Dynamic and bio-dynamic in Bordeaux...

Last October in Bordeaux I went out of my way to secure an appointment with Pontet Canet in Pauillac as I had been struck by the quality change that was happening at the Chateau. Even though I had the pleasure of seeing many Chateaus on this trip that included two of the ‘First Growths,’ no visit was nearly as satisfying and enlightening as my visit to Pontet Canet. Pontet Canet is a ‘Fifth Growth’ located towards the northern end of the Pauillac appellation and happens to be the next door neighbor of Ch Mouton Rothschild. The real quality change arrived at this Chateau when the property was turned over to the sons of Guy Tesseron who had purchased the property in 1975. The Tesseron’s made their mark on the world by producing superb Cognacs. Alfred Tesseron, who spares no expense in the quality of his Cognacs and has used the same philosophy at Pontet Canet. M. Tesseron’s smartest move at Pontet Canet has been the turning over of the operation to Jean-Michel Comme. Jean Michel has to be the most passionate winery director that I had ever met in Bordeaux. He slowly convinced the owners to adopt biodynamic farming for the health of the plants and its natural regulation against disease and overproduction. The success of this farming shows in the reviews that Pontet Canet has been receiving.

We will have some of the Pontet Canet wines in the stores next week. What we have in this week is the family Chateau of Jean-Michel Comme; Champ des Treilles. Champ des Treilles is approximately an hour drive east of the city of Bordeaux in the direction past St Emilion. I can tell you a little bit of the history of Champs des Treilles, however it will be difficult to improve on the passionate words of Jean Michel:

‘Our family venture is first of all a human project. The vineyard, which is modest in size, represents the life work for my grandparents, Italians who immigrated to France in the 1920’s making wine making their livelihood. This land that we cherish so deeply provides us with what it knows best. Some of the oldest vines have seen key moments of the twentieth century: the re-plantings after the Liberation of France, the terrible freezes of the 1950’s, the ploughings before the departure for the Algerian war, the animal labour abandonment, and the surrounding landscape changing into vineyards all around. But the vines probably still also remember the maternal care given to them by my family for generations. I, too, hope the vines remember my arrival in this world. My first memories as a child are of playing with my brother on a blanket at the end of vine rows, followed by my first days of labour which were easy enough until the ultimate reward finally came and I was allowed to drive the tractor in the vineyards. One day the bell toll of the nearby church announced a new day that a new generation of our family was to take over and lay its own blanket at the end of the vineyard rows…..’

Champ des Treilles is run by Jean Michel’s wife Corrine who is also the winemaker. Jean-Michel, Corrine and their two children often spend weekends at the Chateau doing the necessary farming to keep their vines in top shape. Corrine is very similar to Jean-Michel. Corrine's character is understated yet she is extremely passionate about her work. Their estate’s farming is carried out biodynamically which is essentially ‘organic plus.’ Natural fertilizers and sprays are carried out as needed and guided by the phases of the moon. These natural composts and sprays are said to bolster the plant’s natural defenses while keeping the soil around it alive and full of nutrition. The vineyard has recently undergone an increase in plant density in the hope of creating more competition within the vines for natural reduction of yields leading to greater concentration of fruit character in the grapes. In addition, the roots are forced to go deeper in the soil which encourages a vine to be more self sustaining.

In the backdrop you can see the height of biodynamism. The Nomblot, egg-shaped fermentor. Rudolf Steiner would have been proud as the egg shape is supposed to be the ultimate natural design to carry out fermentation. Mr. Blog slightly blocks this beautiful piece of Nomblot cement.

At harvest, the grapes are harvested by hand into small bins. The winery here is a working-man’s or woman’s version of Pontet Canet. The terroir is different, the grape variety mix is different, but the Chateau sees the same cultivation, passion and expertise that is employed in the Classified Growth. There are a few Nomblot Cement vats that are found in the new wing at Pontet. Certainly there are less pickers and sorters, but the passion is the same.

In the vineyard there are 16 acres of red varieties, comprised of 63% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, 9% Cabernet Sauvignon and 8% Petit Verdot. The 8 acres of white varieties are comprised of 28% Sauvignon Blanc 60% Sémillon and 12% Muscadelle.

