‘Crunchy’ is as ‘crunchy’ does.

At a recent tasting at our Palmetto store, a gentleman came up to me and mentioned that he would like for us to carry more ‘organic’ wines. My ‘crunchy’ light-bulb went off and I very excitedly took the man on a tour of the store. At the Wine Warehouse you will see the ladybug sign dangling off of the end of shelf tags where it indicates that the wine is grown by organic, biodynamic or sustainable methods. There is a literal infestation of ladybugs currently roaming the shelves from a myriad of countries at your local Wine Warehouse.

Slowly but surely we are becoming a nation where the way your product was produced has a significant meaning in the marketplace. Currently at Chez Blogmeister, if you walk in my kitchen you will find organically grown products such as olive oil, low-fat yogurt, low-fat milk, blueberries, nuts, chicken, tomatoes, with fair-trade coffee being consumed by a fiscally conservative guy wearing Birkenstocks. Organic isn’t just at Whole Foods anymore as Publix has its ‘Greenwise’ section and even Walmart has an organic section. Say no more! Nudge, nudge. Organic is here to stay. The emergence of post WW2 agrochemicals is going full-circle and to pre-WW2 methods; organic.

The reduction of agrochemicals in grape farming can have many benefits. With chemical reduction on farms, winery workers are not subject to breathing these chemicals with the added benefit of no risk of any chemical residue making it into your wine. With less agrochemicals, the vine and the soil that it lives in is said to be healthier and more resistant to maladies. Depending on the vineyard site, it may be less expensive to farm without chemical treatments. Large wineries such as Gallo and Robert Mondavi have been moving some of their vineyards to organic farming in advance of impending health initiatives in California and with the thought of being able to benefit from the ability to be able to market an ‘organically grown’ product. Any reduction in potential liability for a corporation will be a benefit to both the corporation and its customers. Although I recently read somewhere that a labor group is now pushing synthetic weed-killers as they feel that too much bending over and pulling weeds can lead to sore backs and (get this) health issues. You see, there is a yin and a yang to every situation.

Healthy living is not just derived by the elimination of agrochemicals but by the sustainability of all of the things that we produce or consume during our day. I’m sure that you may have noticed various businesses including wineries looking to lessen their ‘carbon footprint’ on the planet. Select wineries are now employing solar panels for sustainable electricity, recycling winery wastewater, using less or no chemicals in the vineyard and are buying ‘carbon offsets’ to compensate for any shortfalls in their ‘carbon footprint’ on the planet. Is ‘crunchy’ important?

A recent survey reported by Decanter Magazine may refute the importance of a ‘healthy’ product to the average consumer.

According to Decanter Magazine, the majority of UK consumers do not care if their wine is organic or Fairtrade, and do not understand what biodynamic means. Market research firm Wine Intelligence asked 2000 regular wine drinkers for their views on wine that is produced with consideration to social, ethical and environmental issues.

Unlike organic and sustainably produced food – which respondents believe tastes better and merits a premium compared with non-organic food – wine has a perception problem: most respondents said they thought organically produced and Fairtrade wine would not taste good.

Remember…………….wine is food…………

Regardless of anyone’s skepticism as to the relative importance of green products to the consumer; we see many ‘green’ products selling at an increasing rate and ‘green’ habits beginning to be incorporated in our lives. Hybrid cars are currently all the rage; particularly at today’s current gasoline prices. I still dream of a local biodiesel station popping up in Jacksonville. I’d love to have my vehicle spewing the smell of French fries instead of petroleum. The quandary is whether my car might be a vegan and might prefer the more expensive soybean version of biodiesel as opposed to animal fat. Is ‘green’ here to stay? There are now departments for organic produce and nontoxic cleaning supplies at supermarkets, the Home Depot is selling energy-efficient light bulbs, paint that is low in pollutants and wood harvested according to the principles of sustainable forestry. Many cities are now recycling. Why not expect a ‘green’ choice to be available and promoted at your local wine store? Thus, the Wine Warehouse delivers you many ‘green’ choices in our stores.

Let’s get down to the ‘green’ wine basics:

Organic wine is produced from grapes grown in a vineyard that has been certified organic and processed according to the organic standards defined by the certifying agency of each country. This means that no chemical or artificial fertilizers, pesticides, herbicides or other treatments were used on the grapevines. In addition, the level of sulfites is naturally less than 10 parts per million as none have been added during winemaking. Genetically engineered yeast and vines are prohibited. You’ll see it called ecológico and biolóogico on Spanish bottles, organique or biologique on French bottles and organico on Italian bottles. No sulfur means not very stable. There are a few ‘organic wines’ available but can be a roll of the dice as to whether they are free from oxygen and a chance re-fermentation in the bottle.

The more common ‘made with organic grapes’ wine has been made using certified organically grown grapes. Genetically engineered yeast and vines are prohibited, but other winemaking techniques such as fining and filtering may be employed. Wine labeled “Made with organic grapes” may contain added sulfites.

