Domo arigato, Senore Zenato….

Dennis De Young of Styx will be making a pass through town here later this year and I figured it was worth some sort of a shout-out. My apologies for this blog being a little top heavy on the prices, but you will get an idea why they have to charge what they charge for these wines after we discuss the winemaking methods. Apparently shrinkage and opportunity cost affects wine prices too. Now that the weather is getting a little chillier here in Florida we can begin to think about heartier red wines again. Let's talk Amarone!

Amarone is the most famous of Italy’s dry styled, dried grape wines. Historically Amarone was produced from some of the same grape varieties and in the same production zone as Valpolicella. Amarone has recently applied for DOCG status to ensure that it is made solely from the superior Corvina and Corvinone varieties, which together can comprise between 40 and 80 per cent of the blend, together with 5–30 per cent of the lesser Rondinella.

Let me hit you with some knowledge: Amarone is made from selected, superior quality, whole grape bunches which are dried essentially to large raisins in special drying lodges. Traditionally the grapes were spread out on mats or wickerwork shelving, or strung up from the ceiling. Today most producers pick the grapes directly into slatted packing cases, stack these cases on a pallet and then transport them to a drying room controlled for temperature and humidity.

There has been a tendency to shorten the drying period in recent years, as the new drying rooms have proved more efficient not only in drying the grapes but also in preventing the development of any botrytis rot, something that is essential to control by all quality-conscious producers. The aim in the production of Amarone is to realize in the finished wine the intensity of color, flavor, and tannin in the dried grapes. As all of these components reside in the skins, anything like botrytis that degrades the skins diminishes the intensity and purity of the wine. The drying process achieves more than dehydration; it also results in a metabolization of the acids in the grape and a polymerization of tannins in the skins, something that explains the richness yet balance of good Amarone.

The use of drying rooms has also enabled producers to reduce the levels of alcohol to around 15 per cent while sacrificing none of the power and intensity that characterize good Amarone.After the drying process is finished, the grapes are crushed and fermented dry. Since the grapes lose about 50 per cent of their liquid during the drying process, the must is quite rich, so fermentation is slow to start. This can cause problems with higher than normal levels of acetic acid if the producer is not careful.

Traditionally, Amarone would have been aged in large casks made from Slovenian oak. Today, most of the best producers age at least part of their Amarone in French oak barrels to encourage the development of supple tannins, with smooth and complex flavors.Much more important for quality than the drying process is the provenance of the grapes. In 1990, Amarone comprised only eight percent of total Valpolicella production, while in 2003 this figure had risen to 25 per cent. With DOCG status, there will be strict standards across the region.

As Amarone is a big wine by itself, it is traditionally drunk with game, roasted and grilled meats, hearty dishes, casseroles and well matured cheeses. There is a school of thought that feels that Amarone has a distinctive flavor which can also accompany exotic sweet and sour dishes and is also suited for drinking with Asian and Middle-Eastern dishes. Regardless, serve slightly chilled to mitigate the higher level of alcohol and open the bottle an hour before the meal to soften the wine.

The Azienda Zenato is owned by the Zenato family. Sergio Zenato founded it in 1960 and has poured his efforts into the land by experimenting with new vineyard plantings.

Zenato Amarone is made from 80% Corvina, 10% Rondinella, 5% Molinara and 5% Sangiovese grapes grown in the Valpolicella Classico zone, in the communes of Sant’Ambrogio, Negrar, Pedemonte, Fumane, San Pietro in Cariano and Marano. The grapes are picked into small, 2.5 kg trays, where they are cleaned and placed on drying mats for 4 months in dry, well-ventilated rooms. In January they are finally crushed, then very slowly fermented on the skins; the wine goes into 300-litre French barrels and Slavonian oak barrels for maturation, followed by a year’s ageing in bottle before release.

Zenato Amarone 2001, Retail $59.99 Warehouse $49.99

We also carry Zenato’s Olive Oil which is delicious…

Zenato Olive Oil, Retail $38.99 Warehouse $29.99


Obviously Senore Zenato is not the only guy making Amarone in the Veneto. The Allegrini Farm is located in Fumane di Valpolicella. The Allegrini family has been among the main characters of Valpolicella history since the XVI century. Giovanni Allegrini was among the first winegrowers to question local practices, which changed habits and succeeded in raising quality; he also used this attitude in adding oenological know-how to in the severe selection of grapes which helped produce some of the finest wines of the Valpolicella in the Sixties and Seventies.

A well-structured, complex, elegant and velvety wine, with intense ruby red color. It has a warm and spicy bouquet, with the subtle aroma of fresh raisins. Allegrini Amarone is produced from 80% Corvina Veronese, 15% Rondinella and 5% Molinara grapes, by using the thousand-year-old technique of Appassimento which translates to natural drying. This drying of the grapes takes 3-4 months in the drying loft, where they lose 40-45% of their original weight. The resulting wines can age for 20 years.

Allegrini Amarone 2001, Retail $69.99 Warehouse $59.99
Allegrini Amarone 2000, Retail $69.99 Warehouse $59.99

Allegrini’s ‘Corte Giara’ Extra Virgin Olive Oil has a delicate perfume and silky taste, with a hint of almonds on its finish. The olives are harvested in November and December by hand or with rakes and brought to the mill on the same day; they are then stone ground and cold pressed, which helps the olives maintain their natural flavors.

Allegrini Olive Oil, Retail $24.99 Warehouse $19.99

Taking a departure from the traditional, we will wonder into the ‘new world’ and visit a producer who is using Amarone style winemaking on one of its wines. The Hobbs famiy of Australia fancy themselves as being “wine enthusiasts” from way back and are happy to have relocated from the city life to tend a magnificent old vineyard in the Barossa. The vineyard has only 15 acres of vines and grows some of the Barossa’s oldest Shiraz vines planted at the turn of the last century. The vineyard is situated in the Barossa Ranges where the cooler climate and distinct soil structure provide idyllic conditions to produce fruit of exceptional quality. The vineyard is managed using minimal cultivation and the adaptation of many biodynamic techniques.

Each vine is hand pruned and hand picked. Over the years by hand pruning they have been able to remove the old dead wood from the old vines to re-establish their original shape giving these vines renewed vitality and longevity to potentially last another hundred years or longer!

The 2004 has yet to be reviewed by a third party. The Gregor 04 is made from Shiraz grapes that are hand picked and then placed onto drying racks. Over a period of time the drying process concentrates the berry flavors while maintaining their natural acids giving a unique flavor characteristic found only in this style of wine.

The palate is a mouthful of concentrated ripe red cherries and plums showing layers of spice and pepper. The acids and tannins are finely balanced. Long, lingering and intense flavors. Aged in new French oak for 24 months. Only 230 cases were produced for the world.

Hobbs ‘The Gregor’ Shiraz 2004, Retail $114.99 Warehouse $89.99

And we still have some of the 03 remaining. This one has been reviewed. If anyone needs a high scoring red to take to a dinner party, this may be your ticket.

Made from yields of two tons of fruit per acre, and aged two years in both new and old French oak, the 2003 Shiraz Gregor possesses a roasted/scorched earth character as some of the fruit is dried a la Amarone. Rich and full-bodied, with a broodingly dense, concentrated style, an inky/blue/purple color, fabulous length as well as intensity, and riveting fruit, it can be enjoyed over the next 12-15 years. 96pts Wine Advocate

Hobbs ‘The Gregor’ Shiraz 2003, Retail $124.99 Warehouse $99.99

Hope that this blog’s info gives you a ‘raisin’ to try these dried grape style wines……..