Petit Champ White

Almost exclusively from 60 year-old Semillon vines that are fermented in a vat.
The Semillon expresses citrus notes with a fresh delicacy. This Petit Champ Blanc displays a nice, racy quality with a hint of lanolin and a hint of creaminess from the lees contact.

Petit Champ Blanc 2005, Retail $13.99 Warehouse $9.99

Petit Champ Red

The nose shows the character of red and black berries. On the palate is a chocolate component with currants and cherries. Has a touch of grip to reign in the fruit.
It is a delightful young wine.

Petit Champ Rouge 2003, Retail $15.99 Warehouse $11.99

Grand Red

Predominantly Merlot with some Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot added. Produced from the oldest vines and aged in barrel. The Grand Vin displays a complex and powerful nose that delivers notes of cassis, red fruits, liquorice, and vanilla. This is a formidable and classically structured red Bordeaux wine.

Champs des Treilles Grand Vin Rouge 2003, Retail $24.99 ,Warehouse $17.99

These are beautiful and wholesome wines produced from a couple of 'Americanophiles.' The Comme's think very highly of the US and their daughter has spent some time studying her English in Texas. Cool wines from cool people.........Pretty cool!

Olive oil; more than just 'fun for the Spartans'

One of Mother Nature’s most remarkable gifts is a high quality olive oil. High quality olive oils capture the essence of the olive, and are capable of marrying with a vast diversity of foods. Making great olive oil requires an obsessive attention to detail resulting from an ideal location, low yields and harvesting at just the right moment before the olives turn from green to black. Only the finest producers go to such trouble and expense.

Over 750 million olive trees are cultivated worldwide, with about 95 percent of the trees being located in the Mediterranean region. About 93 percent of global olive oil production comes from Spain, Italy , Turkey, and Greece. In olive oil-producing countries, the local production is generally considered the finest. Here in the US, Italian olive oil is the best-known, with top-quality extra-virgin oils from Italy. Demand for Italian olive oil has soared in the United States.

Historically, there is evidence of oil pressing having taken place as far back as 6000 BC. In the centuries that followed, olive presses became a common sight from the Atlantic shore of North Africa to the settlements along the Nile. Until 1500 BC, the eastern coastal areas of the Mediterranean were most heavily cultivated. Olive tree growing then spread into Southern Gaul by the Celtic tribes during the 7th century BC.

To highlight some of the many uses of olive oil throughout history, the Spartans were known to use olive oil to rub themselves while exercising in the gym. The practice was said to highlight the beauty of the male body. This decorative use of olive oil quickly spread to all of Hellenic city states, together with naked appearance of athletes, and lasted close to a thousand years despite its great expense. It is rumored that these rituals, although currently underground, still exist and are taking place in rooms known as the ’V-I-P.’ The current ‘buy three and get one’ will certainly help mitigate some of these costs.

Let me hit you with some healthy knowledge: There is evidence from epidemiological studies to suggest that a higher proportion of monounsaturated fats in the diet is linked with a reduction in the risk of coronary heart disease. This is of significance because olive oil is considerably rich in monounsaturated fats, most notabably oleic acid. There is also a large body of clinical data to show that consumption of olive oil can provide heart health benefits such as favorable effects on cholesterol regulation and low density lipoprotein cholesterol oxidation, and that it exerts antiinflamatory, antithrombotic, antihypertensive as well as vasodilatory effects both in animals and in humans.

Olive oil’s healthy properties are evidenced by the large amount of olive oil used in the Mediterranean diet. Unlike the high amount of animal fats typical to the American diet, olive oil lowers cholesterol levels in the blood. It is also known to lower blood sugar levels and blood pressure. In addition, the consumption of red wine in the Mediterranean area is considered a possible factor, as it contains flavonoids with powerful antioxidant properties. Dietary factors may be only part of the reason for the health benefits enjoyed by these cultures. One must also consider genetics, lifestyle, and one’s environment. Does that mean the lack of the ‘Blackberry?’