Let’s look at a few organically grown wines from some recent blogs:

(France) Farmed organically,Vieux Telegraphe is one of the best known estates of the Southern Rhône. Vieux Télégraphe has 45 hectares of red grapevines planted, with an average age of around 55 years. Blessed with one of the finest locations in CDP, the mesoclimate enables the Bruniers to be able to harvest as much as a week ahead of their neighbours. Vieux Télégraphe's blend is a typical one in CDP, with Grenache accounting for around two thirds of the cuvee, with the remainder being made up of Syrah and Mourvèdre in roughly equal proportions, with a tiny bit of Cinsault thrown in for good measure.

Pure and silky, with raspberry, cocoa, truffle and mineral notes that glide along the fresh acidity. The long, silky finish lets the fruit and minerality hang nicely, with garrigue in the background. Should blossom in the cellar. Best from 2008 through 2025. 94pts Wine Spectator

Domaine Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf du Pape 2004, Retail $51.99 Warehouse $44.99

(South Africa) Tulbagh Mountain Vineyard Syrah/Mourvedre 2004; 85% Syrah 15% Mourvedre. Produced from yields of a mere .8 tons per acre, hand picked grapes are cooled in their cold room, then they are crushed and destemmed into tank, and 5% whole bunches are added. The must is pigeaged once a day. After about 4 days, fermentation begins, and the wine is pigeaged two to three times a day. Fermentation generally lasts from 7 to 10 days. After fermentation, a couple of weeks skin contact is given, and the wine is then drained and pressed to barrel. The wine was racked once at blending (after a year in barrel), and bottled after 22 months in barrel.

Nice Syrah-driven notes of black cherry and mineral, with good smoke, game, tobacco, olive and mineral hints. The rich, smoky finish shows power and purity, with fine length. Drink now through 2008. 1,175 cases made. – 90 points Wine Spectator

Tulbagh Mountain Vineyards Syrah-Mourvedre 2004, Retail $29.99 Warehouse $24.99

(France) Guy Breton’s Vielles Vignes Morgon 2005 cuvee is produced from grapes grown on 80 year old vines. Only 1700 cases are produced on average per year. (My review before the review)The 2005 sports a pretty shade of a cross between raspberry and red roses. I cannot escape the feeling that this wine is a dead ringer for Pinot Noir. Silky cranberry with a touch of blue fruits emerge on the palate. Character continues to expand in the glass. This wine will drink well now, but should keep well for at least a decade.

Bright red. High-pitched aromas of wild strawberry, raspberry preserves and fresh flowers. Intense floral pastille notes accent ripe red berry flavors, with suave, silky tannins adding gentle support. This deepened with air, picking up a darker cherry tone but maintaining its bright, energetic personality. Here's another Cote de Beaune ringer. 91 points Steve Tanzer

Guy Breton Morgon VV 2005, Retail $25.99 Warehouse $19.99

(France) Marcel Lapierre Morgon 2005. Marcel Lapierre farms 22 acres of 40 year old vines in Granitic soil. Production averages around 3500 cases per year. (My review before the review) This is the flashiest of the ‘Gang’ showing a vibrant black-cherry color with a rich, meaty, raspberry nose. The palate shows the structure of a fine Pinot Noir with enticing aromatics of raspberry and blueberries. Serious stuff! Continues to gain aromatics and flavor in the glass.

Dark red with a bright rim. Lush, sexy aromas of raspberry, blackberry and Asian spices. Deep and rich on the palate, offering intense dark fruit flavors, a plush texture and gentle framing acidity. Very sexy stuff, finishing on a sweet black raspberry note, with outstanding depth and length. 92 points Steve Tanzer

Marcel Lapierre Morgon 2005, Retail $24.99 Warehouse $16.99

Some other organic producers to look for in the WW:

Domaine Kuentz-Bas
A&P de Villaine
Champagne Tarlant
Chateau Beaucastel
Perrin ‘Nature’

Biodynamic may be the most mysterious practice of all as Biodynamic wine is made from grapes grown according to the method based on the teachings of Austrian Rudolf Steiner. Soil is kept healthy and vital with the use of compost and manure produced on-site as well as planting in timing with the phases of the moon. Chemical and synthetic herbicides, fungicides, pesticides, hormones, antibiotics and genetically modified organisms are strictly prohibited in the winemaking process.

Biodynamics has become notorious for seemingly bizarre practices like filling cow horns with dung and burying them in vineyards and aligning certain chores with phases of the moon and stars. Some scientific studies have shown that biodynamics can be effective even if the underlying reasons for this are not yet understood. No matter what, the quality has to be good or biodynamics does not matter.

How about a biodynamic wine at less than 7 bucks with a 90 in Parker?

(Spain) Vinedos y Bodegas Pablo is a family-owned estate, founded in 1760, emphasizing the use of indigenous varietals and biodynamic farming. This is an impressive portfolio from top to bottom. For starters is the unoaked 2005 Menguante Garnacha produced from 80-year-old vines. Purple in color, it exhibits a fragrant nose of kirsch and blueberry. Medium-bodied, this wine is packed with ripe fruit and layers of flavor all the way through to the finish. This awesome value can be likened to a Cotes du Rhone on steroids. Kudos to the Pablo family! 90 points Wine Advocate.

