Blue-purple madness. If you’ve never tried a young, quality Vintage Port just after release, you now have a chance to purchase from the Wine Warehouse a few stellar offerings from Taylor Fladgate and Fonseca. The blatant fruitiness and power shines through on these Ports.Approximately three in every ten years we can expect to see the major Port houses declare a Vintage Port. This phenomenon is certainly due to Port houses only declaring in the most formidable and age worthy vintages. The reputation of a Port house will continue to be judged in fifty years from now based upon the quality of this Port as it develops. To declare a vintage in a less than spectacular year will be unfortunate for the next generation who is running the house. The other reason to declare vintages very selectively is to keep the supply down and thus demand and price up. As the core of a Port house’s Vintage Port is often from its finest vineyard, in non-declared years this vineyard will often produce formidable wines.
Produced in exactly the same way as a vintage port, Single Quintas are bottled after two years in cask. Single Quinta Vintage Ports are neither fined nor filtered, and thus develop a "crust", or deposit, exactly as does a vintage wine. They also represents a superb value, often priced at roughly half the cost of a declared vintage port of similar age.
As for the ubiquitously stellar 2005 vintage, the growing season in the Douro started with budburst from about 24th of March, later than usual as a result of the cold weather and the shortage of water. The whole growing season was marked by low vigor and small berry size for all grape varieties. The Douro Valley experienced its first rain since November 04 on the night of 06 September which interrupted a port harvest that had started earlier than any other.
Producers are reasonably optimistic about the quality of wine likely to be produced, and overall quantity, which was threatening to be dangerously low, was boosted by the six hours, roughly 20 mm, of rain on sep 06/07. The first grapes harvested were tiny and almost raisiny things but the rain really boosted volumes and potential alcohol levels were back to 12.5 to 13 per cent after a few days of the uninterrupted sunshine that has characterized the 2005 Douro growing season.
On to the Ports…………….
The Port house of Fonseca and Guimaraens was not formally founded until 1822, when Manuel Pedro Guimaraens acquired control of the company through purchase of the majority of the Fonseca holdings. Consistency of style has remained one of the fundamental principles of the Fonseca philosophy since its founding. The firm has traditionally purchased wines from the same growers whose operations have been under its control. The practice of shippers investing in vinification equipment to make their own wines from purchased grapes is a phenomenon only prevalent since the mid 1960s.
On to the Ports…………….
The Port house of Fonseca and Guimaraens was not formally founded until 1822, when Manuel Pedro Guimaraens acquired control of the company through purchase of the majority of the Fonseca holdings. Consistency of style has remained one of the fundamental principles of the Fonseca philosophy since its founding. The firm has traditionally purchased wines from the same growers whose operations have been under its control. The practice of shippers investing in vinification equipment to make their own wines from purchased grapes is a phenomenon only prevalent since the mid 1960s.In the early 1970s, it became obvious to the top houses that consistent supplies of high-quality grapes would be seriously jeopardized unless they took decisive measures to secure their own resources. During the 1970’s, Fonseca Guimaraens purchased three exceptional quintas, all classified grade "A", which continued to strengthen its position in the Port hierarchy. These three properties are among the finest in the Douro. Perhaps their finest is the Quinta do Panascal?
In 1978 Fonseca acquired the Quinta do Panascal, a property located in the spectacularly beautiful Tavora Valley, also in the Cima Corgo to the south of the Douro River. At present, 67 of its 97 acres are planted, supporting 114,800 vines which produce 860 hectolitres of must annually. Adjacent vineyards produce another 196 hectolitres. New plantings at Panascal continue to focus principally on Touriga Nacional, Touriga Francesa and Tinta Roriz.
Quinta do Panascal is now firmly based as the backbone to the famous Fonseca vintages. The Fonseca Viticultural team developed the first organic vines in the Douro valley, in a designated region of Quinta do Panascal. Using recognised viticultural methods, the team has been able to refine these techniques, over several years, for growing quality organic vines in the Douro valley.A lot of work at Quinta do Panascal is focused on “batch” planting of the top five of the six varietals. Batch planting affords not only the advantage of harvesting the varieties efficiently at optimum maturity and vinifying them separately, but also naturally coincides with planting each varietal in microclimates that are best suited to it.