Like grapevines, olive trees are not for the impatient. The trees must be planted in the right location, and tended properly. It takes three or four years for the trees to bear fruit, and the olives should be hand-harvested at the peak of ripeness and avoid any contact with the ground. Olive growing and grape growing share other dependencies as ideal growing conditions for olive trees are deep, dry gravely soil, with good drainage, a climate that does not get below 24F that might kill the trees in the winter, nor temperatures below 30F during the months of November and December that might freeze and ruin the fruit prior to harvest.

Specialty extra virgin olive oils often sell for $20-50 per bottle--an amount that leads some people to believe it's a huge profit-maker. One must consider the cost of production. It's a labor of love, and a lifestyle issue. Until you have mature trees, it's very hard to make any money. Many producers only sell directly to the end consumer. If these specialty producers had to rely on the wholesale market for distribution, their profits would disappear.

To produce the valued extra-virgin oils, high quality fruit is crushed in either stone grinders or metal hammer mills. The paste is then mixed until oil droplets form, and pressed in either single batch hydraulic presses or continuous flow spinning presses. One alternative is a machine that selectively removes the oil from the paste without pressing. The olive juice which contains both water and oil is then separated in cream-type centrifuge separators, finally yielding the fresh and fruity olive oil that you know and love.

For most top-quality producers, the extraction method of choice begins when the newly harvested olives are ground into a paste, using heavy granite stones. The paste is then gently pressed to extract oil and water, with the water separated off either by gravity or by using a centrifuge. No chemicals or heat are used. It is also crucial that the fruit arrive at the press house quickly and without damaged olives. Otherwise, the olives will oxidize and develop a high level of oleic acid which will then downgrade its quality level.

International olive oil grading standards are somewhat complex, but here goes:

Extra-virgin olive oil comes from the first pressing of the olives, contains no more than 0.8% acidity, and is judged to have a superior taste. There can be no refined oil in extra-virgin olive oil.

Virgin olive oil has an acidity less than 2%, and judged to have a good taste. There can be no refined oil in virgin olive oil.

Pure olive oil. Oils labeled as Pure olive oil or Olive oil are usually a blend of refined olive oil and one of the above two categories of virgin olive oil.

Olive oil is a blend of virgin oil and refined oil, containing no more than 1.5% acidity. It commonly lacks a strong flavor.

Types of olives:

FRANTOIO

Widely used because of its high level of productivity, this olive delivers a fruity and lightly piquant oil with an intense color. Gentile is one of its synonyms.

MORAIOLO

The reason for this olive's popularity is its relatively early ripening and substantial yield. The oil of Moraiolo olives is characterized by a lightly grassy flavor with slight olive pit notes. The color can vary from greenish-yellow to yellow.

LECCINO

This olive is noted for its outstanding adaptability to rigid climates. Its ripening is uniform, which assures even harvesting, but its yield is moderate. Oil from Leccino olives is lightly fruity, tending to sweetish. The color is greenish-yellow.

CASALIVA
Olives are grown in the northern Italian regions of Friuli, Lombardy, Trentino and Veneto.The small olives, grown primarily for oil, are harvested when purplish-black. They have a good oil yield of 22 to 25%. The oil is light yet aromatic. The Casaliva tree does not need to cross-pollinate with another tree to bear fruit.

PENDOLINO
Found throughout central Italy and cover the hills in the immediate area surrounding Florence. These delicious olives ripen at mid-season and produce an exquisite olive oil that pairs perfectly with roasts and other rich dishes. Pendolino olives are known for producing a robust and fruity oil of excellent quality with aromas of fresh grass or hay and a hint of pepper aftertaste.

And now, on to the olive oils in our shops....

Allegrini WINE WAREHOUSE $19.99 retail $24.99 -
Frantoio, Maroiolo and Leccino olives. Aromatic and fruity with rosemary and mild spice character. A delicate perfume and silky taste, with a hint of almonds on its finish. The olives are harvested in November and December by hand or with rakes and brought to the mill on the same day; they are then stone ground and cold pressed, which helps the olives maintain their natural flavors.

