The neighbor of Spain’s now famous Priorat region, Montsant is historically and culturally quite similar to its famous neighbor. Located in northeastern Spain, not far from the Catalan capitol of Barcelona, Montsant lies just to the west of the Priorat and shares the hilly, rocky landscape. Montsant is one of Spain's newest DO’s that was created in 2001 from the former Falset zone of Tarragona, which lies in the valley between the Serra de Montsant and Serra de Montalt ranges. Montsant produces some of Spain's best red wine values and its potential for quality is only starting to be explored.
As in Priorat, Montsant’s vines consist mainly of Garnacha and Cariñena with some more recent plantings of international red grapes. Old Garnacha and Cariñena vineyards on steep slopes enable Montsant to produce wines of very similar style and quality to Priorat. Priorat’s best wines tend to remind me of a slightly rustic version of a top Chateauneuf du Pape wine. Montsant is similar, perhaps a touch less intense but at also more of a value.
Let me hit you with some knowledge: Montsant’s climate is dry, promoting low yields which result in wines with structural and flavor intensity. Montsant’s nearly 5000 acres of vineyards were given their own identity in order to highlight its superior quality. The soil structure contains predominantly limestone over granite with an occasional patch of the famous Priorat slate. In Montsant, vineyard parcels are planted at altitudes between 300 and 700 meters above sea level. The climate is Mediterranean and is quite warm with moderate rainfall levels. Soil in the lower altitudes is deep, rich, and fertile while soil in the northern altitudes is very poor, with high levels of schist and granite. Many of the higher altitude vineyard parcels are terraced with extremely old vines. These terraces have much in common with those of the Priorat.
Let’s head to the wines. In 2001, proprietor Alfredo Arribas began the Clos del Mas del Portal Project in Priorat with the purchase of the Mas del Portal property and other adjoining lands situated between the villages of Bellmunt, El Molar and El Loar. With the help of partners Agustí Peris and Jean Luc Colombo, the Portal Project took shape. To supplement the existing vines, the terraced banks on the property were restored. These banks, which create very narrow areas for cultivation, had been abandoned for years. They planted the terraces with low producing, clonally selected vines of the region's traditional grape varietals. Some experimental varietals were planted as well. The vineyard continues to be farmed utilizing organic practices. The winery’s organic viticulture goes the extra kilometer in keeping with the cutting edge philosophy of the winery.
A final piece of Portal del Montsant was put in place with the involvement of enologist Ricard Rofes. Ricard has brought with him a profound knowledge of some of the finest wines of the region, such as Les Sorts and Masroig. Portal de Monsant was born when the quality of the excellent 2004 vintage begged the group to create Santbru, a wine of the Montsant Denomination of Origin that was produced using very mature vines of Montsant's traditional varietals. This allowed Portal to now create excellent wines from both Priorat and Montsant.
We tasted the regular wine that Portal de Montsant produces called Brunus and were blown away! This 05 just screams character and class. Brunus is produced from 60% Cariñena, 35% Garnacha and 5% Syrah vines that average 35-70 years of age. The un-irrigated vineyard’s soil is composed of chalk and clay that produce extremely low yields that produce just over one ton to the acre. The grapes are hand harvested and fermented in temperature controlled vats before aging for eight months in first year French Allier barrels. Brunus was bottled without filtration. Only 14,000 bottles of Brunus 05 were produced for the world. This wine is an opulent wonder of a wine. A mouthful of big, jammy fruit, with a brawny-beefy character is Brunus’ mantra. Included is the Wine Advocate review below. I still can’t figure out how this wine and under $10 Garnacha wines get the same rating? Good for the value people I suppose, not based on reality for wines like this though. We love Las Rocas and Menguante’s base Garnacha wines and their 90 point scores, but try this wine next to them and please tell me that they are even in the same ballpark……
As in Priorat, Montsant’s vines consist mainly of Garnacha and Cariñena with some more recent plantings of international red grapes. Old Garnacha and Cariñena vineyards on steep slopes enable Montsant to produce wines of very similar style and quality to Priorat. Priorat’s best wines tend to remind me of a slightly rustic version of a top Chateauneuf du Pape wine. Montsant is similar, perhaps a touch less intense but at also more of a value.
Let me hit you with some knowledge: Montsant’s climate is dry, promoting low yields which result in wines with structural and flavor intensity. Montsant’s nearly 5000 acres of vineyards were given their own identity in order to highlight its superior quality. The soil structure contains predominantly limestone over granite with an occasional patch of the famous Priorat slate. In Montsant, vineyard parcels are planted at altitudes between 300 and 700 meters above sea level. The climate is Mediterranean and is quite warm with moderate rainfall levels. Soil in the lower altitudes is deep, rich, and fertile while soil in the northern altitudes is very poor, with high levels of schist and granite. Many of the higher altitude vineyard parcels are terraced with extremely old vines. These terraces have much in common with those of the Priorat.Let’s head to the wines. In 2001, proprietor Alfredo Arribas began the Clos del Mas del Portal Project in Priorat with the purchase of the Mas del Portal property and other adjoining lands situated between the villages of Bellmunt, El Molar and El Loar. With the help of partners Agustí Peris and Jean Luc Colombo, the Portal Project took shape. To supplement the existing vines, the terraced banks on the property were restored. These banks, which create very narrow areas for cultivation, had been abandoned for years. They planted the terraces with low producing, clonally selected vines of the region's traditional grape varietals. Some experimental varietals were planted as well. The vineyard continues to be farmed utilizing organic practices. The winery’s organic viticulture goes the extra kilometer in keeping with the cutting edge philosophy of the winery.
