Daniel Haas is Vineyard Brands French wine buyer and I take his comments about Burgundy very seriously. Vineyard Brands has a fabulous selection of independantly owned Burgundy producers which has enabled Daniel to visit Burgundy up to four times a year for decades and thus know every nook and cranny of the Cote D'Or. The long and the short of this blog is this: 2005 Red Burgundies are some of the finest Pinot Noirs that this planet has ever seen. Unlike Bordeaux, many Burgundy producers talk about their wines in terms of barrels, not thousands of cases. Snooze now on the offer and they will be gone. Below are some of Daniel's comments on the vintage. After that you will see some reviews by Daniel 'DH' and Steve Tanzer 'ST.'
Vincent Girardin's wines are always the most modern examples in Vineyard Brands stable. Modern Burgundy to me means bright fruit, depth, concentration and a well balanced finish. 2005 reds by Girardin may be his best range that I have ever tried. Now on to Danny's comments.
Every once in a while a vintage comes along that is everyone’s fantasy. If you could create a perfect vintage, it would be 2005 for red Burgundy.
I saw pictures taken by one producer of grapes hanging on the vines and they were poster-child perfection – not a blemish. Clusters that were a work of art. This was a season to sit back and watch nature work its magic. There was no reason to use sulphur spray as there was no rot; there was neither overproduction nor underproduction; the grapes weren’t too big or too little.
The temperature during the season was never too high nor too low; rainfall was minimal until some small rains came in mid-August which refreshed the vines. As far as the entire growing season was concerned almost every month was of average temperature. January: normal. February: cooler than normal. March: slightly warmer than normal. April: slightly above normal as well as in May, June and July, but only slightly. August had below normal temperatures but not by much. September was average.
Precipitation was below average for January, July, August and September – the perfect scenario for no rot and a perfect harvest. As far as rain was concerned, only May was wetter than normal and June had normal amounts of precipitation; during all the other months drought conditions applied. The precipitation in June was 30% of normal rainfall; less than 20% in July and August; less than 10% for the entire month of September.
The amount of sunshine was normal but not all the time, so the grapes ripened slowly with good hang time. Green shoots emerged around the 23rd and 24th of April – not early or late. Full flowering of the 2005 reds came on June 11th in the Côte de Beaune and June 13th in Côte de Nuits. The temperature at the beginning and middle of flowering for the whites produced shatter; the reds, which flowered about a week later, had warmer temperatures and didn’t experience shatter – those grapes were in perfect condition. Since it wasn’t too hot the rest of the summer the skins were not very thick and with a lot of pulp loaded with juice.
August was uneventful save for a little rain in the region on August 24th and 26th. These rains restarted the vegetative cycle and helped with the water stress. The temperature never got above 29º (84ºF) with the exception of the 31st of August. September was warm early up until the 9th with daytime highs in the upper 20s, (80s) then it cooled down. There was one rainstorm on September 7th and another on the 9th, both about 8mm (.314”) and then no precipitation until the 17th when another 6mm (.23”) fell. After that only a trace till October came around and harvest was over.