Altesino WINE WAREHOUSE $24.99 retail $29.99 -
Frantoiano and Leccino olives. Delicate white apple and fresh cut grass character.

Argiolas WINE WAREHOUSE $19.99 retail $24.99 -
From Sardinia. Light, fruity and aromatic.

Castello di Bossi WINE WAREHOUSE $19.99 retail $24.99 -
Zesty, crisp and cucculent with generous fruit.

Di Majo Norante WINE WAREHOUSE $19.99 retail $25.99 -
Made from Gentile olives grown in Calabria. Full-bodied with herb and vegetable notes - excellent for bruschetta.

Falesco WINE WAREHOUSE $14.99 retail $18.99 -
Maraiolo, Frantoio and Leccino olives. Balanced pepper and sweet fruit. Very aromatic.

Falesco 'Marciliano' WINE WAREHOUSE $24.99 retail $29.99 -
Made from select olives from the orchard. Shows rosemary and spice character.

Poggio al Tesoro WINE WAREHOUSE $21.99 retail $26.99 -
Frantoio, Moraiolo, Leccino, and Pendolino olives. Aromatic and intenstly fruity.

Selvapiano WINE WAREHOUSE $26.99 retail $31.99 -
Frantoio and Moraiolo olives. Fruity with delicate herbal undertones. Stored in traditional large terracotta vats before bottling.

Sportoletti WINE WAREHOUSE $24.99 retail $29.99 ORGANIC -
Mostly Moraiolo olives. Intensely fruity with pepper spice. Cold-pressed within 24 hours of harvesting. 10 hectares (25 acres) of olive groves situated on the slopes of Monte Subasio, harvest of 20 tons of olives were picked from their 3000 trees for a total production of around 4000 litres of extra virgin oil. Rich with complex tones of artichoke and wild thistle and with herbal hints. In the mouth it is intense and full, characterized by green tones of meadow grass and with sweet almond in the closure.

Zenato WINE WAREHOUSE $29.99 retail $38.99 -
Casaliva and Leccino olives. Light, smooth and fresh. Made with traditional stone-crushing methods.

Domo arigato, Senore Zenato….

Dennis De Young of Styx will be making a pass through town here later this year and I figured it was worth some sort of a shout-out. My apologies for this blog being a little top heavy on the prices, but you will get an idea why they have to charge what they charge for these wines after we discuss the winemaking methods. Apparently shrinkage and opportunity cost affects wine prices too. Now that the weather is getting a little chillier here in Florida we can begin to think about heartier red wines again. Let's talk Amarone!

Amarone is the most famous of Italy’s dry styled, dried grape wines. Historically Amarone was produced from some of the same grape varieties and in the same production zone as Valpolicella. Amarone has recently applied for DOCG status to ensure that it is made solely from the superior Corvina and Corvinone varieties, which together can comprise between 40 and 80 per cent of the blend, together with 5–30 per cent of the lesser Rondinella.

Let me hit you with some knowledge: Amarone is made from selected, superior quality, whole grape bunches which are dried essentially to large raisins in special drying lodges. Traditionally the grapes were spread out on mats or wickerwork shelving, or strung up from the ceiling. Today most producers pick the grapes directly into slatted packing cases, stack these cases on a pallet and then transport them to a drying room controlled for temperature and humidity.

There has been a tendency to shorten the drying period in recent years, as the new drying rooms have proved more efficient not only in drying the grapes but also in preventing the development of any botrytis rot, something that is essential to control by all quality-conscious producers. The aim in the production of Amarone is to realize in the finished wine the intensity of color, flavor, and tannin in the dried grapes. As all of these components reside in the skins, anything like botrytis that degrades the skins diminishes the intensity and purity of the wine. The drying process achieves more than dehydration; it also results in a metabolization of the acids in the grape and a polymerization of tannins in the skins, something that explains the richness yet balance of good Amarone.

