly through green harvesting. He farms organically, with cover crops - legumes, grasses and clover - grown between rows to loosen soils through the roots and get oxygen into earth.

Jancis Robinson, M.W. writes: Most white Vinho Verde left me pretty cold; it seemed so tart and fruitless compared to the more sumptuous Albariños and so on produced in Rías Baixas in Spain to the north But clearly this part of Portugal has been touched by wine revolution and evolution just as much as any other, and producers such as Quinta de Covela and Quinta do Ameal are in the vanguard, dragging the rest, I hope, in their wake.

This wine is fresh with both floral and pear notes, on the palate there's a mass of lemony acidity, has excellent body, is smooth yet keeps its refreshing qualities with nice length on the palate. Not your typical spritzy Vinho Verde.

Quinta do Ameal Loureiro 2004, Retail $13.99 Warehouse $9.99

The Douro might be Portugal’s answer to Spain’s Priorat and France’s Roussillon region, is located in Northeastern Portugal. Historically, the region was the country’s port-producing center, with the city of Oporto as the worldwide seat of the port industry. Now, a few great producers are creating dry bottlings from these same grapes to startling success. Many of these parcels are field blends, with several varietals planted alongside each other.

Quinta de Covela is a beautiful south-facing estate, formed as an amphitheatre overlooking the Douro river. Farmed organically, 19 hectares of terraced vineyards curl around the ruins of the original 16th century manor house. Since the Quinta has undertaken an organic regime in their vineyards, they feel that they are now producing some superb wines in very hot, drought vintages as "the fruit retains balance and keeps its acidity and minerality." The vines seem to absorb the shock of a tough year without showing signs of stress. All work on the Quinta is done by hand, and vinification takes place in both barriques and stainless steel vats.

Quinta de Covela (Portugal) Escolha Rosé 2004A blend of Touriga Nacional, Merlot and many others. It has a soft, sweet earth and plummy-fruited nose with the creaminess and richness of a red wine. On the palate it has some real structure with wild red fruits, a hint of spice and a nice dry finish.

Quinta de Covela Escolha Rose 2004, Retail $9.99 Warehouse $ 4.99

Quinta de Covela (Portugal) Escolha Red 2003Produced from a base of Touriga Nacional, some Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Syrah in the blend. There is plenty of lush, full berry fruit. On the palate there is a nice balance and structure with flavors of wild black fruits, black cherries and fresh menthol. Well balanced with soft tannins and a long finish.

Quinta de Covela Eschola Red 2003, Retail $21.99 Warehouse $14.99


Started in August of 2000, Lavradores de Feitoria is a collective project between 15 quality-minded Quintas in the Douro. While it is technically a cooperative venture, it is unlike a coop in many ways. Principally, there are some single Quinta wines which come from only one estate. Not all quintas produce their own wine and only 4 or 5 are chosen each year. Dirk Niepoort helped start the project and is highly involved in this.

The idea behind this novel project is to take advantage of the climatic and terroir advantages that each of the three Douro sub-regions has to offer. Some of the wines are made from only one of these zones, while some are produced from all three. The Douro Superior tends to produce wines of greater strength while the Cima Corgo and Baixo Corgo tends to produce wines with higher levels of natural acidity and elegance.

The Lavradores shows bright plum and cherry fruits, has a hint of spice on its medium textured palate. Lavradores is a fantastic value and a nice way to experiment with a wine from the Douro region.

Lavradores de Feitoria ‘Douro’ Red 2004, Retail $10.99 Warehouse $7.99

Also from the Douro Valley is the Quinta das Hidrângeas, a perfect example of the current trend in the Douro. Hidrangeas respects the inherited traditions of the region yet is open to the latest technologies. The Quinta has preserved the harmony of its landscape by maintaining the traditional stone walls that cradle it, while reconverting a part of its vineyards.

This Douro wine was nourished by schist-covered slopes and was produced from native grape varieties Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca and Tinta Amarela. The grapes were de-stemmed and then crushed in a granite lagar by traditional treading. Fermented in temperature controlled stainless steel and then aged for 12 months in French oak. This wine has an incredible depth of flavors, with spicy blue and black fruits reigning supreme. We had a sample of this open for five days and it was still kicking!

Quinta das Hidrângeas ‘Douro’ Red 2001, Retail $34.99 Warehouse $19.99


Dirk Niepoort is in charge of the Niepoort winery and is the driving force behind this world-famous property. Dirk heads his family’s business that began making port in 1847. A fifth generation Dutchman, Dirk made his first port vintage in 1987 and has continued creating amazing port bottlings while adding dry red cuvees that have become the talk of the Douro. Dirk is known as one of the main forces behind the progression of dry red wine production in the zone and is certainly its main proponent worldwide.

What Dirk is really known for is the quality of his Tawny ports. The Tawnies have the silky expression of a supple Pinot Noir, with incredible length and complexity. If you speak to a winemaker who makes port, you will find that they are most proud of their 20 year old Tawny wines as this style really shows the skill of the blender and can be incredibly complex.

Niepoort 10 year Tawny Port, Retail $39.99 Warehouse $34.99
Niepoort 20 year Tawny Port, Retail $64.99 Warehouse $54.99
Niepoort 30 year Tawny Port, Retail $129.99 Warehouse $119.99
Niepoort Late Bottled Vintage 2000, Retail 29.99 Warehouse $24.99
Niepoort 2003 Vintage Port 375ml, Retail $44.99 Warehouse $34.99

Pintas is one of the more exciting projects to come out of the Douro in quite some time. The project of husband and wife team Jorge Serodio Borges formerly of Niepoort and Sandra Tavares who is a winemaker in her own right. Together, they farm 2 small hectares of up to 30 different varietals, all planted alongside each other on these hillsides. There is no fancy winery, just a simple structure that allows them to make a terrific wine from their very small holdings. The vineyard is full south facing, helping to explain the dark richness of Pintas.

The Pintas 2003 Vintage Port was produced from the very intense grapes from a very warm year. This port is ripe, rich and has a savory intensity with great depth. Complex and spicy with black fruits and pepper. Extremely concentrated stuff.

Pintas Vintage Port 2003, Retail $49.99 Warehouse $29.99

And in honor of my trip in 1989, please check out our tremendous deals on bottled water:

Pellegrino sparkling from Italy, liters retail $1.99 Warehouse $1.39












Aquapanna still from Italy, liters retail $1.99 Warehouse $1.39










Volvic still from France, 1.5L retail $1.89 Warehouse $1.29
Volvic still from France, liters $1.49 Warehouse $.99












Bloggy dia.........

Why doesn’t my Saumur taste like beets?

Who says that wine tasting is not a sport?

Flashing back to late January, 1993………….to the Drake Hotel in NYC. The setting was a seminar for aspiring Master of Wine candidates. In the ‘candidate’ crowd were a number of American wine notables including Larry Stone, Andrea Immer, Mary Ewing-Mulligan and Doug Frost. The drill encompassed having 12 wines set in front of you in individual glasses. There was nothing other than the questions being asked about the wine as a clue to what the wines might be. Candidates were randomly asked to ‘read their notes’ about a specific wine. After several candidates took their stab as to how the wine was made, what its characteristics were, and what grape/grapes might make up this wine, what appellation and vintage the wine was while giving reasons for the answers; Anthony Foster, M.W. would then proclaim ‘Right! I’ll read MY notes.’ Of course as Anthony knew what the wine was, he had a serious advantage. One would always hope that Anthony would choose them to ‘read their notes’ when there was a confidence level that their tasting notes were strong and accurate on that particular wine. There was a specific red wine that I was hoping that Anthony would spare me having to ‘read my notes.’ This wine had a brick-like red color, had a green-herbal-vegetal like nose, and a rather low level of alcohol and extract. I figured it must come from a cool climate, but other than that I was stumped. It seemed that the rest of the crowd was stumped as well judging from their ‘notes.’ Then there was this one guy at the back of the room who perfectly described the wine, gave a reasoned analysis why the cool climate that this wine came from was the Loire Valley and nailed the variety as Cabernet Franc. The wine was from Saumur Champigny and he was confident that it came from either there or Chinon. Anthony acknowledged that these were the ideal tasting notes. Several of us went up to the guy after the session and asked him how he was able to ‘nail’ that wine when nobody else came close. He said ‘it was easy because the wine smelled and tasted of beets, which is a marker for cool climate reds and in particular Cabernet Franc from the Loire.’ It turns out that this guy had a good bit of experience with Loire Valley reds as he was Kermit Lynch’s national sales manager. The guy was Fran Kysela.