A final piece of Portal del Montsant was put in place with the involvement of enologist Ricard Rofes. Ricard has brought with him a profound knowledge of some of the finest wines of the region, such as Les Sorts and Masroig. Portal de Monsant was born when the quality of the excellent 2004 vintage begged the group to create Santbru, a wine of the Montsant Denomination of Origin that was produced using very mature vines of Montsant's traditional varietals. This allowed Portal to now create excellent wines from both Priorat and Montsant.
We tasted the regular wine that Portal de Montsant produces called Brunus and were blown away! This 05 just screams character and class. Brunus is produced from 60% Cariñena, 35% Garnacha and 5% Syrah vines that average 35-70 years of age. The un-irrigated vineyard’s soil is composed of chalk and clay that produce extremely low yields that produce just over one ton to the acre. The grapes are hand harvested and fermented in temperature controlled vats before aging for eight months in first year French Allier barrels. Brunus was bottled without filtration. Only 14,000 bottles of Brunus 05 were produced for the world. This wine is an opulent wonder of a wine. A mouthful of big, jammy fruit, with a brawny-beefy character is Brunus’ mantra. Included is the Wine Advocate review below. I still can’t figure out how this wine and under $10 Garnacha wines get the same rating? Good for the value people I suppose, not based on reality for wines like this though. We love Las Rocas and Menguante’s base Garnacha wines and their 90 point scores, but try this wine next to them and please tell me that they are even in the same ballpark……
‘The 2005 Brunus is a blend of 60% Carinena, 35% Garnacha, and 5% Syrah aged 8 months in one-year-old French oak and bottled unfiltered. Purple-colored, it exhibits a very fragrant bouquet of smoke, vanilla, forest floor, and blackberry liqueur. This is followed by a full-bodied, mouth-filling wine with layered blueberry fruit and well integrated tannin and acidity leading to a pure, fruity finish. Drink this tasty effort over the next 6 years.’ 90pts Wine Advocate
Brunus ‘Montsant’ 2005, Retail $24.99 Warehouse $19.99
As stated earlier, Montsant had achieved full AOC status in the last few years after spending several years as a sub-zone of Tarragona. Perennial WW favorite winery, Capcanes was the leader in this fight for full D.O. status. The property is situated in the village of Capcanes and served for several years as the village cooperative. In the 1990’s, the co-op began making kosher wines for the Jewish population of Barcelona, and from that exposure in the much larger city, the property began to attract a greater level of interest. US importer, Eric Solomon approached Capcanes and asked for a custom blend to be made from some of the better vines of the property. Capcanes has been a value leader in the WW for years now.
Eric Solomon of European Cellars was completely impressed with the results of his custom blend. Eric then spoke with the owners of Capcanes about making a large quality investment at the bodega. The older vines of the property are now being vinified separately and pass through extensive modern oaking regimes while the young vines are experiencing higher levels of sorting and less wood to emphasize the fresh fruit characters of the grapes. The Capcanes winery owns some of the most impressive old vine vineyards in the Montsant region.
‘The 2004 Mas Donis Barrica is 85% Garnacha from 80+-year-old vines and 15% Syrah aged for 8 months in French and American oak. Opaque purple, it has a wonderfully expressive nose of spice box, pencil lead, pepper, blueberry, and blackberry liqueur. On the palate the wine is full-bodied with layers of ripe, spicy black fruits, nicely concealed tannins, and a long, pure finish. It is an outstanding value for drinking now and over the next 4-6 years.’ 90pts Wine Advocate
Capcanes Mas Donis 2004, Retail $13.99 Warehouse $9.99
Capcanes Cal Siscon 2002, Retail $18.99 Warehouse $12.99
Did I ever tell you the story about the uncooked quail egg on top of one of the courses at dinner in Tarragona? Made for a wild ride after the visit to Priorat the next day. Psychedelic, man........
Eric Solomon of European Cellars was completely impressed with the results of his custom blend. Eric then spoke with the owners of Capcanes about making a large quality investment at the bodega. The older vines of the property are now being vinified separately and pass through extensive modern oaking regimes while the young vines are experiencing higher levels of sorting and less wood to emphasize the fresh fruit characters of the grapes. The Capcanes winery owns some of the most impressive old vine vineyards in the Montsant region.
‘The 2004 Mas Donis Barrica is 85% Garnacha from 80+-year-old vines and 15% Syrah aged for 8 months in French and American oak. Opaque purple, it has a wonderfully expressive nose of spice box, pencil lead, pepper, blueberry, and blackberry liqueur. On the palate the wine is full-bodied with layers of ripe, spicy black fruits, nicely concealed tannins, and a long, pure finish. It is an outstanding value for drinking now and over the next 4-6 years.’ 90pts Wine AdvocateCapcanes Mas Donis 2004, Retail $13.99 Warehouse $9.99
Capcanes Cal Siscon 2002, Retail $18.99 Warehouse $12.99
Did I ever tell you the story about the uncooked quail egg on top of one of the courses at dinner in Tarragona? Made for a wild ride after the visit to Priorat the next day. Psychedelic, man........
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