The use of drying rooms has also enabled producers to reduce the levels of alcohol to around 15 per cent while sacrificing none of the power and intensity that characterize good Amarone.After the drying process is finished, the grapes are crushed and fermented dry. Since the grapes lose about 50 per cent of their liquid during the drying process, the must is quite rich, so fermentation is slow to start. This can cause problems with higher than normal levels of acetic acid if the producer is not careful.

Traditionally, Amarone would have been aged in large casks made from Slovenian oak. Today, most of the best producers age at least part of their Amarone in French oak barrels to encourage the development of supple tannins, with smooth and complex flavors.Much more important for quality than the drying process is the provenance of the grapes. In 1990, Amarone comprised only eight percent of total Valpolicella production, while in 2003 this figure had risen to 25 per cent. With DOCG status, there will be strict standards across the region.

As Amarone is a big wine by itself, it is traditionally drunk with game, roasted and grilled meats, hearty dishes, casseroles and well matured cheeses. There is a school of thought that feels that Amarone has a distinctive flavor which can also accompany exotic sweet and sour dishes and is also suited for drinking with Asian and Middle-Eastern dishes. Regardless, serve slightly chilled to mitigate the higher level of alcohol and open the bottle an hour before the meal to soften the wine.

The Azienda Zenato is owned by the Zenato family. Sergio Zenato founded it in 1960 and has poured his efforts into the land by experimenting with new vineyard plantings.

Zenato Amarone is made from 80% Corvina, 10% Rondinella, 5% Molinara and 5% Sangiovese grapes grown in the Valpolicella Classico zone, in the communes of Sant’Ambrogio, Negrar, Pedemonte, Fumane, San Pietro in Cariano and Marano. The grapes are picked into small, 2.5 kg trays, where they are cleaned and placed on drying mats for 4 months in dry, well-ventilated rooms. In January they are finally crushed, then very slowly fermented on the skins; the wine goes into 300-litre French barrels and Slavonian oak barrels for maturation, followed by a year’s ageing in bottle before release.

Zenato Amarone 2001, Retail $59.99 Warehouse $49.99

We also carry Zenato’s Olive Oil which is delicious…

Zenato Olive Oil, Retail $38.99 Warehouse $29.99


Obviously Senore Zenato is not the only guy making Amarone in the Veneto. The Allegrini Farm is located in Fumane di Valpolicella. The Allegrini family has been among the main characters of Valpolicella history since the XVI century. Giovanni Allegrini was among the first winegrowers to question local practices, which changed habits and succeeded in raising quality; he also used this attitude in adding oenological know-how to in the severe selection of grapes which helped produce some of the finest wines of the Valpolicella in the Sixties and Seventies.

A well-structured, complex, elegant and velvety wine, with intense ruby red color. It has a warm and spicy bouquet, with the subtle aroma of fresh raisins. Allegrini Amarone is produced from 80% Corvina Veronese, 15% Rondinella and 5% Molinara grapes, by using the thousand-year-old technique of Appassimento which translates to natural drying. This drying of the grapes takes 3-4 months in the drying loft, where they lose 40-45% of their original weight. The resulting wines can age for 20 years.

Allegrini Amarone 2001, Retail $69.99 Warehouse $59.99
Allegrini Amarone 2000, Retail $69.99 Warehouse $59.99

Allegrini’s ‘Corte Giara’ Extra Virgin Olive Oil has a delicate perfume and silky taste, with a hint of almonds on its finish. The olives are harvested in November and December by hand or with rakes and brought to the mill on the same day; they are then stone ground and cold pressed, which helps the olives maintain their natural flavors.

Allegrini Olive Oil, Retail $24.99 Warehouse $19.99

Taking a departure from the traditional, we will wonder into the ‘new world’ and visit a producer who is using Amarone style winemaking on one of its wines. The Hobbs famiy of Australia fancy themselves as being “wine enthusiasts” from way back and are happy to have relocated from the city life to tend a magnificent old vineyard in the Barossa. The vineyard has only 15 acres of vines and grows some of the Barossa’s oldest Shiraz vines planted at the turn of the last century. The vineyard is situated in the Barossa Ranges where the cooler climate and distinct soil structure provide idyllic conditions to produce fruit of exceptional quality. The vineyard is managed using minimal cultivation and the adaptation of many biodynamic techniques.