Menguante Garnacha 2005, Retail $8.99 Warehouse $6.99

Some other Biodynamic producers to look for in the WW:

Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Domaine Bott-Geyl
Champagne Bruno Michel
Champagne Franck Pascal
Champagne Francoise Bedel

Lutte Raisonee or ‘Sustainable’ is a French term loosely meaning “rational control” or “well thought-out fight” intended to protect both nature and the consumer from unnecessary crop treatments. Growing lutte raisonnée favors sustainable solutions for the eradication of pests and plant disease. Wines produced lutte raisonnée are not certified organic and can include synthetic treatments; however, they are kept to a minimum. In the New World, lutte raisonnée is called INTEGRATED PEST MANAGEMENT and can be certified by L.I.V.E. (Low Input Viticulture & Enology), a program providing vineyards and wineries official recognition for sustainable agricultural practices modeled after international standards. LOW-SULFITE OR NO ADDED SULFITES refers to wines that have less than 10 parts sulfites per million. Sulfites are a natural product of fermentation and there are no truly “sulfite-free” wines. Certified organic wines are naturally low-sulfite as no added sulfites have been used in the production. Contrary to what many people think, white wines generally contain higher levels of sulfites than reds. Even though sulfur has been used in winemaking for centuries and is a natural product, is effective as a sterilant, an anti-oxidative and antimicrobial; in order to be an organic wine, there must be less than 10 ppm of total sulfur in the finished wine. Modern winemaking techniques have allowed wineries to limit their use of sulfur in winemaking.

Many of the wines from Villa Maria in New Zealand and Cono Sur in Chile are farmed using sustainable methods.

Some other sustainable producers to look for in the WW:

Domaine Francois Jobard
Domaine Guy Amiot
Domaine Lucien Boillot
Domaine Maume
Domaine Michel Colin
Domaine Robert Denogent
Champagne J. Lassalle
Chateau Ducasse
Graville-Lacoste
Roumieu-Lacoste

Please excuse the longer than usual blog. ‘Green’ farmed grapes are a subject that is very near and dear to our hearts at the Wine Warehouse. Be on the lookout for many new ‘green’ offerings in the near future.

Santé, Dude!

The recipe for a smokin’ Memorial Day: four for the ‘grillmeister’

Start your engines. This weekend is the official kick-off to grilling season. Many in our office have just finished their annual detox fast this week. Their fasts ended just in time as it would be a shame for them to miss the Memorial Day BBQ. Hope their systems will be back in form as this is not the weekend for brown rice and vegetable broth.

Memorial Day is worthy of a serious red wine or two. Let’s look at ‘four fab’ wines from four different countries that are ‘worthy.'

USA-California: From the home-front, Joey Tensley went to France as a young man to experience his first love; soccer. This trip to France launched Joey's interest in wine with his focus now shifting away from the stadium and into the cellar.

Tensley’s approach to making all of his wines is straightforward; he makes the best possible Syrah he can while letting the vineyard do the talking. Tensley doesn’t like new oak, he doesn’t like to fine or filter, and he doesn’t try to fit his wines into any specific profile.

The current line-up at Tensley includes 3 single vineyard Syrahs from Santa Barbara County vineyards – Colson Canyon, Purisima Mountain, and Thompson. The Colson Canyon vineyard was carved out of a hillside east of Santa Maria and it produces the most expressive wine in the line-up. The Colson Canyon is the only Tensley wine that sports any new oak (25%). Any fan of California Syrah will need to give this wine a try.

Please be aware that this is The Wine Advocate’s review for the 2004 Tensley. By the time the 2005 review is out this wine will be long gone. Have a little faith. We’ve tried it. The 2005 is killer! Small production Syrah…BBQ anyone? The stunning, 800-case 2004 Syrah Colson Canyon Vineyard is the only cuvee to receive a 20-30% new French oak treatment. The Colson Canyon offers an inky/blue/purple color as well as aromas of graphite, blackberries, blueberries, and acacia flowers. Full-bodied, unctuously textured, rich, pure, and dense, this superb Syrah should drink well for a decade or more. 93pts Wine Advocate

Tensley ‘Colson Canyon’ Syrah 2005, Retail $39.99 Warehouse $29.99

Australia: From Padthway, Parson’s Flat is a blend of 70% Shiraz and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon from the same team that runs Henry’s Drive. The wine is aged in 100% American oak, of which 80% is new. The vines average 12 years of age and are harvested at perfect ripeness. This is just one of many Grateful Palate Selections that makes one stand up and take notice.

It is an in-your-face, exuberant, flamboyant Aussie red boasting loads of espresso roast, toasty oak, blackberries, cassis, and licorice. Full-bodied, opulent, and voluptuous, with oodles of glycerin and depth, this hussy requires drinking during its first 7-8 years of life, although it may last even longer. 93pts Wine Advocate

Parson’s Flat Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon 2004, Retail $44.99 Warehouse $34.99

Spain: Ribera del Duero can often seem like a Rioja on steroids. Ribera del Duero is home of famous wineries such as Vega Sicilia and Pesquera. There is a new guard coming into Ribera on these winery's coattails and are making a splash in the pool of highly sought after wines. Mariano Garcia who was the former winemaker of Vega Sicilia, and Javier Zaccagnini, former President of the governing body of the Ribera del Duero AOC met and decided to give birth to Aalto in 1998. The first wine from the estate was from the 1999 vintage.