You may be asking yourselves what any of the above has to do with beets? It is all about chaptalization or enrichment. The process is named after Jean-Antoine Chaptal in France during the 1800’s. The process is used to increase the final alcoholic strength of a wine by adding sugar to the grape juice or must before or during fermentation. This would be the opposite of last week’s blog which discussed the problem with grapes that are potentially too ripe.

Let me hit you with some knowledge: Traditionally used to compensate or underripeness in cool winegrowing regions, ‘enrichment’ encompasses the addition of sugar, grape must, or concentrated grape must to a wine. Enrichment is the counterpoint to acidification which is the norm in hot regions. Sucrose is the usual enrichment material used. In northern Europe this has normally been refined sugar beet, or occasionally cane sugar.

So why doesn’t my Saumur taste like beets? It is because we are working with high quality producers from the region. They are farming their vines with lower than average yields, have their vines planted in optimal terroirs and have had good luck with the weather being warmer than usual. With these factors, the Cabernet Franc ripens properly and therefore no enrichment is needed. Be on the lookout for Domaine des Roches Neuves. You’ll be glad that you did.

At the Wine Warehouse, we look to separate ourselves from the pack by aligning with producers who are on the cutting edge. We found a relatively new importer in Jon-David Headrick whose own importing business started in 2003 and who has a portfolio of small wineries from Northern France focusing on the chalk line from Champagne that runs through the Loire Valley. His portfolio currently includes 15 properties from the Loire and 5 growers from Champagne.

The properties with which Jon-David works are consumed with making wines which are true to where they come from, true to the earth, and true to the winemaker’s obsession with quality. The wines are harvested by hand and the grapes are grown according to either organic or biodynamic practices. Many of the properties are certified organic or biodynamic. All are leaders in their appellations and harvest lower yields than their neighbors to ensure a premium product.

Domaine des Roches Neuves (Saumur, Saumur-Champigny) One of the brightest stars in French winemaking today, Thierry Germain is making the wine world re-think how it has perceived Cabernet Franc from the Loire. His tiny property is certified biodynamic and his yields are a miniscule 15-30 hl/ha, almost a full 40 hl/ha under his neighbors and hence, the lack of the need for beets. The vines are vibrant and wild, with tiny berries filled with concentrated fruit and minerality. His white wine ‘Insolite’ is an intensely floral and mineral offering produced entirely from Chenin Blanc.

Domaine des Roches Neuves Saumur Champigny Rouge 2005, Retail $29.99 Warehouse $24.99
Domaine des Roches Neuves Saumur ‘Insolite’ 2005, Retail $29.99 Warehouse $24.99

Domaine Saint Nicolas (Fiefs Vendeens) With vineyards just a stone's throw from the Atlantic ocean, the Fiefs Vendeens is the southernmost of the Loire’s wine growing regions, located about an hour south of Nantes (Muscadet). Domaine St. Nicolas, run by the dynamic Thierry Michon, is one of the few certified biodynamic vineyards in the Loire, and is planted to Chenin, Pinot Noir, Gamay, and other varietals planted mostly on pink slate and quartz. These wines are pure examples of terroir, often expressing the salinity of the nearby sea and the minerality of the slate on which they are planted.

Domaine Saint Nicolas ‘Gammes en May’ 2005, Retail $13.99 Warehouse $9.99

Domaine du Viking (Vouvray) Lionel Gauthier, known to his friends and foes as “the

Viking” is as much a “character” as he is a winemaker with his shock of “Viking” blond hair and big build. His winemaking is all about purity and simplicity, with no manipulation. Aged in older chestnut barrels, this Chenin Blanc is almost always created in a style that he refers to as “tendre” (tender), basically a demi-sec with mouthwatering acidity. His older vintages are prime examples of how Chenin Blanc ages.

Off-dry at first impression, with green almond, fig and pear flavors, this gives way to a more cut on the back end, with floral and candied ginger notes. Long, minerally finish. An absolute steal at this price. Drink now through 2020. 2,000 cases made. 92pts Wine Spectator.

Domaine du Viking Vouvray 2002, Retail $ 21.99 Warehouse $16.99

Like its 1990 sibling, this has candied citrus, pineapple and melon flavors that are mature and defined. But there's extra richness here, with more obvious sweetness and a more open-knit finish. Drink now through 2010. 2,000 cases made. 92pts Wine Spectator

Domaine du Viking Vouvray 1989, Retail $29.99 Warehouse $21.99

Domaine des Huards (Cheverny, Cour-Cheverny) The property is certified biodynamic and uses only indigenous yeasts. Huards Cheverny Rouge is a blend of Pinot Noir and Gamay. This is a very fine and stylish red. Worth seeking out for you Pinot Noir lovers.

Domaine de Huards Cheverny Rouge 2005, Retail $18.99 Warehouse $14.99

Domaine Vincent Ogereau The picture above shows Vincent Ogereau on the left, with Jon-David on the right. Just south of the Loire river from Savennieres, the area of the Anjou where Vincent Ogereau produces Chenin Blanc is composed of the same dense slate that Savennieres is planted on, giving the wine of this tiny part of the Anjou the same density and minerality. There may be some of the Anjou Blanc left in our shops. Our current arrival is the 03 Anjou rouge produced from Cabernet Franc grapes. This is organically farmed, undergoes a long maceration and spends 12 months in barrel.

Domaine Ogereau Anjou Villages Rouge 2003, Retail $ 18.99 Warehouse $15.99

Domaine Vacheron, Sancerre. Each step over the Domaine Vacheron’s 100% silex soil sounds like the intense crunching of oyster shells. What's underfoot is the power that makes “Les Romains” fresh, with great minerality, and thus long-lived. It's also why Domaine Vacheron today is 100% organic/biodynamic—what you taste in every glass is exactly what nature intended.

The cousins Vacheron, Jean-Dominique and Jean-Laurent harvest with yields consistently lower than the average Sancerre harvest. This is just one reason why “Les Romains” is so outstanding—not only does it represent one of the finest terroirs in Sancerre, but its yields (30 ha/hl) are miniscule. Grapes are pressed whole, then aged in large foudres for more oxygen contact and thus more complexity than would be achieved in a stainless steel vessel. This wine has vibrancy and verve. The 2005 Sancerre “Les Romains” is described by The Wine Spectator as a young, bony white, with a flinty spine holding the chalk, chive flower and grass flavors together. Drink now through 2007. 89pts Wine Spectator

Domaine Vacheron Sancerre 2005, Retail $24.99 Warehouse $19.99

In Champagne, JD works only with growers and not with negociants. This approach allows for more place specificity. A few blogs ago I had mentioned that the large Champagne houses end up spending 95% of their profits on promotions and marketing. The following Champagne houses are small and do not have to spend like this. That is why these wines are such good values for the quality that they bring.