In most of Burgundy, the harvest began between the 16th of September and the 19th. Most of the Côte de Nuits started on the 19th. The harvest was perfect, not a drop of rot, no reason to use the sorting tables, no reason to chaptalize. Nothing to do, the harvest made itself. Since the grapes were ripe on all levels you can have a perfect reading of alcohol of 13º but the skin and pulp is not phenolically ripe and you can have alcohols of 122 to 125 that are truly riper than the 135 ones. In 2005 you had alcohols and phenolic ripeness, not over ripe or with pruniness. The wines also were slow to evolve in the cellar. They did not need pump-overs or heavy extractions. They were naturally extracted. Since malolactic was so slow the wines were not racked so they were resting on the lees which were healthy giving them freshness. The end result is powerful wines without any astringency, sweet, ripe tannins, balanced acidity, color and elegance and finesse from the long hang time and slow evolution in the cellar. There is nothing more to say other than if you don’t buy this vintage, just skip this grape altogether. My only refrain is, alas the prices are up 25-30% from the 2004s and with the falling dollar it’s a double whammy. DH
From Steve Tanzer: “Ever the flexible merchant, Vincent Girardin increased his purchases of Pinot Noir grapes in the sexy 2005 vintage, then cut back drastically again in 2006, making only 30 barrels of red wine in the latest vintage. (The only parcels he will continue to buy every year are Clos Vougeot, Charmes- Chambertin and Chambertin-Clos de Beze, because he’s happy with his sources.) Girardin told me that because 2005 featured very strong material his objective has been to make “a classic vintage.” He used 60% whole clusters to vinify his wines from the Cote de Nuits, and about 30% for the Cote de Beaune. He did no pigeages, relying instead on two remontages per day “in order to coat the entire cap and to avoid getting rustic tannins.” The premier crus are aging in 30% new oak and the grand crus in 40%, and because he believes the wines need long elevage, he won’t bottle until April. Girardin told me that the 2005s are currently carrying 13.3% to 14% alcohol without chaptalization.
Vincent Girardin was born in Santenay, in the Cote de Beaune and is part of a winemaking family with roots back to the 17th century. Now in his forties, Vincent began his winemaking career in 1982 with only 5 acres of vines. When his father retired, Vincent took over another 10 acres to which he could devote himself. In order to sell his wines, Vincent did not hesitate to go from door-to-door in the big cities to convince his first clients. Vincent and his wife Veronique have grown the Domaine to one that is relatively large in Burgundian terms. The key here is the attention to detail that the Girardins maintain which keeps their reputation in the upper echelon of both red and white Burgundy producers.
At Domaine Vincent Girardin the grapes are harvested by hand, then sorted twice, once in the vineyard and for a second time in the winery. The sorting process eliminates all elements that are not fully ripe or not in the best condition. The presses are pneumatic in order to preserve the purety of the grapes. Next the wines are aged in oak barrels. This carefully controlled ageing process allows the wines to achieve their full potential. In order to preserve their natural qualities to the utmost, the red wines are neither fined nor filtered.
The work in the vines is carried out with respect for the environment and nature. Vincent Girardin’s vineyards are farmed organically and the soil is worked to ensure proper aeration. Vincent Girardin rigorously controls the yields by pruning, adding only natural-slow release fertilizer, severe removal of excess buds, and green-harvesting.
“Vincent Girardin, the extremely talented owner and winemaker of this négotiant house...(his) top wines, the grand and premier crus, are at the same quality level as those crafted at Burgundy’s other excellent domaines and négotiants. What sets this firm apart is the bevy of delicious, eminently drinkable wines it produces from lesser known appellations.” The Wine Advocate
“Girardin’s wines are vividly fresh and full of life, saturated with vibrant pinot and chardonnay fruit. Vincent Girardin’s wines...test the boundaries of tradition, but never quite break them, with results that are both consistently impressive as well as a pleasure to drink. Their strength isn’t delicacy and grace, but neither is it simply brawn – and in that way they offer an intellectual paradox as well.” Wine & Spirits
“Vincent Girardin, the Côte de Beaune’s golden boy.”