The Aalto property has vines in three different sub-zones of Ribera del Duero with a total of 32 hectares (1ha=2.48 acres) scattered between Valladolid and Burgos. The parcels are planted to old clones of Tinto Fino. Aalto continues to buy exceptional parcels of old Tinto Fino, most recently a 10 hectare plot in Quemada of 60+ year old vines of exceptional quality. Some people believe that Tinto Fino is not far removed from Tempranillo, however many experts based in Ribera del Duero believe that there are significant differences between Tempranillo and Tinto Fino, particularly when you find old-vine Tinto Fino with over 50 years of age on it. As stated in my last blog, Spain is and continues to be ‘en fuego.’ Old vine Tinto Fino can make some serious wine.

The 2003 Aalto is a purple-colored wine offering a stylish nose of smoke, toast, graphite, blueberry, and blackberry liqueur. On the palate it is medium to full-bodied, ripe, but slightly compact and the finish is firm. 92pts Wine Advocate

Aalto’Aalto’ Ribera del Duero 2003, Retail $54.99 Warehouse $39.99

France: Farmed organically,Vieux Telegraphe is one of the best known estates of the Southern Rhône. Vieux Télégraphe has 45 hectares of red grapevines planted, with an average age of around 55 years. Blessed with one of the finest locations in CDP, the mesoclimate enables the Bruniers to be able to harvest as much as a week ahead of their neighbours. Vieux Télégraphe's blend is a typical one in CDP, with Grenache accounting for around two thirds of the cuvee, with the remainder being made up of Syrah and Mourvèdre in roughly equal proportions, with a tiny bit of Cinsault thrown in for good measure.

Pure and silky, with raspberry, cocoa, truffle and mineral notes that glide along the fresh acidity. The long, silky finish lets the fruit and minerality hang nicely, with garrigue in the background. Should blossom in the cellar. Best from 2008 through 2025. 94pts Wine Spectator

Domaine Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf du Pape 2004, Retail $51.99 Warehouse $44.99

I send out a personal salute to all troops both past and present. We’ll be toasting them with a formidable red this weekend. Hope you have a nice Memorial Day. Cheers!

Spain is Frontier-land too…

Spanish wines are and continue to be ‘en fuego.’ As evidence of the ‘hotness’ of the category, it seems like a new Spanish importer makes a call to us every week. There is plenty of wine in Spain and now plenty of importers in the US pushing the wines. The positive aspect of all this attention is the rediscovery of Spain’s indigenous grape varietals. Grapes such as Mencia and Godello grown in Bierzo, Verdejo in Rueda, Albarino in Rias Baixas and Prieto Picudo in Tierras de Leon are now available and on the shelves in your local Wine Warehouse store. The sign posted as I leave my local yoga studio is ‘Simplify.’ This is a fantastic concept when dealing with modern life but one that I tend to stray from when it comes to the world of wine. Exploring new producers and varieties is what keeps the world of wine fresh and interesting even if there is a degree of complexity added.

One Spanish importer who caught our eye is Frontier Wine Imports. This company was founded by Tom George seventeen years ago and has a fantastic selection of wines from around Spain. Tom and his right-hand-man Xabier are focused on the unique character, quality and value that can be unearthed in Spain by a discerning eye. You can meet Xabier in our Jacksonville Hendricks Avenue store this Tuesday, in Palmetto on Wednesday and in Winter Park on Thursday. He’ll be pouring a nice selection of the Frontier portfolio. Now, on to the wines…

Laxas Albarino. Rias Baixas is the home of some of Spain's most expressive white wines. Located directly north of Portugal, the Albariño vines are grown in a high ‘pergola’ trellis to prevent direct contact with the humid tall grass and the subsequent risk of diseases. Growers have to compensate for the Galicia region having the highest rainfall in Spain coupled with sparse amounts of sunlight. Albarino can have the freshness of a crisp Sauvignon Blanc with the complexity and flavors of a nice Viognier.

The Laxas Albarino exhibits hints of honeysuckle, orange rind, and apricots that can often confuse one when blind tasting. These descriptors are very similar to those found in Viognier based wines such as Condrieu. Texturally the wine is medium-bodied, with fresh acidity, and abundant fruit - a perfect wine for summer weather.

Laxas Albarino 2006, Retail $17.99 Warehouse $11.99

Abad dom Bueno Godello. Situated between rainy Galicia and sunny Castile, Bierzo has a humid and mild climate, influenced by the Atlantic with abundant sunshine. The region's vineyards lie at 400 to 800 meters high, sheltered by the Montes de Leon and the Cordillera Cantábrica. The specialty of Bierzo's slopes and terraces is the Mencía grape which yields fruity reds with a spicy character. On the same slopes one can find the Godello grape, which can produce delicious fresh wines with fresh citrus and mineral notes.