Champagne Tarlant (Marne) Benoit Tarlant believes that Champagne doesn’t need an abundance of sugar or liqueur added to taste good, and as such, is one of the new wave of young growers in Champagne to bottle with zero dosage, called “Brut Zero” in French. This approach means that the raw material must be pristine as there is nothing added that can mask it. Located just west of Epernay on the right bank of the Marne, Benoit farms his steep hillsides organically, and harvests and vinifies by parcel, which is a rarity in Champagne.

Champagne Tarlant Brut Zero, Retail $39.99 Warehouse $29.99
Champagne Tarlant La Vigne d’Antan, Retail $59.99 Warehouse $49.99

Champagne Franck Pascal (Marne) One of the leaders of the new revolution in grower Champagne, Franck Pascal owns only 4 hectares of vines in the hills north of the Marne river. As his parcels are completely surrounded by vines controlled by the larger negociants, most of whom use helicopters and huge tractors to spray chemicals on their vines, Franck is forced to buy buffer zones around his vines to keep them in the biodynamic
way that he has raised them. One of the great proponents of Pinot Meunier, Franck believes intensely in the varietal and his bottlings are Meunier-heavy beauties of great class and depth.

Champagne Frank Pascal Brut Prestige 1996, Retail $ 49.99 Warehouse $ 39.99

Champagne Francoise Bedel et Fils (Marne) Francoise rarely calls a vintage. She prefers instead to impress customers with her non-vintage wines, almost all of which actually come from a single year’s fruit. No cultured yeast is used and Francoise insists that the wild yeasts present in the vineyard add to the character. Francoise is one of the few growers who grow their own fruit and make their own wine that is exported to the US. In the 90’s she began the conversion to organic agriculture realizing she was destroying her vineyards with synthetic products. She prepares her own treatments and remains one of the leaders of this movement in Champagne.

Champagne Francoise Bedel Brut Entre Ciel et Terre, Retail $ 59.99 Warehouse $49.99

Bruno Michel Champagne is located in the midst of the village of Pierry, in the heart of Epernay. His entire "terroir" consists of more than forty plots of vines, all of them rich and balanced with soil of chalk and marl in order to produce the best possible champagne grapes. The vines average thirty years of age and have deeply nestled their roots in this famous appellation. Bruno’s terroirs are perfectly situated mid-slope which is optimal for capturing sunshine.
Bruno mixes the traditional with the modern in his cellar by using a combination of oak vats as well as temperature controlled stainless steel. Both of these offerings display tremendous purity and complexity.

Champagne Bruno Michel Cuvee Blanche, Retail $ 38.99 Warehouse $29.99
Champagne Bruno Michel Cuvee Terre Blanc de Blancs, Retail $ 49.99 Warehouse $ 39.99

Perfectly ripe grapes, you just can’t ‘beet’ em.

‘Freedom of choice.’ Are you really required to buy that 95 point wine that is under $20?

‘a victim of collision on the open sea
nobody ever said that life was free
sank, swam, go down with the ship
but use your freedom of choice’
Devo

If 15 is the new 14, what do we do about 16.5?

The review came out. There was a slight rumbling from our most ardent ‘Parkerophiles.’ We were able to secure a reasonably healthy allocation of the basic wines and bottles of the higher priced ones. Then they arrived. Nice labels. Cute! I very slowly and carefully turned to the back-label as I have learned to do with a Sparky Marquis wine. There it was! It was just as I had suspected. I was aghast! 16.0! The next type, 16.0! The next type, 16.5! Oy! What are people going to do with these things? These alcohol levels are setting new records. The Carnival of Love review from Parker reads ‘Great purity, symmetry, and harmony as well as remarkable balance for such a rich, intense wine, as it sat in the glass espresso, vanillin, white chocolate, and additional black fruits also emerged,’ 99 points. Sorry, but at 16.5% the wine should be re-named ‘The Carnival of Sleep.’ How do you past the first glass of this stuff? Then weighing in at 16.0%, ‘The Boxer’ reviews as ‘an incredible density of fruit along with that tell-tale purity, blackberries, white flowers, melted chocolate, sweet licorice, and subtle wood. Full-bodied, beautifully textured and layered with an awesome finish,’ receiving a 95 point score by Parker and a Top 100 in The Wine Spectator for calendar year 2006 while retailing for $20. My wife’s comments on the wine differed. I always taste her on things blind to get an objective view. ‘What IS that? It tastes like cough medicine. That’s just not pleasant to me.’ This is from a lady who is not afraid of high powered Zins. The quick jump to buy a wine with a score without any prior experience with the wine reminds me a bit of a Bob Johnson wine cartoon. In the cartoon the store customer tastes a wine, makes a face and says 'Geez that's repulsive.' The wine shop owner calmly states that 'The Wine Advisor gave it a 96.' The customer then quickly says 'I'll Take a case.' Having polled a few of our stores, our customers have not complained. One customer said that the wines are just tight. The wines that he shipped in from California a few months back are now starting to come around. Personally I don’t see how? The fruit is nice, but the alcohol overwhelms the fruit in the bouquet and the 16% gave a burn to the back of my throat. However, I must admire a person ‘sticking by their guns’ with their ‘glass half-full’ by believing in their purchase. There is another cute name in this line of wines called ‘Enchanted Path.’ My suggestion should Sparky choose to do a line extension and the alcohols continue to remain high is to call the next wine ‘The Designated Driver.’

Let me hit you with some knowledge: Grape sugar levels are measured by different countries in units of brix, baume and oeschle. Simply multiply your Brix reading by 0.55. Now, because yeasts differ and their living conditions vary, the exact amount of alcohol produced will waver, more or less. But this is the general picture: Brix X 0.55 = % alcohol. One unit of Baume is equivalent to 1.8 degrees Brix. Oechsle is the unit used in Germany and Switzerland to measure the sugar content of must, the unfermented liquour from which wine is made. One degree Oechsle (or Öchsle) is roughly equivalent to 0.2% sugar by weight. Alcohol in wine is produced by the conversion of the grapes must sugars by yeasts.

We can go on and on about why alcohol levels in wine have been and are still increasing. The truth is that people are harvesting at riper levels. The documentary film Mondovino blames the influence of wine-writer Robert Parker. Darker colored reds with higher extract usually do get better reviews. The environmentalists blame ‘global warming.’ We are in a period where temperatures are rising around the globe just as it was in the 1500’s. With more heat, there is more ripeness. There are other possibilities for higher alcohol levels in wine. New vine clones are very efficient at ripening grapes. Various grape trellises are suited to vineyard sites to optimally ripen grapes. Green harvesting can reduce the crop load and quicken ripening of the remaining bunches. New commercial yeasts in the winery are extremely efficient and can now ferment to higher alcohol levels without stopping. Premium wineries are hesitant to harvest grapes with any green in their seeds. There are many new plantings. Young vines generally need to have higher sugars in their grapes to lose the green pips. Then there are the tricks………. One can extract water from grape must by reverse osmosis, the spinning cone or by cryo-extraction. Less water means higher sugars. Many top Chateaus in Bordeaux have a Reverse Osmosis machine on site. Higher sugar means more potential alcohol. One famous California winemaker is rumored to add concentrated Cabernet Sauvignon grape must to her Cabernets. Excess alcohol can then be removed by the spinning cone or by reverse osmosis. But the machines can only remove the alcohol up to a point without the wine seeming disjointed.
Are wineries harvesting riper? A two-year survey was conducted by the Napa County UC Cooperative Extension to determine the amount of weight loss in grapes that have experienced extended ripening. It was concluded that growers lose money when their contracted clients insist on the practice of hang time. Winemakers are trying to coax as much sugar and maturity out of the grapes as possible. But, by doing so, growers have complained that as sugar levels increase, their grapes dehydrate, which results in weight loss, and therefore clients have been getting away with paying less. A new system is being worked out to add costs to a winery once the sugar levels go past a pre-determined degree. Some vineyard owners just sell by the acre and not by the ton. They calculate what a good return is based upon tons of grapes per acre, then the winery is free to request as much green harvesting or hang time as they choose. Marc Kent of Boekenhoutskloof in South Africa has been called the ‘King of SA Syrah’ by Jancis Robinson. He says that he looks for ‘old man’s face’ or slight dehydration in his Syrah grapes before harvesting. Sparky must be looking for ‘Rip Van Winkle.’