Each vine is hand pruned and hand picked. Over the years by hand pruning they have been able to remove the old dead wood from the old vines to re-establish their original shape giving these vines renewed vitality and longevity to potentially last another hundred years or longer!

The 2004 has yet to be reviewed by a third party. The Gregor 04 is made from Shiraz grapes that are hand picked and then placed onto drying racks. Over a period of time the drying process concentrates the berry flavors while maintaining their natural acids giving a unique flavor characteristic found only in this style of wine.

The palate is a mouthful of concentrated ripe red cherries and plums showing layers of spice and pepper. The acids and tannins are finely balanced. Long, lingering and intense flavors. Aged in new French oak for 24 months. Only 230 cases were produced for the world.

Hobbs ‘The Gregor’ Shiraz 2004, Retail $114.99 Warehouse $89.99

And we still have some of the 03 remaining. This one has been reviewed. If anyone needs a high scoring red to take to a dinner party, this may be your ticket.

Made from yields of two tons of fruit per acre, and aged two years in both new and old French oak, the 2003 Shiraz Gregor possesses a roasted/scorched earth character as some of the fruit is dried a la Amarone. Rich and full-bodied, with a broodingly dense, concentrated style, an inky/blue/purple color, fabulous length as well as intensity, and riveting fruit, it can be enjoyed over the next 12-15 years. 96pts Wine Advocate

Hobbs ‘The Gregor’ Shiraz 2003, Retail $124.99 Warehouse $99.99

Hope that this blog’s info gives you a ‘raisin’ to try these dried grape style wines……..

Sustainable; is it just Organic with an insurance policy?

Sustainability is making its way into many facets of our lives. Sustainable building practices and development are being encouraged in our communities. Sustainable furniture from recycled materials is making it into our homes and businesses. Sustainability in food products exists with an emphasis on lower levels or the elimination of chemicals in the growth of the plant or animal. The responsible attitude that favors a more carbon neutral footprint on the planet is appealing to the soul of the consumer.

Let me hit you with some knowledge: Sustainability in grape growing is a viticultural practice which aims to avoid any form of environmental degradation while maintaining the economic viability of the vineyard. It is defined by the Sustainable Agriculture Research and Education Program at the University of California at Davis as ‛the principle that we must meet the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs.’

Sustainability is both a priority and a lifestyle with the benefits being two-fold: the practices are gentle on the earth and many winemakers believe they result in brighter, more flavorful wine that better reflect the characteristics of the land from which they are grown. Sustainable agriculture is the first step towards the practice of organic farming. Is it ideal? No. Just because one documents the chemicals used, there are still chemicals being utilized. So sustainable is only as good as the farmer who uses the practice.

The reduction of agrochemicals in grape farming can have many benefits. With chemical reduction on farms, winery workers are not subject to breathing these chemicals with the added benefit of no risk of any chemical residue making it into your wine. With less agrochemicals, the vine and the soil that it lives in is said to be healthier and more resistant to maladies. Depending on the vineyard site, it may be less expensive to farm without chemical treatments. Large wineries such as Gallo and Robert Mondavi have been moving some of their vineyards to organic farming in advance of impending health initiatives in California and with the thought of being able to benefit from the ability to be able to market an ‘organically grown’ product. Any reduction in potential liability for a corporation will be a benefit to both the corporation and its customers.

One of our favorite new world wineries is Cono Sur from Chile. Cono Sur embodies a fresh and contemporary approach to viticulture and wine making combined with passion for quality and innovation. Cono Sur has a range of organic wines with the first in our stores being a Pinot Noir from the Colchagua Valley. Cono Sur began their Pinot Noir project in 1999, with the idea of producing the finest Pinot Noir in Chile. After that goal was achieved, they set out to create a world quality Pinot Noir that is unique, expressive and yet still indicative of its new world roots. Old world expertise comes from Martin Prieur of Domaine Jacques Prieur, the seasoned Pinot Noir winemaker who was integral in helping Cono Sur to select many of the best Chilean terroirs for Pinot Noir and who guides them on how to optimally care for these vineyards. Under the radar, Cono Sur may have become the most substantial producer of Pinot Noir in the world; this year’s estimate is one-quarter of a million cases and growing. The sustainable offering is somewhat highly allocated though.