Wine Spectator
2005 Bourgogne Rouge Cuvée Saint-Vincent Pinot Noir
Stelvin closure. Good color – light crimson. Smoky, rustic, raisined nose; earthy, too. On the palate, smoke and nuts; ripe, raisined fruit, very silky coffee/mocha, with a bit of jammy toast. Nice for the appellation with no tannins but nice baby succulent, sweet Pinot fruit on the finish. 17.9/20 DH
Vincent Girardin Bourgogne Rouge 2005, Retail $21.99 Warehouse $18.99
2005 Emotion de Terroirs Pinot NoirStelvin closure. 75% Marsannay, all hillside vineyards. 10% Gevrey, 15% Bourgogne old vines, next to Chambolle and Vosne-Romanée. All purchased grapes. Deeper color; more vinous, with more depth and class. On the nose, smoky and rustic. On the palate, some black licorice and silky acidity. Easy, lush, minty chocolate; has more tannins but they are ripe. Very easy and grapey, very pure and elegant for a Bourgogne. 18.2/20 DH
Vincent Girardin Emotions de Terroir Rouge 2005, Retail $24.99 Warehouse $19.99
2005 Santenay Villages Charmes
55 year old vines; located under the premier cru Santenay Clos Rousseau. Deep color tinged with purple. Arustic nose; very earthy and rustic on the nose but on the palate it’s beefy and bacon. Anice balance of very sweet fruit; very luscious and all in balance. Jammy on the finish with strong tannins. 18.4/20 DH
Vincent Girardin Santenay Charmes 2005, Retail $32.99 Warehouse $26.99
2005 Santenay Premier Cru Gravières
Even deeper in color than the Maladière. Ariper and more foxy nose of woods and meaty bacon, too. Toasty, smoky fruit with some oak present but the wine has more power than the Maladière and is juicier, more intense and classier. Racier, with juicier acids that are long on the palate. Quite classy, very typical Pinot with a beautifully balance mint chocolate finish. 18.8/20 DH
Vincent Girardin Santenay Gravieres 2005, Retail $39.99 Warehouse $32.99
2005 Puligny-Montrachet Villages Rouge
175 cases. Smoky tobacco nose, very herbal. On the palate, it has the most tannin of all the wine so far; thick, textured, milk chocolate fruit. Alittle less juicy with more smoke and tobacco on the palate. Finishes with some compact tannins. 18.6/20 DH
Vincent Girardin Puligny Montrachet Villages Rouge, Retail $42.99 Warehouse $36.99
2005 Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Clos St. Jean
Not tasted. DH
Vincent Girardin Chassagne Montrachet Clos St Jean 2005, Retail $42.99 Warehouse $36.99
2005 Savigny-les-Beaune Premier Cru Serpentières
375 cases produced. 40 year old vines, from 3 growers. Very deep in color. No rustic elements on the nose or bacon fat. Cleaner, more pure Pinot. Mostly chocolate licorice on the palate, it’s all in the texture and acidity. Very round at first then the acids refresh the wine. Some smoky bacon fat with no tannin, just luscious, lively acids but the finish has a bit of tannin. Smoky. 18.9/20 DH
Vincent Girardin Savigny les Beaune Serpentrieres 2005, Retail $39.99 Warehouse $32.99
2005 Beaune Premier Cru Grèves
425 cases produced. 50 year old vines, from 2 producers. Deep color. Juicy fruit nose. Mint chocolate, more vegetal and quite acid, and more dry tannins. Tobacco and mincemeat, smoky bacon. Al ittle less structure than the Savignys but a little but more classy. Finishes with tobacco and bacon. 18.7/20 DH
2005 Beaune Greves (from 45-year-old vines on limestone-rich soil) Good ruby-red. Ripe aromas of black cherry, minerals and chocolate. Sweet, fat and fruity, with firm acidity and mineral character giving energy to the middle palate. Finishes with substantial ripe tannins. This should offer early appeal. 88-91pts ST
Vincent Girardin Beaune Greves 2005, Retail $54.99 Warehouse $44.99
2005 Volnay Villages Vieilles Vignes
35 barrels from 5 vineyards. A very classy nose; black in color. Tobacco on the palate. It’s very rich and creamy coffee/mocha and has power and racy acids and a luscious middle. Toasty fruit with tannins on the side, like a barbecue sauce - a sweet and smoky finish. 18.9/20 DH
Vincent Girardin Volnay VV 2005, Retail $49.99 Warehouse $39.99
2005 Pommard Vignots