We have just received another container of the Click Imports Australian wines. The alcohol levels on these offerings are much more in check than the above examples. Balance rocks! Speaking of rocks……………….

Rockbare

Approximately 25 miles from Adelaide’s back door is the McLaren Vale wine district. RockBare's winemaker, Tim Burvill, has established strong relationships with grape growers throughout the vale. So he has his choice of the best grapes the area has to offer. He then uses a winemaking process without a lot of handling or manipulation. The idea is to get the best grapes and let the fruit speak for itself. Tim Burvill gained extensive winemaking experience working at Southcorp, where he was responsible for making one of Australia's most expensive premium chardonnays, Yattarna. So Tim knows all the most modern winemaking techniques. But when Tim created the RockBare label in 2000, he made a conscious decision to incorporate winemaking techniques that go back a hundred years or more. Using a minimal-filtering or no-filtering approach and very little oak ageing, Tim makes wines that are filled with complex flavors driven by the fruit. McLaren Vale is most famous for its Shiraz. One taste of RockBare's Shiraz and you know why. It has a deep, intense color and a peppery taste with hints of licorice.

The fruit for the Rockbare Reserve Chardonnay 2003 comes off one of the original Penfolds Yattarna Vineyards. The 20-year-old vines are nestled in a particularly cool part of the Adelaide Hills. This allows for the slow and maximum flavor development in the berries during ripening. The wine underwent 66 percent barrel fermentation, 50 percent malolactic fermentation and was stored for 10 months on lees with battonage. In 2003 there was a nationwide drought; extreme heat in some regions; widespread rains in February; and low fruitfulness in cool-climate areas. As a result Adelaide Hills had low crops with very intense, yet elegant flavors.

The superb 2003 Chardonnay Reserve exhibits a slight greenish hue to its color along with notions of peach, lemon blossom, orange rind, and a nutty, brioche-like component. Medium to full-bodied, with a fabulous texture as well as a long finish, it is reminiscent of a New World version of a premier cru Chassagne-Montrachet from the likes of Michel Niellon. 91pts Wine Advocate. 13.0% alcohol.

Rockbare Reserve Chardonnay 2003, Retail $24.99 Warehouse $19.99

Rockbare’s regular Chardonnay employs cool fermentation over four weeks, 40 percent maloactic fermentation, maturation on yeast lees for five months.

The remarkable Rockbare 2005 Chardonnay sells for a song. It sees about 40% malolactic and includes 13% Semillon in the blend. A flamboyant perfume of lemon blossom, flowers, orange marmalade, and white peaches is followed by a wine with great weight in the mouth, gorgeous acidity, beautiful freshness, and a long, heady finish. This terrific Chardonnay blew me away. 92 points Wine Advocate. 13.5% alcohol.

Rockbare Chardonnay 2005, Retail $15.99 Warehouse $12.99

Rockbare’s Reserve Shiraz is made predominantly from 140-year-old Barossa Valley Shiraz vines. Warm fermentation in small open fermenters. Spent 18 months storage in oak (70 percent new French oak barrel, 30 percent new American oak barrels).

Structured, massive, and backward is the 2001 Shiraz Reserve, whose major component emerges from a 100-year plus vineyard. Its deep plum/ruby color is followed by aromas of figs, plums, black currants, berries, licorice, and pepper. This full-bodied, powerful, moderately tannic, rich Shiraz requires 1-2 years of cellaring. 91 points Wine Advocate. 15.5% alcohol. OK, this is a bit over the top……………

The 2002 Rockbare Shiraz Reserve is a blockbuster-styled Shiraz. Its dense purple color is accompanied by gorgeous aromas of toasty oak intermixed with licorice, spice box, blackberries, and figs, fabulous concentration, a huge, muscular yet silky-textured, opulent mid-palate, and an explosive finish. Enjoy this knock-out Shiraz over the next 10-12 years. 92 points Wine Advocate. 14.0% alcohol.

Rockbare Shiraz Reserve 2002, Retail $33.99 Warehouse $26.99

Rockbare Shiraz Reserve 2001, Retail $33.99 Warehouse $26.99

Rockbare’s regular Shiraz is hand harvested from very old vines and machine harvested from old vines. Warm fermented on skins for 10 to 14 days at 22ºC. Aerobic fermentation, gentle pressing of the skins using airbags and maloactic fermentation in the barrel. Matured 14 months in the barrel. 2/3’s new French oak with the remainder predominantly new American oak.

A beautiful, pure, intense, concentrated effort is the Rockbare 2004 Shiraz. A deep ruby/purple color is accompanied by aromas of mocha, white chocolate, black cherries, and cassis. This full-bodied, opulent, gorgeous Shiraz can be enjoyed over the next 5-6 years. 90 points Wine Advocate. 14.5% alcohol.

Rockbare Shiraz 2004, Retail $16.99 Warehouse $12.99

Cape Barren The Cape Barren Winery is located in Brookman’s Road, Blewitt Springs in the Mediterranean-style appellation of McLaren Vale. McLaren Vale experiences moderate temperatures throughout the year, with warm and dry spring and summer days ideal for growing high quality grapes. Cape Barren soils have deep sand over ironstone and clay subsoil perfect for holding moisture. I had mentioned the Old Vine Shiraz in a previous blog. This and the GSM are blue fruit bombs. These are impressive!

This has tremendous presence, pouring out its blueberry, plum, vanilla and dark chocolate flavors into a plush stream that lets the flavors sail on and on. Tannins are well-submerged, and the structure feels like it could carry the intense flavors this easily for a long time. Only 224 cases of this made it into the US. 92 points Wine Spectator. 14.5% alcohol.

Cape Barren GSM 2004, Retail $23.99 Warehouse $19.99

Brokenwood Established in 1970, Brokenwood Wines has evolved from a weekend venture for self-professed hobby winemakers into one of Australia's most reputable wine labels. Brokenwood was established by a trio of Sydney-based solicitors who then paid a record price of $970 per acre for a 10-acre block in the foothills of the Brokenback Ranges. The original block, initially planned as a cricket round for the local community (hence the Cricket Pitch blends) was planted with the Cabernet Sauvignon and later Shiraz.

A dynamite value in dry, fragrant, tasty white wine is the Brokenwood 2004 Cricket Pitch White, a blend of 55% Sauvignon Blanc and 45% Semillon that was fermented and aged in stainless steel prior to bottling. Elegant aromas of lemons, limes, white peaches, and orange rinds emerge from this crisp, medium-bodied, well-made dry white. 86 points Wine Advocate. 13.0% alcohol.

Brokenwood Cricket Pitch White 2004, Retail $15.99 Warehouse $12.99



Brokenwood Cricket Pitch Red 2002, Retail $15.99 Warehouse $12.99

Brokenwood 2002 Area Blend, a 100% Shiraz aged in primarily American oak. Earthy, with hints of fresh mushrooms, black cherries, underbrush, and cassis, this medium-bodied, somewhat rustic effort reveals slightly jagged edges. 88 points Wine Advocate. 14.0% alcohol.