The Abad dom Bueno Godello has fresh tropical fruit character with delicately perfumed aromas. Texturally the wine carries the weight of a nice, medium bodied, un-wooded Chardonnay. This wine has absolutely fresh and pure primary fruit characteristics.

Abad dom Bueno ‘Godello’ 2006, Retail $13.99 Warehouse $9.99

Pardevalles Gamonal. Vinos de Leon is a traditional wine making region that is seeing its rebirth with new winemaking technology and advances in viticulture which allow for the indigenous Prieto Picudo grape to be grown to its full potential. The Prieto Picudo vine is know as a Variedad Rastrera, due to the fact that if left on its own, it will grow its branches towards the soil. This situation leaves the grapes to mature while laying literally on the sandy-clay soils. Currently they are implementing trellis systems to optimally ripen the grape. Bodegas Pardevalles has the Prieto Picudo’s oldest existing trellised vineyards in the world.

The Pardevalles winery, located in the new D.O. of Tierras de Leon (created in 2005), works exclusively with the indigenous Prieto Picudo grape. The 2005 Gamonal, which was aged for 6 months in a mixture of new and used French and American oak, is purple-colored with an excellent nose of vanilla, blueberry and blackberry. This is followed by a medium to full-bodied, elegant wine with ripe, sweet fruit and enough structure for 2-3 years of further evolution. 90 points Wine Advocate.

Pardavalles Gamonal 2005, Retail $17.99 Warehouse $13.99

Grand Viu and Menguante. Wine has been made in the Cariñena region since the Roman Empire. The vineyards lie at the foothills of the Iberico mountain range between 500 and 800 meters above sea level. The region has a continental climate with extreme diurnal variations, and soils consisting of limestone, chalk, and slate with alluvial deposits. The region of Cariñena predominantly grows the Garnacha grape varietal with paradoxically the Cariñena (Carignan) grape variety that originated here accounting for less than 10 percent of the region's production. The wines from the Pablo family received many kudos in the Wine Advocate as you will see from the reviews below.

The 2002 Gran Viu Garnacha del Terreno is an outstanding effort in a difficult vintage. Made from 100% Garnacha aged 22 months in one-year-old French oak and bottled unfiltered, this full-bodied, showy, purple-colored wine offers fragrant aromas of kirsch, vanilla bean, and blueberry. This is followed by intense, layered cherry and blueberry fruit nicely concealing the moderate but silky tannins. The finish is long and pure. Kudos to the Pablo family! 91 points Wine Advocate.

Grand Viu Garnacha del Terreno 2002, Retail $47.99 Warehouse $34.99

A blend of Garnacha, Cabernet Sauvignon, Tempranillo, and Syrah. It spent 12 months in used French and American oak and was bottled unfiltered. Purple in color and already emitting complex aromatics after 5 years in bottle, there are expressive scents of spice box, forest floor, earth, meat, and blue fruits. Medium to full-bodied, the wine has layers of ripe, concentrated fruit, supple tannins, and superb balance straight through to the 45-second finish. Drink this superb effort over the next decade. It is also an excellent value. Kudos to the Pablo family! 92 points Wine Advocate.

Grand Viu Seleccion 2001, Retail $27.99 Warehouse $21.99

Vinedos y Bodegas Pablo is a family-owned estate, founded in 1760, emphasizing the use of indigenous varietals and biodynamic farming. This is an impressive portfolio from top to bottom. For starters is the unoaked 2005 Menguante Garnacha produced from 80-year-old vines. Purple in color, it exhibits a fragrant nose of kirsch and blueberry. Medium-bodied, this wine is packed with ripe fruit and layers of flavor all the way through to the finish. This awesome value can be likened to a Cotes du Rhone on steroids. Kudos to the Pablo family! 90 points Wine Advocate.

Menguante Garnacha 2005, Retail $8.99 Warehouse $6.99

Lorca Monastrell. With a desert-like climate and at an altitude of 400 to 800 meters high, Bullas is known for its arid conditions and diurnal temperature swings. These are the ideal conditions for the Monastrell grape. Monastrell is the same grape as Mataro and Mourvedre. Modern winemaking methods are now employed here such as precision picking times, shorter and newer oaking regimes and temperature control in the cellar. Bullas has the highest elevation of any Monastrell based region which leads to higher acidity and more elegance in the grapes. The Bullas region is on the cutting edge of Monstrell production.

The Lorca Monastrell is dark ruby in color with a fruity nose of raspberry and cherry with lively bright and chewy fruit. It is a very tasty wine for every day drinking.

Lorca Monastrell 2006, Retail $9.99 Warehouse $7.99

The Lorca Monastrell Rose is extremely fresh, has bright strawberry fruit characteristics yet finishes dry with refreshing acidity. BBQ anyone?

Lorca Monastrell Rose 2006, Retail $9.99 Warehouse $7.99

The modern Cubo Tempranillo is grown in the land of Don Quixote; La Mancha. La Mancha is the largest denomination of origin in the world with 180,000 hectares (2.48 acres/ha) under vine. The region is spread across an immense plateau with average height of 700 meters above sea level. La Mancha has an extreme continental climate which forces vintners to space the vines 2.5 meters apart to compensate for the limited moisture during the growing season. Despite La Mancha's reputation for inexpensive rustic wines, the best bodegas have shown that by using modern wine-making techniques and premium varieties, that they can also produce some very fine wines.