Tasting note: Opaque purple black with a narrow magenta rim. The nose is rich and exuberant, brimming with dark, seductive blackberry and cassis aromas laced with licorice and a hint of sweetness. The round, luscious palate follows through with a dense jammy blast of wild berries and a mouthful of rich and supple tannins.
Fonseca Quinta do Panascal 2005, Retail $62.99 Warehouse $49.99
The original company that became Taylor, Fladgate & Yeatman was officially founded in 1692. Taylor Fladgate’s top vineyard is the Quinta de Vargellas; a spectacular vineyard in the far upper reaches of the Douro Valley which is the source of the wines which embody the character of Taylor Fladgate's vintage ports in declared years. This property, acquired by the house in 1893, covers 101 hectares (250 acres), half of which are planted in vines on the slopes which descend to the banks of the river. The unsurpassed quality of this vineyard was recognized as early as 1808, when that vintage Quinta de Vargellas appeared for sale on the London market in the early 1820s, surely the first single-quinta port ever to be commercialized.
Commenting on the 2005 vintage, wine maker David Guimaraens noted: “2005 will be remembered as a hot and dry year. However the effects of the drought were offset by rain in early September and by perfect picking conditions. The crop on all the Taylor estates was one of the healthiest we have seen for years.”
Tasting note: Opaque purple black with a narrow magenta rim. The nose is rich and exuberant, brimming with dark, seductive blackberry and cassis aromas laced with licorice and a hint of sweetness. The round, luscious palate follows through with a dense jammy blast of wild berries and a mouthful of rich and supple tannins.
Fonseca Quinta do Panascal 2005, Retail $62.99 Warehouse $49.99
The original company that became Taylor, Fladgate & Yeatman was officially founded in 1692. Taylor Fladgate’s top vineyard is the Quinta de Vargellas; a spectacular vineyard in the far upper reaches of the Douro Valley which is the source of the wines which embody the character of Taylor Fladgate's vintage ports in declared years. This property, acquired by the house in 1893, covers 101 hectares (250 acres), half of which are planted in vines on the slopes which descend to the banks of the river. The unsurpassed quality of this vineyard was recognized as early as 1808, when that vintage Quinta de Vargellas appeared for sale on the London market in the early 1820s, surely the first single-quinta port ever to be commercialized.Commenting on the 2005 vintage, wine maker David Guimaraens noted: “2005 will be remembered as a hot and dry year. However the effects of the drought were offset by rain in early September and by perfect picking conditions. The crop on all the Taylor estates was one of the healthiest we have seen for years.”
The 05 Vargellas displays inky black color with a hint of purple on the rim. The bouquet displays strong blackcurrant, cherry and blackberry aromas. Hints of cedar and violets provide an exotic twist which is the hallmark of classic Vargellas Vintage Ports. On the palate the first impression is supple and restrained but the finish reveals a tightly knit fabric of well defined but supple tannins that then unleashes a powerful surge of rich black fruit flavor.
Taylor Fladgate Quinta de Vargellas 2005, Retail $69.99 Warehouse $53.99
It is commonly thought that Vintage Ports will remain in a fresh state after opening if the wine is decanted and taken away from any sediment that may be present. These Ports should remain fresh for nearly a week once opened. They are perfect to enjoy after dinner either on their own, with a salty cheese such as Stilton or can match quite nicely to a chocolate dessert. Of course one can age these Ports for decades if they are properly cellared. Enjoy, but remember at 20% alcohol, they pack a punch.
Taylor Fladgate Quinta de Vargellas 2005, Retail $69.99 Warehouse $53.99
It is commonly thought that Vintage Ports will remain in a fresh state after opening if the wine is decanted and taken away from any sediment that may be present. These Ports should remain fresh for nearly a week once opened. They are perfect to enjoy after dinner either on their own, with a salty cheese such as Stilton or can match quite nicely to a chocolate dessert. Of course one can age these Ports for decades if they are properly cellared. Enjoy, but remember at 20% alcohol, they pack a punch.