Brokenwood Area Shiraz 2002, Retail $27.99 Warehouse $22.99

Nepenthe

Throughout many of the premium vineyards of South Australia you'll find large signs which read "Nepenthe Viticulture." That's because Nepenthe is widely known as the premier cool-climate viticultural management company in South Australia. In the past decade, Nepenthe wines have made a huge splash in the premium, cool-climate Australian wine scene. Nepenthe is located in the Lenswood area of the Adelaide Hills, one of the premier cool climate wine regions in Australia. The vineyards are on beautiful, wooded rolling terrain that is only a 40-minute drive from the center of Adelaide. With an altitude above 1,200 feet, plentiful rainfall, and deep, well-drained soils, the vineyards are ideal for cool climate varieties such as chardonnay, pinot noir and sauvignon blanc.

The sumptuously rich, but light on its feet Nepenthe 2005 Tryst White is a gorgeous blend of 59% Sauvignon Blanc, 36% Semillon, and 5% Pinot Gris. A stunning effort, it offers subtle aromas of spice, honeysuckle, citrus oil, and orange marmalade. 91 points Wine Advocate. 13.5% alcohol.

Nepenthe Tryst White 2005, Retail 14.99 Warehouse $11.99

Although the medium to dark ruby-hued Nepenthe 2004 Tryst red (a blend of 73% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Tempranillo, and 10% Zinfandel) spent 10 months in primarily French oak, it emphasizes fruit over structure and tannin, offering aromas of black currants, licorice, smoke, dried herbs, and sweet cherries and currants. It should drink well for 2-3 years. 87 points Wine Advocate. 13.5% alcohol.

Nepenthe Tryst Red 2004, Retail $14.99 Warehouse $11.99

The medium-bodied, crisp, tasty Nepenthe 2005 Sauvignon Blanc exhibits wonderful notes of melons, dried herbs, figs, and passion fruit. 88 points Wine Advocate. 13.0% alcohol.

Nepenthe Sauvignon Blanc 2005, Retail $15.99 Warehouse $12.99

Sticks

Winemaker Rob 'Sticks' Dolan crafts these wines from fruit grown on premium vineyards in Victoria's Yarra Valley. The Yarra Valley is unquestionably one of Australia's leading producers of super-premium, cool-climate wine. The region is cooler than Bordeaux but warmer than Burgundy. Its long ripening period allows sugar levels to rise gradually while still retaining natural acidity, resulting in excellent flavors and acid balance.

This cool-climate offering, which is versatile with an assortment of foods, emphasizes the varietal’s fruit, and possess good nuances as well as surprising elegance. For example, the Sticks 2004 Chardonnay exhibits plenty of pear, lemon blossom, pineapple, and mineral characteristics. It is an excellent, medium-bodied Chardonnay with surprising flavor depth and length. Drink it over the next 1-2 years. 88 points Wine Advocate. 13.0% alcohol.

Sticks Chardonnay 2004, Retail $16.99 Warehouse $12.99

This cool-climate offering, which is versatile with an assortment of foods, emphasizes the varietal’s fruit, and possess good nuances as well as surprising elegance. Sticks’ 2004 Pinot Noir reveals aromas of herbs and tart cherries, medium body, and a spicy, earthy finish. 84 points Wine Advocate. 13.0% alcohol.

Sticks Pinot Noir 2004, Retail $16.99 Warehouse $12.99

Kangarilla Road

Kevin O’Brien’s wines were featured here several weeks ago. We have just received more in. Kevin will be back in Florida to taste his wines with us in January. Before creating the Kangarilla Road vineyard and winery, Kevin was a winemaker educated at the highly regarded Roseworthy College in Adelaide. Kangarilla Road is located in the McLaren Vale district west of the Adelaide Hills and east of the Gulf of St. Vincent. This is an area known for its mild, Mediterranean-style climate. And his vineyard is situated on a higher, and therefore slightly cooler plateau than many others in the region. Rainfall is plentiful in winter; and summers are generally warm and sunny with low humidity. The terrain is gently rolling hills and the soils are predominantly deep alluvial hard red loam complex soils. The soils drain well but hold deep winter water that the vines draw from in summer.

The stunning Kangarilla Road 2004 Shiraz boasts deep mocha, blackberry, cherry, and white chocolate notes interspersed with hints of new oak (both French and American wood are used), pepper, smoke, and coffee. This rich, layered, tasty Aussie red can be drunk now and over the next 7-8 years. 92 points Wine Advocate. 14.0% alcohol.

Kangarilla Road Shiraz 2004, Retail $21.99 Warehouse $ 17.99

One of my favorite McLaren Vale wineries, Kangarilla Road offers very realistic prices for the quality of their wines. It is tough for Australian Zinfandel to compete with those from California. While some Aussie Zins are very good, prices are generally high, reflecting their rarity Down Under. Kangarilla Road’s very good 2004 Zinfandel Langhorne Creek reveals peppery fig and berry-like fruit, medium body, decent acidity, and a surprising elegance. It is ideal for drinking over the next 2-3 years. 87 points Wine Advocate. 14.0% alcohol.

Kangarilla Road Zinfandel Langhorne Creek 2004, Retail $16.99 Warehouse $13.99

Kangarilla Road does a beautiful job with Zinfandel, and the 2004 McLaren Vale possesses a dark ruby/purple color as well as a big, sweet, briery-scented perfume displaying hints of herbs, pepper, and spice. Aged in one-year-old French oak for 14 months, it reveals a powerful Zinfandel character. 89 points Wine Advocate. 15.5% alcohol. OK, the outer boundaries have been reached here too.

Kangarilla Road Zinfandel McLaren Vale 2004, Retail $32.99 Warehouse $25.99

A delicate, nuanced style of Kangarilla Road Viognier, the 2005 makes a mockery of many New World, tooty fruity, bubble gum type wines. Exceptional freshness, a mineral-like character, medium body, and plenty of peach, apricot, and citrus oil notes are present in this impressively endowed effort. 90 points Wine Advocate. 14.0% alcohol.

Kangarilla Road Viognier 2005, Retail $18.99 Warehouse $15.99

The 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon may be one of the best buys in Cabernet Sauvignon in the marketplace. A 100% Cabernet Sauvignon aged 18 months in both French and American oak, it exhibits a deep ruby/purple color as well as classic creme de cassis, toasty oak, and licorice characteristics. This dense, opulently textured, pure, rich, flavorful red reveals sweet tannin in addition to a long, velvety-textured finish. 91 points Wine Advocate. 14.0% alcohol.

The 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon (100% Cabernet Sauvignon) was aged in a combination of new and old French and American wood. This vintage’s long, cool growing season resulted in a wine with beautifully pure notes of black currants, mint, white chocolate, and spicy vanillin. Medium to full-bodied and super-rich with lovely purity, this is a polished, sophisticated Cabernet that should drink well for a decade or more. 91 points Wine Advocate. 14.0% alcohol.

Kangarilla Road Cabernet Sauvignon 2002, Retail $21.99 Warehouse $18.99
Kangarilla Road Cabernet Sauvignon 2004, Retail $21.99 Warehouse $18.99
Kangarilla Road Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, Retail $21.99 Warehouse $18.99

2 UP

This wine is a joint venture between importer Peter Click and winemaker Kevin O’Brien, who produces the youthful cuvees from McLaren Vale’s Kangarilla Road estate. The 2004 did not get reviewed, the 2005 review is as follows: This deep ruby/purple-tinged 2 Up Shiraz offers gorgeous aromas of sweet blackberries, figs, plums, and kirsch. Dense, opulent, and full-bodied, it is a terrific South Australian fruit bomb. Enjoy it over the next 2-3 years. It is the type of wine value that simply can’t be found in California. 90 points Wine Advocate. 14% alcohol.