Very rustic on the nose, foxy like a Pommard should be, along with bananas and nuts. Very spicy on the palate, with milk chocolate and café au lait. Lots of thick texture with no tannins and a little bit of side acids. An opulent, juicy, Raisinette finish. 18.9/20 DH
Vincent Girardin Pommard Vignots 2005, Retail $49.99 Warehouse $41.99
2005 Pommard Premier Cru les Grands Epenots Vieilles Vignes
The deepest color so far, so deep you can’t see through it. Smoky tobacco, very bacony nose. You can sense the depth of fruit. Very penetrating on the palate; it’s massive, with lots of oily, powerful multi layered fruit; smoky and multidimensional. Long, long flavors and sweet ripe tannins; candy-like with jammy raisins. So concentrated it’s incredible; powerful, like a grand cru. 19.3/20 DH
2005 Pommard Grands Epenots Vieilles Vignes Bright ruby-red. Wild black raspberry, smoked meat and a minty nuance on the nose. Sweet on entry, but less expressive than the Greves, in a tougher, more solid style. But then this is Pommard. Finishes with broad, dusty tannins. 88-90pts ST
Vincent Girardin Pommard Grands Epenots VV 2005, Retail $79.99 Warehouse $69.99
2005 Pommard Premier Cru les Rugiens
Black in color. Tar, tobacco and bittersweet chocolate on the nose. Massive and ripe with tons of inky, thick textured fruit. Cherry licorice and more red fruits than the Epenots; more acids. Lovely, elegant, all in up-front fruit. Luscious red licorice and smoke. Very Pinot and elegant, but big. 19.3/20 DH
2005 Pommard Rugiens Deep, full ruby. High-toned, complex nose offers currant, flowers, nutty oak, tobacco, spices and an earthy element. Dense, lush and concentrated, with a suave, fine-grained texture. There’s plenty of material here. 89-92ptsST
Vincent Girardin Pommard Rugiens 2005, Retail $79.99 Warehouse $74.99
2005 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes
Pitch black in color. The typical rustic, coffee tobacco notes, along with a little vanilla bean. Toasty oak, silky fruit on the palate. Alittle bit metallic with lots of coffee without a lot of sugar, but enough baby acids. Smoke and toast on the finish and a bit of tea leaves. 18.2/20 DH
Vincent Girardin Gevrey Chambertin VV 2005, Retail $59.99 Warehouse $47.99
2005 Chambolle-Musigny Villages Vieilles Vignes
Animal nose – very leathery and rustic. A bit of mint chocolate also. The fruit is very Chambolle, lacy and silky with round extracted flavors. Sweet but bittersweet, too. Baby tannins and acids all in balance. A silky finish of tobacco and black licorice. 18.4/20 DH
Vincent Girardin Chambolle Musigny VV 2005, Retail $54.99 Warehouse $47.99
2005 Corton-Perrières Grand Cru
Deep color, crimson and black. Avery deep, powerful nose of black coffee; very floral. On the palate it’s fat and oily with strong tannins but not overpowering. Typical black cherry and currants and raisins on the mid palate. Very typed Pinot with a tobacco and coffee toasted finish. 19/20 DH
Vincent Girardin Corton Perrieres 2005, Retail $79.99 Warehouse $69.99
2005 Corton Renardes Grand Cru
The color of ink. Aripe, salty iodine nose, with some milk chocolate. On the palate, more richness, easier, more luscious than the Perrières. Abit of cherry pie – sweet, candied sugar-coated tannins but mostly lively acidity. Quite thick and palate-staining super meaty bittersweet chocolate rustic finish. 19.1/20 DH
2005 Corton Renardes Bright ruby-red. Highly aromatic nose combines redcurrant, tobacco, dried flowers, spices and iron. Offers more mid-palate precision and verve than the Bressandes, with redder fruits and attractive floral lift. A bit less stiff today. Finishes with dusty, ripe tannins. Despite the rather soft extraction he did, Girardin says that all of these wines still need further “refining” in barrel. He finds them quite reserved today but still believes that 2005 will be a vin de plaisir. 90-93pts ST
Vincent Girardin Corton Renardes 2005, Retail $89.99 Warehouse $74.99
2005 Corton Bressandes Grand Cru