Cubo Tempranillo 2006, Retail $8.99 Warehouse $6.99

Pedro Romero Sherries. These extremely value-priced sherries originate from the village of Sanlucar de Barrameda, which is known to produce higher acid sherries than those from the more famous town of Jerez. There are two basic style of sherry, Fino and Oloroso, with all of the others being offshoots of these. The principal difference between the Dry and Medium Dry Amontillado (Amontillado is a lightly oxidized Fino style) is that latter has had 10% Pedro Ximinez added as a sweetening agent. The principal difference between the Dry Oloroso, the Medium Dry Oloroso, and the Cream (an Oloroso style) is that latter two have had 20% and 40% Pedro Ximinez added to the base Oloroso respectively. The drier styles are often served with meals or as aperitifs, with the sweeter styles (Moscatel and Pedro Ximinez) being served at the end of meals with dessert.

‘The Pedro Romero Sherries are well made at a great price that merits serious consumer interest.’ The Wine Advocate

Manzanilla Aurora
Fino and Manzanilla are dry wines produced from a maturing process without oxygen under permanent Flor yeast that develops in the barrel. The wine spends approximately 9 years in a ‘criadera’ aging process to reach its optimum maturity and complexity. Only 15% alcohol.

The light to medium-bodied, dry, fresh, aromatic Manzanilla Aurora is a terrific example of a crisp yet flavorful dry sherry that would work well with Japanese sushi or Spain’s delicious black ham. 90 points Wine Advocate.

Pedro Romero Manzanilla ‘Aurora’ 500ml, Retail $10.99 Warehouse $7.99

The Fino Pale Dry is fresh, lively, and intensely flavored. 88 points Wine Advocate

Pedro Romero Fino, Retail $10.99 Warehouse $7.99

Other Pedro Romero sherries:

Dry Oloroso 91 points Wine Advocate

Pedro Romero Dry Oloroso, Retail $10.99 Warehouse $7.99

The Amontillado Dry Rich, which is an oxidized style of Fino, exhibits an amber color along with plenty of roasted nut and citrus characteristics. 90 points Wine Advocate.

Pedro Romero Dry Rich Amontillado, Retail $10.99 Warehouse $7.99

Pedro Romero Cream 89 points Wine Advocate

Pedro Romero Cream Sherry, Retail $10.99 Warehouse $7.99

This Moscatel is a medium amber-tinged, exotic sherry revealing hints of marmalade, tropical fruits, and a splash of maple syrup. 91 points Wine Advocate

Pedro Romero Moscatel, Retail $10.99 Warehouse $8.99

Pedro Ximenez 91 points Wine Advocate

Pedro Romero Pedro Ximenez, Retail $24.99 Warehouse $19.99

Why not finish this trip to Spain with a little fizz? Originating from the largest single estate in Penedes are the wines from the Sumarroca family. Penedes is not only the most prominent Cava area, but is also the base for such serious red wines as Torres Grand Coronas. This Cava is fashioned from the tradition varieties of Parellada 42%, Xarel lo 24%, Macabeo 27% with the non-traditional Chardonnay 7% added.

Aged for two years on its yeast lees, this fresh, light-bodied and creamy non-vintage Brut Reserva offers hints of peaches as well as small pinpoint bubbles.

Sumarroca Brut Cava nv, Retail $13.99 Warehouse $9.99

It’s worth doing your own ‘Lewis and Clark’ on the Spanish ‘Frontier.’

A new star from the Cape is on the rise, only at a WW near you…..

"I'd go so far as to say that this is one of the most exciting new wineries I've come across in the past decade" (Tim Atkin MW, April 2006)


"A new South African Star" (Jancis Robinson MW, November 2006)


“TMV has a Syrah-Mourvèdre blend offering lilting violet, sanguine and black currant notes with a gorgeous mouthfeel” (James Molesworth Wine Spectator, March 2007)

“TMV, walk it out….” (DJ UNK)


Last year at Cape Wine 2006 in Cape Town, good friend Richard Kelley, M.W. insisted that I visit an up and coming producer that he represents. We met with winemakers Chris Mullineux and Andrea Kozlowski of Tulbagh Mountain Vineyard. Richard boasted that TMV was doing all the right things in the vineyard and the winery. He was right. The wines showed extremely well. The kicker was when they said that their vineyard was farmed organically. We tend to be closet hippies at the Wine Warehouse. Organic is the future. You can easily spot our organic or biodynamically farmed wines by looking for the ladybug tag under the wine’s price tag. There are quite a few ladybug tags roaming in your local Wine Warehouse.

Tulbagh Mountain Vineyards philosophy consists of uncompromising quality and minimal intervention in both the vineyard and the cellar. Their aim is to create exceptional wine in small quantities that gains character from the environment of the vineyard, the soil, the climate and the growing conditions or its ‘terroir.’ TMV’s estate vines are grown strictly to organic principals because they believe that is the only way that vines can truly reflect the character of the soil. Only yeasts naturally occurring in the vineyard and winery are used in fermentation. Naturally occurring yeasts tend to ferment out slower and offer unique flavors that commercial yeasts may not. Slower ferments tend to equate to a richer impression on the palate.