The farming of Cono Sur Sustainable Pinot Noir was designed to make efficient use of renewable resources, protect the environment and cause minimum impact to the surrounding ecological system utilizing the finest sustainable agriculture practices. The geese above are natural predators for the vine pest called burrito that can affect the vine. The bicycle is on the label of the bottle as this is the low impact way of getting workers through the vineyard with no carbon emissions and little to no soil compaction.


Starting with the 2009 vintage, this wine will be certi­fied organic as this Pinot Noir is essentially grown using organic principles but has to go through a three year waiting period to become officially organic. The grapes are grown on Cono Sur’s main vineyard in the Colchagua Valley. The soil is composed of well drained alluvial gravels that have a low to moderate vigor. The cool nights and foggy mornings of this part of the valley is perfect for growing Pinot Noir.

During the vinification process, the grapes were de-stemmed and punched down in open stainless steel fermentors after a cold maceration of the pulp with the skins. The finished wine spent 10 months in half new and half once used French oak barrels.

This Pinot Noir has a vibrant red color with intense aromatics. Bright, juicy and fresh in the mouth, with notes of cherry, raspberry and strawberry married with hints of plum and a subtle smokiness.

Cono Sur ‘Sustainable’ Pinot Noir 2006, Retail $13.99 Warehouse $9.99

Unfortunately this wine is limited and will likely be around for only a few weeks. $10 Pinot that is grown using organic methods…….a nice buy for you Pinot lovers out there.

This is officially blog #52 for those of you counting at home. One whole year! Whoopie! Thanks for following the blog. We hope that you find the blog both informative and slightly entertaining. Peace, out.

More than just a poor man’s Priorat…..

The neighbor of Spain’s now famous Priorat region, Montsant is historically and culturally quite similar to its famous neighbor. Located in northeastern Spain, not far from the Catalan capitol of Barcelona, Montsant lies just to the west of the Priorat and shares the hilly, rocky landscape. Montsant is one of Spain's newest DO’s that was created in 2001 from the former Falset zone of Tarragona, which lies in the valley between the Serra de Montsant and Serra de Montalt ranges. Montsant produces some of Spain's best red wine values and its potential for quality is only starting to be explored.

As in Priorat, Montsant’s vines consist mainly of Garnacha and Cariñena with some more recent plantings of international red grapes. Old Garnacha and Cariñena vineyards on steep slopes enable Montsant to produce wines of very similar style and quality to Priorat. Priorat’s best wines tend to remind me of a slightly rustic version of a top Chateauneuf du Pape wine. Montsant is similar, perhaps a touch less intense but at also more of a value.

Let me hit you with some knowledge: Montsant’s climate is dry, promoting low yields which result in wines with structural and flavor intensity. Montsant’s nearly 5000 acres of vineyards were given their own identity in order to highlight its superior quality. The soil structure contains predominantly limestone over granite with an occasional patch of the famous Priorat slate. In Montsant, vineyard parcels are planted at altitudes between 300 and 700 meters above sea level. The climate is Mediterranean and is quite warm with moderate rainfall levels. Soil in the lower altitudes is deep, rich, and fertile while soil in the northern altitudes is very poor, with high levels of schist and granite. Many of the higher altitude vineyard parcels are terraced with extremely old vines. These terraces have much in common with those of the Priorat.

Let’s head to the wines. In 2001, proprietor Alfredo Arribas began the Clos del Mas del Portal Project in Priorat with the purchase of the Mas del Portal property and other adjoining lands situated between the villages of Bellmunt, El Molar and El Loar. With the help of partners Agustí Peris and Jean Luc Colombo, the Portal Project took shape. To supplement the existing vines, the terraced banks on the property were restored. These banks, which create very narrow areas for cultivation, had been abandoned for years. They planted the terraces with low producing, clonally selected vines of the region's traditional grape varietals. Some experimental varietals were planted as well. The vineyard continues to be farmed utilizing organic practices. The winery’s organic viticulture goes the extra kilometer in keeping with the cutting edge philosophy of the winery.

