Dynamic and bio-dynamic in Bordeaux...

Last October in Bordeaux I went out of my way to secure an appointment with Pontet Canet in Pauillac as I had been struck by the quality change that was happening at the Chateau. Even though I had the pleasure of seeing many Chateaus on this trip that included two of the ‘First Growths,’ no visit was nearly as satisfying and enlightening as my visit to Pontet Canet. Pontet Canet is a ‘Fifth Growth’ located towards the northern end of the Pauillac appellation and happens to be the next door neighbor of Ch Mouton Rothschild. The real quality change arrived at this Chateau when the property was turned over to the sons of Guy Tesseron who had purchased the property in 1975. The Tesseron’s made their mark on the world by producing superb Cognacs. Alfred Tesseron, who spares no expense in the quality of his Cognacs and has used the same philosophy at Pontet Canet. M. Tesseron’s smartest move at Pontet Canet has been the turning over of the operation to Jean-Michel Comme. Jean Michel has to be the most passionate winery director that I had ever met in Bordeaux. He slowly convinced the owners to adopt biodynamic farming for the health of the plants and its natural regulation against disease and overproduction. The success of this farming shows in the reviews that Pontet Canet has been receiving.

We will have some of the Pontet Canet wines in the stores next week. What we have in this week is the family Chateau of Jean-Michel Comme; Champ des Treilles. Champ des Treilles is approximately an hour drive east of the city of Bordeaux in the direction past St Emilion. I can tell you a little bit of the history of Champs des Treilles, however it will be difficult to improve on the passionate words of Jean Michel:

‘Our family venture is first of all a human project. The vineyard, which is modest in size, represents the life work for my grandparents, Italians who immigrated to France in the 1920’s making wine making their livelihood. This land that we cherish so deeply provides us with what it knows best. Some of the oldest vines have seen key moments of the twentieth century: the re-plantings after the Liberation of France, the terrible freezes of the 1950’s, the ploughings before the departure for the Algerian war, the animal labour abandonment, and the surrounding landscape changing into vineyards all around. But the vines probably still also remember the maternal care given to them by my family for generations. I, too, hope the vines remember my arrival in this world. My first memories as a child are of playing with my brother on a blanket at the end of vine rows, followed by my first days of labour which were easy enough until the ultimate reward finally came and I was allowed to drive the tractor in the vineyards. One day the bell toll of the nearby church announced a new day that a new generation of our family was to take over and lay its own blanket at the end of the vineyard rows…..’

Champ des Treilles is run by Jean Michel’s wife Corrine who is also the winemaker. Jean-Michel, Corrine and their two children often spend weekends at the Chateau doing the necessary farming to keep their vines in top shape. Corrine is very similar to Jean-Michel. Corrine's character is understated yet she is extremely passionate about her work. Their estate’s farming is carried out biodynamically which is essentially ‘organic plus.’ Natural fertilizers and sprays are carried out as needed and guided by the phases of the moon. These natural composts and sprays are said to bolster the plant’s natural defenses while keeping the soil around it alive and full of nutrition. The vineyard has recently undergone an increase in plant density in the hope of creating more competition within the vines for natural reduction of yields leading to greater concentration of fruit character in the grapes. In addition, the roots are forced to go deeper in the soil which encourages a vine to be more self sustaining.

In the backdrop you can see the height of biodynamism. The Nomblot, egg-shaped fermentor. Rudolf Steiner would have been proud as the egg shape is supposed to be the ultimate natural design to carry out fermentation. Mr. Blog slightly blocks this beautiful piece of Nomblot cement.

At harvest, the grapes are harvested by hand into small bins. The winery here is a working-man’s or woman’s version of Pontet Canet. The terroir is different, the grape variety mix is different, but the Chateau sees the same cultivation, passion and expertise that is employed in the Classified Growth. There are a few Nomblot Cement vats that are found in the new wing at Pontet. Certainly there are less pickers and sorters, but the passion is the same.

In the vineyard there are 16 acres of red varieties, comprised of 63% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, 9% Cabernet Sauvignon and 8% Petit Verdot. The 8 acres of white varieties are comprised of 28% Sauvignon Blanc 60% Sémillon and 12% Muscadelle.

Petit Champ White

Almost exclusively from 60 year-old Semillon vines that are fermented in a vat.
The Semillon expresses citrus notes with a fresh delicacy. This Petit Champ Blanc displays a nice, racy quality with a hint of lanolin and a hint of creaminess from the lees contact.

Petit Champ Blanc 2005, Retail $13.99 Warehouse $9.99

Petit Champ Red

The nose shows the character of red and black berries. On the palate is a chocolate component with currants and cherries. Has a touch of grip to reign in the fruit.
It is a delightful young wine.

Petit Champ Rouge 2003, Retail $15.99 Warehouse $11.99

Grand Red

Predominantly Merlot with some Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot added. Produced from the oldest vines and aged in barrel. The Grand Vin displays a complex and powerful nose that delivers notes of cassis, red fruits, liquorice, and vanilla. This is a formidable and classically structured red Bordeaux wine.

Champs des Treilles Grand Vin Rouge 2003, Retail $24.99 ,Warehouse $17.99

These are beautiful and wholesome wines produced from a couple of 'Americanophiles.' The Comme's think very highly of the US and their daughter has spent some time studying her English in Texas. Cool wines from cool people.........Pretty cool!