TMV’s estate vineyard is isolated and therefore ideal for organic farming. An almost constant dry wind keeps disease pressure low. The vineyard is between 400m and 500m elevation and being high up on the mountainside it is cooler than the valley floor. This is an important factor as temperature drops 1.8 degrees Fahrenheit for every 100 meters of elevation. In a warm, inland valley the elevation is a nice mitigation to warm temperatures. The cooling influence allows for greater phenolic (compounds in the skins) ripeness while sugar levels are still moderate.

Organic farming helps to keep these soils healthy and balanced. No herbicides, insecticides or fungicides are used in the vineyard. Cover crops are used in lieu of synthetic fertilizers. Biodiversity is encouraged in order to achieve a natural balance of microbial soil life and insect life. Many herbs and other plants are planted to attract beneficial insects. ‘Minimal intervention’ is practiced with only organically certified applications.

Why does wine express terroir more completely under organic viticulture? Vines need nutrients for growth. Nutrients exist in soil, rock and air, but vines themselves cannot break down rock or assimilate nutrients from mineral or gaseous forms – they need some form of help. In natural, living soils this help comes from microbes that release acids, breaking down rock and soils, and thus releasing nutrients. In conventional farming soils are essentially dead from all the pesticides, fungicides and herbicides used. Nutrients have to be added in the form of fertilizers, and vines easily and rapidly take up these simple salts to use as their basis for growth. Nutrients from soil microbes are derived from, and are a reflection of the soils the vines grow in.

Low intervention cellar techniques are used and all additives used in the winemaking process are allowed under organic standards. No acid or chemicals are used in the vinification process and only minimal amount of natural sulfur.

The cellar is located within the actual vineyard and was designed to allow small batch fermentation and hand pigeage (punching down), as well as the greatest possible gravity flow. The maturation cellar is split into three separate humidity and temperature controlled areas. The wine is matured over a 2 year period in 100% French oak barrels. No filtration or fining takes place.

Experimentation is one of the keys to being a winery on the ‘cutting edge.’ New and innovative “Oeuf” or egg-shaped tanks from Burgundy are now being experimented with at TMV because their shape allows currents to be created inside, which ensure good mixing and suspension of yeast in the must as it ferments. The cement is a good insulator. Towards the end of fermentation temperatures are maintained and the yeasts are able to finish fermentation without the need of any aid. Some biodynamic growers believe that the egg shape has creative forces which make for more complex wine. Whoa…. dude!

James Molesworth of The Wine Spectator recently visited Tulbagh Mountain Vineyard. His impression of the vineyard is as follows: ‘The TMV vineyards are on pre-schist soils made from blonde-colored decomposed granite and shale, and are a dead ringer for some spots on Côte-Rôtie.’

TMV Viktoria 2004
82% Syrah, 11% Cinsault; 7% Cabernet Sauvignon. Hand picked grapes from vines producing less than three tons per acre are cooled, where after they are crushed and destemmed into tank, and 5% whole bunches are added to the Syrah and Cinsault. 30% of the cinsault juice is bled off to concentrate flavor. The Syrah and Cinsault musts are pigeaged, and the cabernet is given remontage (pumped over) once a day. This wine spent 17 months in French oak and was bottled unfiltered.

Dark in color, but with the aromas of a mature Pinot Noir--sous-bois and dried cherry. Gains depth on the back end with supple plum and sweet spice notes. Syrah, Cinsault and Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now. 666 cases made. 87pts Wine Spectator

Tulbagh Mountain Vineyard ‘Viktoria’ 2004, Retail $19.99 Warehouse $16.99

Tulbagh Mountain Vineyard Syrah/Mourvedre 2004
85% Syrah 15% Mourvedre. Produced from yields of a mere .8 tons per acre, hand picked grapes are cooled in their cold room, then they are crushed and destemmed into tank, and 5% whole bunches are added. The must is pigeaged once a day. After about 4 days, fermentation begins, and the wine is pigeaged two to three times a day. Fermentation generally lasts from 7 to 10 days. After fermentation, a couple of weeks skin contact is given, and the wine is then drained and pressed to barrel. The wine was racked once at blending (after a year in barrel), and bottled after 22 months in barrel.

Nice Syrah-driven notes of black cherry and mineral, with good smoke, game, tobacco, olive and mineral hints. The rich, smoky finish shows power and purity, with fine length. Drink now through 2008. 1,175 cases made. – 90 points Wine Spectator

Tulbagh Mountain Vineyards Syrah-Mourvedre 2004, Retail $29.99 Warehouse $24.99

Head to the mountains; Tulbagh Mountain that is.

Alert the troops! The third party endorsement has arrived….