2 UP Shiraz 2004, Retail $13.99 Warehouse $11.99

Campbell’s

We had discussed Campbell”s in a previous blog, but they are worth mentioning again as they are part of the Click portfolio. Campbells produces some of the world's finest and most intense dessert wines. This family-owned vineyard and winery uses a modified ‘solera’ method of blending and maturing new and old wines over a period of years. Some of the material used for blending is 70, 80, even 90 years old. The solera, originally made famous by the Spanish and Portuguese, is a series of up to seven casks, each containing wine at successive stages of maturation. The result is a uniformity of quality, age and concentrated character.

The unctuous, light amber-hued non-vintage Campbell’s Muscat exhibits a sweet, caramelized, raisiny character with notes of plums, fruitcakes, and marmalade. It is gloriously sweet yet relatively light on its feet. 93 points Wine Advocate. 17% alcohol. This wine is fortified with grape neutral spirits to arrest fermentation and retain natural sweetness.

Campbell’s Liqueur Muscat 375ml, Retail $18.99 Warehouse $14.99

The non-vintage Campbell’s Tokay reveals hints of Chinese black tea interwoven with caramel, buttered nuts, prunes, and toffee. These wines rarely improve in the bottle, but even after 5-10 years, they do not reveal any signs of falling apart. 91 points Wine Advocate. 17% alcohol. This wine is fortified with grape neutral spirits to arrest fermentation and retain natural sweetness.

Campbell’s Tokay 375ml, Retail $18.99 Warehouse $14.99



Balance in wine is in the eye of the beholder as balance is essentially the difference in magnitude between opposing forces or influences. Vive la difference!

G'day from Monsieur Bloogy

It’s beginning to look a lot like ‘fizz-mas.’

You may have observed the stacks of bubbly being featured in our stores. It’s that time of year.

Couldn’t help but notice the branding in the latest James Bond movie as James orders Champagne from room service. Bollinger was ordered, but surprise………….it was the Grand Annee. When this many bucks were being spent on marketing to place this product in the movie, the marketers had to make sure that there is enough of the product available for consumers and RD is not produced in sufficient quantities to fit the bill. I just wonder which vintage of Château L’Angelus James consumed with his dinner after celebrating his winnings at the card table? Sean Connery would have certainly mentioned the Château and the vintage. The Grand Annee was ordered without a vintage as well. Sean is still the #1 Bond for wine consumers. Unfortunately for Sean Connery, he must concede the #1 ranking to Daniel Craig in the ‘six-pack abs’ department.

So why am I writing about marketing and branding and not the wines themselves? It’s because the Champenois are some of the most sophisticated and ruthless marketers in the world. Just try and launch a product, any product with the word Champagne in the moniker. Be prepared to be served papers and to be heading to court. The Champenois protect their region’s name fiercely, and have done so to great success. In the EU, sparkling producers can no longer state ‘Methode Champenois’ on their labels. The new term for making sparkling wine in the EU in Champagne method is now ‘Methode Traditionelle.’ Who’s to argue with the protectionist ways of the Champenois when Champagne is most likely the world's most famous wine, and one that is most associated with a celebration? Champagne is one of the few categories in French wine to actually show growth around the world. The top Champagne houses put 95% of their profits back into marketing. What other wine category do you know of where diners can be recognized for their choice across a dining room by the shape of the bottle or the color of a label? Although for me, it also makes it easy to spot the pretenders. If I spot someone drinking from an orange/yellow label from across the room, they have just been labeled as a ‘victim of marketing.’ While many French grape farmers and winemakers are protesting their government’s lack of support, the Champenois biggest problem is trying to figure out whether they will be buying a blue or silver Mercedes this year. Ok, well maybe this is a bit of an exaggeration, but have you seen the direction Champagne prices have gone since the millennium push? As it is Champagne season, we’d better get to the wines.

Champagne is the most northerly wine region in France. Champagne is usually made from a blend of grapes sourced from different vineyards across this large region, yet at the Wine Warehouse we have a nice selection of ‘grower’ Champagnes being produced from a specific place. The grape varieties used in Champagne are Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. Approximately three quarters of all Champagne sold is designated as 'non-vintage': this is a blend of vintages (predominantly the most recent) and can vary widely in quality depending on the producer. Champagne from a single vintage is designated 'vintage', and is produced in lower quantities and only in the better years, so it is usually much higher quality. Other styles to look out for on the label include Blanc de Blancs (made from Chardonnay only) and Blanc de Noirs (made only from the red grapes Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier).

Let me hit you with some knowledge: Developed in the Champagne region, the traditional method of making sparkling wine consists of blending various still wines to make a cuvee representative of the house’s style. After the wines are blended, a bottling dosage and special yeasts are added, and the cuvée is immediately bottled and corked. The yeast and sugar in the dosage create a secondary fermentation in the bottle, producing additional alcohol and carbon dioxide gas, which gives the wine its effervescence. Sediment produced during the second fermentation is removed through riddling (or rémuage), a process which the bottles are positioned downward at a 45° angle in specially built racks called pupitres. Every 3 or 4 days, a trained workman gives the bottles a shake and a slight turn, gradually increases the angle of tilt, and drops the bottle back in the rack with a slight whack. In 6 to 8 weeks, all the bottles are positioned straight downward and the sediment has collected in the neck. Although riddling was once done entirely by hand, today many wineries employ ‘gyro-palettes’ that dramatically shorten this lengthy procedure. After the riddling process is complete, the disgorging (or dégorgement) takes place. Disgorging is where the sediment is removed from the bottle. Just before final bottling, a ‘shipping dosage’ (dosage d'expedition) containing sugar and some of the same cuvée is added. The percentage of sugar determines the degree of the wine's sweetness.



Bollinger has been awarded the Royal Warrant by seven British monarchs since 1884, so Bond pledged his loyalty to Bollinger. In 1829, Champagne Bollinger introduced an instantly recognizable, dry, toasty style that connoisseurs around the globe are said to have coveted ever since. Six generations of the Bollinger family have maintained the house style, and Bollinger is rare in that it is one of the few Grande Marque houses to be owned, controlled and managed by the same family since it was founded.

With 399 acres of vineyards situated in the best of the Grands Crus and Premiers Crus villages, Bollinger relies on its own estate for nearly two-thirds of its grape requirements, the majority being Pinot Noir which gives its Champagne its distinctive roundness and elegance. Bollinger is one of a select few houses that can control the quality of its grape supply. This is why Bollinger can maintain its character and integrity.

Bollinger Special Cuvée NV, Champagne is a blend of 60% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay and 15% Pinot Meunier. Special Cuvée is meant to be the purest expression of Champagne Bollinger's style. Bollinger’s winemaker is expected to year after year, create a blend that is consistent both in style and quality. This NV Champagne has tremendous depth and balance, with rich and toasty aromas and flavors. This wine is fermented in both wooden casks and stainless steel. The top cuvees from Bollinger are fermented in wood only. Previous director of Bollinger, Christian Bizot was said to refuse to sit in the same church pew with a producer who does not ferment their wines in wood.