A final piece of Portal del Montsant was put in place with the involvement of enologist Ricard Rofes. Ricard has brought with him a profound knowledge of some of the finest wines of the region, such as Les Sorts and Masroig. Portal de Monsant was born when the quality of the excellent 2004 vintage begged the group to create Santbru, a wine of the Montsant Denomination of Origin that was produced using very mature vines of Montsant's traditional varietals. This allowed Portal to now create excellent wines from both Priorat and Montsant.

We tasted the regular wine that Portal de Montsant produces called Brunus and were blown away! This 05 just screams character and class. Brunus is produced from 60% Cariñena, 35% Garnacha and 5% Syrah vines that average 35-70 years of age. The un-irrigated vineyard’s soil is composed of chalk and clay that produce extremely low yields that produce just over one ton to the acre. The grapes are hand harvested and fermented in temperature controlled vats before aging for eight months in first year French Allier barrels. Brunus was bottled without filtration. Only 14,000 bottles of Brunus 05 were produced for the world. This wine is an opulent wonder of a wine. A mouthful of big, jammy fruit, with a brawny-beefy character is Brunus’ mantra. Included is the Wine Advocate review below. I still can’t figure out how this wine and under $10 Garnacha wines get the same rating? Good for the value people I suppose, not based on reality for wines like this though. We love Las Rocas and Menguante’s base Garnacha wines and their 90 point scores, but try this wine next to them and please tell me that they are even in the same ballpark……

‘The 2005 Brunus is a blend of 60% Carinena, 35% Garnacha, and 5% Syrah aged 8 months in one-year-old French oak and bottled unfiltered. Purple-colored, it exhibits a very fragrant bouquet of smoke, vanilla, forest floor, and blackberry liqueur. This is followed by a full-bodied, mouth-filling wine with layered blueberry fruit and well integrated tannin and acidity leading to a pure, fruity finish. Drink this tasty effort over the next 6 years.’ 90pts Wine Advocate

Brunus ‘Montsant’ 2005, Retail $24.99 Warehouse $19.99

As stated earlier, Montsant had achieved full AOC status in the last few years after spending several years as a sub-zone of Tarragona. Perennial WW favorite winery, Capcanes was the leader in this fight for full D.O. status. The property is situated in the village of Capcanes and served for several years as the village cooperative. In the 1990’s, the co-op began making kosher wines for the Jewish population of Barcelona, and from that exposure in the much larger city, the property began to attract a greater level of interest. US importer, Eric Solomon approached Capcanes and asked for a custom blend to be made from some of the better vines of the property. Capcanes has been a value leader in the WW for years now.

Eric Solomon of European Cellars was completely impressed with the results of his custom blend. Eric then spoke with the owners of Capcanes about making a large quality investment at the bodega. The older vines of the property are now being vinified separately and pass through extensive modern oaking regimes while the young vines are experiencing higher levels of sorting and less wood to emphasize the fresh fruit characters of the grapes. The Capcanes winery owns some of the most impressive old vine vineyards in the Montsant region.

‘The 2004 Mas Donis Barrica is 85% Garnacha from 80+-year-old vines and 15% Syrah aged for 8 months in French and American oak. Opaque purple, it has a wonderfully expressive nose of spice box, pencil lead, pepper, blueberry, and blackberry liqueur. On the palate the wine is full-bodied with layers of ripe, spicy black fruits, nicely concealed tannins, and a long, pure finish. It is an outstanding value for drinking now and over the next 4-6 years.’ 90pts Wine Advocate


Capcanes Mas Donis 2004, Retail $13.99 Warehouse $9.99

Capcanes Cal Siscon 2002, Retail $18.99 Warehouse $12.99

Did I ever tell you the story about the uncooked quail egg on top of one of the courses at dinner in Tarragona? Made for a wild ride after the visit to Priorat the next day. Psychedelic, man........