Another opaque wine, again the smell of salt and iodine – a sign of a classy wine. Milk chocolate and burnt toast along with cherry juice, too. Abit of rum, super ripe and lacy with compact, square fruit all in elegance. Very classy, black fruit with the most tannin of the three grand crus, but also the biggest acids and finish. Cherry syrup. 19.2/20 DH
2005 Corton Bressandes Moderately saturated ruby-red. Very ripe aromas of black plum, mocha, chocolate, spices, game and earth, with a whiff of menthol. Plump and sweet but a bit unrefined and austere; this needs further elevage to gain in definition. Most promising today on the sweet, juicy, oak-spicy finish, where the solid tannins arrive late. 89-91pts ST
Vincent Girardin Corton Bressandes 2005, Retail $89.99 Warehouse $74.99
2005 Echézeaux Grand Cru
A very classy nose of milk chocolate, very ripe. Deep purple in color. On the palate, lots of creamy, intense, jam-packed fruit of cassis and cherry with tobacco notes. Long fruit with generous tannins. Sweet, candied jelly paste; a sugar-coated bittersweet finish. 19.4/20 DH
2005 Echezeaux Good medium ruby. Expressive aromas of black raspberry, minerals, game, tobacco and smoke, lifted by a floral topnote. Sweet black fruit flavors show good definition but offer less lift than the Suchots today. This is more stern and tannic-and a bit high-toned on the back. 89-92pts ST
Vincent Girardin Echezeaux Grand Cru 2005, Retail $169.99 Warehouse $139.99
2005 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
Deep, deep color. A raisined nose. Fat, luscious, oily fruit. Meaty, all in silky elegance. Low in tannin but high in sweet, pungent raisined fruit. Very floral and minty; some side tannins but not dominating. A compact, jammy black cherry finish. 19.3/20 DH
2005 Charmes Chambertin Bright medium ruby. Cool, reserved aromas of red cherry, flowers, brown spices and minerals; this is rather Chambertin-like. Dense, suave and deep, with ripe acids and enticing floral character. But this still needs more elevage and definition. Finishes quite broad, with a fine dusting of tannins and noteworthy aromatic
persistence. Very promising wine, best today on the nose and aftertaste. 91-94pts ST
Vincent Girardin Chames Chambertin 2005, Retail $169.99 Warehouse $139.99
2005 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru
Purchased grapes from behind the château, in front of Grands-Echézeaux. Rustic, leathery, somewhat animal. The color of ink. Tobacco on the nose. Bittersweet chocolate and black fruit, mainly black cherry and café au lait. All in texture and finesse. Round and silky with good fruit and extension and lively acids. Smoky coffee and burnt toast, stones and minerals; an elegant finish. 19.3/20 DH
2005 Clos de Vougeot Bright ruby-red. Scented aromas of black raspberry, rose petal, minerals, licorice and blood orange. Racy and light on its feet; not a dense style of Clos Vougeot but quite refined and perfumed. Finishes with very suave tannins and subtle aromatic persistence. I like this! 91-94pts ST
Vincent Girardin Clos de Vougeot 2005, Retail $179.99 Warehouse $159.99
2005 Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru
Black/purple in color. On the nose, ripe rôti of roasted nuts. Very elegant and classy already, you can tell it’s a grand cru. On the palate, it’s the best in the cellar and very floral, all in finesse. Long, long cherry juice, layers upon layers. Smoky, herbal, spicy, roasted peanut and chestnuts with black cherry jam – tobacco soaked in jam. 19.6/20 DH
2005 Chambertin Clos de Beze (five of the eight barrels come from very old vines planted next to Mazis-Chambertin) Moderately saturated red-ruby. Knockout nose of red cherry, faded rose, minerals, brown spices and red licorice. Perfumed and sharply delineated, with superb inner-mouth lift and delicacy. The potential alcohol here was 14.2% but there’s no sense of excess weight. This really stains the palate on the back, with the tannins arriving late. Made entirely from tiny berries, notes Girardin.
Offers great potential and is likely to evolve in bottle for a long time. 92-95pts ST
Vincent Girardin Chambertin Clos de Beze 2005, Retail $299.99 Warehouse $259.99
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