Bollinger Special Cuvee Brut, Retail $49.99 Warehouse $34.99

Louis Roederer was founded in 1827. Initially, Roederer’s biggest customers were the Russians, and with the 1917 revolutionaries not being Champagne socialists, Roederer lost 80% of their market overnight. Cristal itself was commissioned in Tsar Alexander II, who wanted his wine in clear glass: Cristal comes in similar clear, puntless bottles to this day. The celebrated Cristal, has recently become chic with the likes of professional athletes and the hip-hop crowd. Although Cristal may now be ultra-trendy, there’s substance behind the style. Roederer also does a commendable job with its other wines. Much of the secret to this success, is Roederer predominantly using grapes from their own vineyards. Their 450 acres of vineyards make up nearly 80% of their production. This is why Bollinger and Roederer stand out from many of their competitors.

Louis Roederer Cristal 1999, Retail $219.99 Warehouse $199.99
Louis Roederer Champagne Brut 1999, Retail $69.99 Warehouse $49.99
Louis Roederer Champagne Brut Premiere NV, Retail $44.99 Warehouse $26.99

Roederer Estate is the California winery owned by Champagne Louis Roederer. Roederer Estate is located in the cool Anderson Valley of Mendicino. As in France, the California-Roederer's winemaking style is based on two elements: complete ownership of its vineyards and the addition of oak-aged reserve wines to each year's blend or cuvée. All the grapes for Roederer Estate’s wines are grown on the Estate. Oak-aged wines from the Estate's reserve cellars are added to the blend, creating a multi-vintage cuvée in the traditional Roederer style. Only the cuvée (first pressing of 120 gallons/ton) is used; no premiere or deuxieme taille. The fermentation takes place in high-grade stainless steel tanks at 65 degrees Fahrenheit. None to minimal malolactic fermentation is used in order to ensure that the wines age well and retain the fresh, somewhat austere style that is one of the characteristics of Roederer wines. Roederer Estate Brut is produced from 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir.

Roederer Estate Brut NV, Retail $21.99 Warehouse $15.95

The concept of Roederer Estate’s vintage L’Ermitage is the same one that is used in Champagne: Only the best of the vintage is selected. These are the most exceptional wines that look to create a unique blend that will allow for longer aging, a wine with more complexity, elegance and finesse. The blending team includes winemakers from Champagne Louis Roederer in France and Roederer Estate in California in order to insure that they maintain the traditional Roederer house style. The wine for the dosage added to the 2000 L’ERMITAGE was 2000 wine liquor aged for 5 years in a French oak casks. Try this wine blind. It blows away many French Champagnes.

Roederer Estate L’Ermitage 2000, Retail $39.99 Warehouse $29.99

Founded in 1812, Laurent-Perrier has been avant-garde in creating unique and elegant champagnes for nearly two hundred years. The house was acquired by the Nonancourt family in 1939 and for over 65 years the Nonancourts have dedicated themselves to innovating and perfecting Laurent-Perrier Champagne.

Chardonnay is the dominant grape variety in Laurent Perrier Brut NV. Its proportion is unusually high for a non-vintage Champagne blend, being double the average. Wines from more than 55 crus make up the blend. 10% to 20% of the blend consists of reserve wines which adds complexity and maintains the house style. Because of its balance and natural freshness, Brut L-P only receives a light dosage. Its ideal aging period is about three years. It’s a pity that Champagne houses do not give a best before date on their non-vintage cuvees. Where can we see the date for the third year? This is an incredible value.

Laurent Perrier Champagne Brut NV, Retail $31.99 Warehouse $25.99

Care to try a Champagne without the dosage? Produced from nearly equal parts of chardonnay and pinot noir, LP Ultra Brut is made exclusively with grapes from very ripe harvests. Selection is rigorous to ensure that only grapes with both high sugar levels and low acidity are used. This is essential with no dosage being added. The second fermentation on yeast lasts at least four years.

Laurent Perrier Champagne Ultra Brut, Retail $39.99 Warehouse $34.99

Laurent Perrier Rose is made with grapes sourced from LP’s most prestigious vineyards. There is a short maceration period during which Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes are blended together to obtain the Champagne's delicate color, unique flavors and complex aromas. The second fermentation on the yeasts lasts between five and ten years, depending on the characteristics of the vintage. Its color is a deep salmon pink and its fine bead exhales zesty orange peel and preserved berry aromas. It offers a lingering finish that is topped off by a hint of ripe red fruit yet with a taut structure.

Laurent Perrier Champagne Rose, Retail $59.99 Warehouse $ 49.99

Laurent Perrier's Tete de Cuvee is Grand Siecle. This is a top wine where you do not have dip into your home equity line to enjoy it.

Laurent Perrier Champagne Grand Siecle, Retail $79.99 Warehouse $59.99

Some other Champagnes and sparkling wines to look out for:

CHAMPAGNE:

Pol Roger Champagne Brut NV, Retail $47.99 Warehouse $26.99

Mumm's Cordon Rouge Brut NV, Warehouse $29.99

Mumm's Carte Classique Extra Dry NV, Warehouse $24.99

CALIFORNIA:

Domaine Mumm Brut Prestige NV, Warehouse $13.99

Domaine Mumm Blanc de Noir NV, Warehouse $13.99

Domaine Mumm Blanc de Blancs NV, Warehouse $13.99

WAHINGTON STATE

Domaine St Michelle Brut NV, Warehouse $8.95

Domaine St Michelle Blanc de Noirs NV, Warehouse $8.95

Domaine St Michelle Blanc de Blancs NV, Warehouse $8.95

AUSTRALIA:

Taltarni Brut Tache, Warehouse $17.99

ITALY:

Mionetto Prosecco, Warehouse $9.99

May the fizz be with you..............

Anything But Chardonnay! Did Everyone Forget? Geez!

Ah, human nature. We all love the winners, yet we seem to revel in the fall from their pedestals as well. Schadenfreude, I suspect. But why pick on a poor defenseless grape? Perhaps the ‘Anything But Chardonnay’ campaign came about because Chardonnay had become so popular that people began asking for their white wine generically as a Chardonnay instead of its previous American generic moniker of ‘Chablis?’ So, just how popular is Chardonnay in the US? According to AC Nielsen, Chardonnay accounts for over 22% of the dollars that we spend in the entire wine category. 22% may not seem to be a dominant number, yet for imported white wines Chardonnay represents 32.8%. This number would be higher if it wasn’t for Pinot Grigio. For domestically produced white wine, Chardonnay’s percentage jumps to 64.7% for an import/domestic average of 50.6% in dollars of all white wine consumed in the US. These numbers even include the ubiquitous and enthralling ‘White Zinfandel.’ Apparently wine consumers have not yet received the ‘Anything But’ memo?

With Chardonnay arguably the most popular variety in the world, many of the people who love it still find its taste difficult to describe and what exactly it is that they like about it. Chardonnay runs the gambit from producing top notch white Burgundies from the commune of Montrachet to mass-produced, million liter tanks of plonk. Perhaps one of the most overworked expressions about Chardonnay is that it is ‘the artist’s palate?’ More than any other grape variety, Chardonnay tends to express winemaking techniques every bit as much as its expresses its terroir. Many different winemaking options are available to show off Chardonnay’s versatility. Winemaking decisions to be considered are whether to crush the grapes or to whole-cluster press them, using indigenous or cultured yeasts, malo-lactic fermentation or no malo, to perform battonage, to age sur lie, to stainless steel or barrel ferment, and to age in oak (French or American) barrels, staves or chips, or to remain un-wooded.

Let me hit you with some knowledge: The latest DNA research shows that Chardonnay is the result of a chance crossing between a member of the Pinot family and an obscure, humble variety called Gouais Blanc in France and Weisser Hünisch in Germany.