As much as the Wine Warehouse appreciates a published wine review by a national publication, the majority of wines that we purchase are in advance of or in spite of a third party endorsement. The most interesting wines in the world are often limited production gems that will not wait for a review to be purchased. Certainly we pride ourselves on having the insight to judge whether a wine is worth selling in our stores whether it has a review or not. We like to feel that our wines are intelligently chosen. It’s always nice though when one’s prognostication rings true with a reviewer. Steve Tanzer of The International Wine Cellar has just come out with his reviews on the Cru Beaujolais wines from 2005.

Please don’t be frightened about spending more than $10 on a wine from Beaujolais. Small production, estate bottled Beaujolais from one of the ten Beaujolais Crus can be an eye opening and mind blowing experience if one’s only exposure to Beaujolais takes place on the third Thursday in November at a Beaujolais Nouveau party. These Cru Beaujolais can have a closer resemblance to a nice Pinot Noir wine than their more common Gamay brethren

Let me hit you with some knowledge: the ten Crus of Beaujolais from north to south are in approximate terms: St Amour, Julienas, Chenas, Moulin A Vent, Fleurie, Chiroubles, Morgon, Regnie, Brouilly and Cote de Brouilly. Like all Beaujolais they must be produced from 100% Gamay grapes and must be hand harvested.


The four Cru Beaujolais that we are featuring are a pure as you are going to see, with more character than one will find in a simple Beaujolais. It is best to ship and store them cool to retain their fresh qualities so the WW brings these wines in on a refrigerated container and we house the wines at 63 degrees Fahrenheit in our warehouse. On to the wines....

Guy Breton’s Vielles Vignes Morgon 2005 cuvee is produced from grapes grown on 80 year old vines. Only 1700 cases are produced on average per year. (My review before the review)The 2005 sports a pretty shade of a cross between raspberry and red roses. I cannot escape the feeling that this wine is a dead ringer for Pinot Noir. Silky cranberry with a touch of blue fruits emerge on the palate. Character continues to expand in the glass. This wine will drink well now, but should keep well for at least a decade.

Bright red. High-pitched aromas of wild strawberry, raspberry preserves and fresh flowers. Intense floral pastille notes accent ripe red berry flavors, with suave, silky tannins adding gentle support. This deepened with air, picking up a darker cherry tone but maintaining its bright, energetic personality. Here's another Cote de Beaune ringer. 91 points Steve Tanzer
Guy Breton Morgon VV 2005, Retail $25.99 Warehouse $19.99

Domaine Diochon Moulin-a-Vent Cuvee Vieilles Vignes 05, Domaine Diochon is produced from 50 year old vines grown on granite and sandstone soils. Diochon’s wines are hand harvested, traditional carbonic maceration in temperature controlled vats and aged in large oak foudres for six months before bottling.

'The superb ripening and harvest gave perfect grapes, and Diochon made the most of it. Old vines, granite slopes, aged in foudre, bottled unfiltered, Diochon plus Moulin-à-Vent is quite a combo. The fruit is gorgeous, a real treat, and the wine shows remarkable finesse for its appellation.' Kermit Lynch’s notes.

Bright red. Intense raspberry and strawberry aromas are given an exotic twist by notes of black tea, mocha and dried rose. Full and lush, with sweet red berry and cherry flavors, supple tannins and impressive power on the aftertaste. A big, polished wine that marries power and finesse. I recently drank a bottle of this from 1989 and it was gorgeous. 92 points Steve Tanzer

Diochon Moulin A Vent VV 2005, Retail $21.99 Warehouse $16.99

Jean Foillard Morgon Cote du Py, Foillard farms a mere 13 acres of vines that range from 10-90 years in age. Traditional hand harvesting, carbonic maceration and a minimum of sulfur are used. This wine is stellar.

Bright red. Suave, seductive nose features vibrant, floral-accented raspberry and wild strawberry aromas that deepen with air, taking a liqueur-like turn but remaining fresh. Lush, silky and sweet in the mouth, offering an energetic display of red berry and cherry flavors, gentle tannins and superb persistence. This has really extraordinary concentration, clarity and finesse. 93 points Steve Tanzer

Foillard Morgon 2005, Retail $24.99 Warehouse $19.99

Marcel Lapierre Morgon 2005. Marcel Lapierre farms 22 acres of 40 year old vines in Granitic soil. Production averages around 3500 cases per year. (My review before the review) This is the flashiest of the ‘Gang’ showing a vibrant black-cherry color with a rich, meaty, raspberry nose. The palate shows the structure of a fine Pinot Noir with enticing aromatics of raspberry and blueberries. Serious stuff! Continues to gain aromatics and flavor in the glass.

Dark red with a bright rim. Lush, sexy aromas of raspberry, blackberry and Asian spices. Deep and rich on the palate, offering intense dark fruit flavors, a plush texture and gentle framing acidity. Very sexy stuff, finishing on a sweet black raspberry note, with outstanding depth and length. 92 points Steve Tanzer

Lapierre Morgon 2005, Retail $24.99 Warehouse $16.99

Please note that even though I have openely compared these wines to Pinot Noir, they are produced exclusively from the Gamay grape. Onward and upward, I always say. Take the time to slightly chill one of these Cru Beaujolais and enjoy its refreshing fruit and seductive complexity now that we're hitting the warmer weather. Twenty to thirty minutes in the fridge will do.