One of the many places Chardonnay plays a pivotal role is in the production of top-quality sparkling wine, particularly in Champagne. Most champagne is blended with Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay, however Blanc de Blancs Champagne is made exclusively from Chardonnay. A fabulous Blanc de Blancs Champagne to try is the biodynamically grown Champagne Tarlant ‘Cuvee La Vigne d’Antan’ from the Marne Valley in Champagne. This cuvee is produced from 100% Chardonnay from ungrafted vines averaging 43 years in age. Wine making techniques used here are oak barrel fermentation, lees stirring, no malo and was kept in barrel for 6 months. It is silky, creamy, elegant and very complex. Look for it to arrive to the WW stores in December.


Champagne Tarlant ‘Cuvee La Vigne d’Antan’ Retail $59.99 Warehouse $49.99


The one wine region where Chardonnay is not overtly oaked by its many top producers is Chablis. Chablis has a cool climate with its latitude being almost as far north as Champagne while possessing the same type of limestone soil. Chablis wines tend to have much higher acidity and are lighter in body than those made on the Côte de Beaune, which is further south. We have some traditionally styled Premier and Grand Cru versions from Droin. The Droin family has been in Chablis since at least 1547. Jean-Paul Droin took over the Estate in 1983. Fermentation is done in tank and barrel, battonage and malo conversion are practiced. The characters here are direct, mineral and citrus. These wines seem almost chalky in character with a nice zingy green edge. The Montee de Tonnere (mountain of thunder) is the only Premier Cru on the Grand Cru slope. Droin Chablis ‘Vaillons’ PC 2004, Retail $28.99 Warehouse $21.99
Droin Chablis ‘Montee de Tonnere’ PC 2004, Retail $34.99 Warehouse $24.99
Droin Chablis ‘Vaudesir’ GC 2004, Retail $54.99 Warehouse $44.99

A few other Chardonnays that originate from further south in Burgundy:
Aubert de Villaine Bourgogne Blanc ‘Clous’ 2004, Retail $24.99 Warehouse $19.99
Robert Denogent Macon Solutre 2004, Retail $24.99 Warehouse $19.99

Aubert de Villaine is the proprietor of the Domaine de la Romanee Conti of which he is a partner, but has his own domaine further south just south of Beaune. De Villaine is farmed organically and has white wines that show beautiful restraint and minerality. This is the opposite of the wines of Robert Denogent. These Chardonnays come from further south still in the Macon region of Burgundy. These are powerful old world Chardonnays that make one stand up and take notice. Denogent’s Pouilly Fuisses are as serious as you get from the Macon. These Pouillys remind me of Meursault Premier Crus. The Macon Solutre is made in the same style but happen to be around half the price of the Pouillys. Denogent’s whites have power, viscosity, are bursting with fruits but have a minerality on the finish that brings one back to the old world.

NEW WORLD STYLES: California with its many meso and macro climates has the ability to produce a myriad of Chardonnay styles and qualities. There are many favorites to experiment with in our stores. Here are a few suggestions:

Wild Horse Chardonnay is produced from grapes grown in California’s Central Coast. The grapes were hand-harvested, whole cluster pressed, initial fermentation took place in stainless steel tanks with fermentation to be finished in oak barrels. Malo was encouraged on the must from its cooler climates to reduce acids and enhance mouthfeel. Battonage was practiced every other week on the sur lie aging. The wine is supple and stylish, with pear, lemon, floral and nicely integrated toasty oak nuances.

Wild Horse Chardonnay 2004, Retail $15.99 Warehouse $10.99

Calamity Chardonnay from Carneros in the Napa Valley has been a real favorite at the WW. Whole bunches were hand-picked at night to preserve its freshness and delivered cool and healthy to the winery. Whole cluster pressing which is a gentle process of separating the juice from its skins, helps to avoid the bitter tannins that might otherwise be extracted. The free-run juice was drained to French oak barrels where it remained until assemblage and bottling some 10 months later. No yeasts are added to the new juice the complexity and individuality provided by the indigenous, or "wild" yeasts that convert the sugar to alcohol. The secondary fermentation (malo), converting the hard malic acid to the softer lactic, is completed by a cultured bacteria imported from Burgundy. To broaden the palate and mouth-feel of the wine battonage was employed, a technique that involves stirring the yeast lees in each barrel on a regular basis. By keeping the lees in suspension the wine's pure fruit character is guarded against oxidation and the wine seems to put on some weight, or "fatness," as well as being less astringent and sharp. The wine was fined but not filtered. This Chardonnay is intense with flavors of ripe pears, peaches and appley fruit with spicy oak flavors that offer a measure of depth and complexity. The finish is crisp, clean and refreshing and ends with a touch of spice.

Calamity ‘Napa’ Chardonnay 2004, Retail $21.99 Warehouse $14.99 (check out our buy three and get one deal here)

Rutherford Hill is known for its Merlot but also produces a serious Chardonnay. Rutherford Hill Chardonnay was made by using cultured yeasts that they feel lead to healthier fermentations which allow Sur lie aging until the first racking 9 months after harvest. Battonage, occurred twice a month for extra body and complexity. No malo with oak aging The Wine Spectator seemed to like it: A lean, focused style with spicy pear, green apple and lemon meringue touches, with a flinty edge, finishing with lively acidity, a burst of citrus flavors and a dash of toasty oak. Drink now through 2007 90 pts

Rutherford Hill ‘Napa Valley’ Chardonnay 2002, Retail $18.99 Warehouse $14.99

Other ‘New World’ Chardonnays:

Australian Chardonnay is often associated with overt tropical fruit characters. Australian winemakers are proficient at producing Chardonnay bargains as they were the first to use oak chips to infuse inexpensive wines with some oak flavors to go with Chardonnay’s tropical fruit character. Bulletin Place has always been one of our favorite cheap and cheerful Aussie Chardonnays. For a more serious, cool climate version of Chardonnay from Australia one must take a serious look at Cape Mentelle’s Margaret River Chardonnay from 2003. Cape Mentelle’s techniques are two-fold with one lot machine harvested, crushed, must-chilled and pressed to stainless steel tanks for cold settling prior to racking off gross lees to another tank for inoculation with prise de mousse yeast Two to three days later the fermenting juice was racked to French oak barrels, nearly half of which were new and the remainder one and two years old. Another lot was elevated as whole bunches into a tank press where the juice was gently pressed into a holding tank. The juice was racked into barrel the following day for fermentation by indigenous yeast. Occasional battonage is carried out during the time in barrel.

Cape Mentelle 2003, Smooth, silky and subtle. Rich in flavor, but it feels refined as the peppery, ripe apple, pear and grapefruit flavors play themselves out, picking up welcome mineral notes as the finish lingers. Drink now through 2011. only 475 cases imported 91 pts Wine Spectator

Cape Mentelle Chardonnay 2003, Retail $24.99 Warehouse $19.99

Bulletin Place Chardonnay 2004, Retail $7.99 Warehouse $4.99

Chardonnay had been the most planted grape in New Zealand, but has now been overtaken by Sauvignon Blanc. This is a smart move considering the unique character and popularity of NZ SB. This is no slight on NZ Chardonnay. The clean, green and fresh apple character often come through on NZ Chardonnay. For a nice unwooded version of Chardonnay, you may want to try the Villa Maria Private Bin?

Villa Maria Unoaked ‘Private Bin’ Chardonnay ‘Hawkes Bay’ 2005, Retail $13.99 Warehouse $9.99

Certainly there are Chardonnays from other countries that are worth trying. A few faves are Hamilton Russell and Neil Ellis from South Africa, Montes and Veramonte from Chile and Famiglia Bianchi from Argentina.

Tally ho! Off to tonight’s Beaujolais Nouveau tasting at the Wine Warehouse…………….