Ah, the 1970’s and 80’s. Life was good for the producers of Beaujolais. The world was in love with the hip trend of gulping vast amounts of an electric red liquid we know as Beaujolais Nouveau. Back in 1988 Beaujolais Nouveau accounted for an astounding 60% of the region’s production. Nouveau is an accountant’s dream. Beaujolais nouveau is produced quickly, cheaply and with almost an immediate ‘ROI.’ During the 80’s I was spending my time as a wholesaler trying to convince restaurants to be ‘cutting edge’ and put all nine crus of Beaujolais on their wine lists, even though the growers and producers of Beaujolais seemed to be putting most of their efforts into marketing and selling Nouveau. Unfortunately for the Beaujolais producers, fashions have changed. Beaujolais Nouveau is now less trendy around the world and to make matters worse, a French periodical has recently called the wines from the Beaujolais region ‘les vins de merde’ which is untranslatable in this politically correct wine blog. It’s something about the meeting of wine and the number 2. After much consternation and a lawsuit against the periodical, the Beaujolais producers and marketers have begun to emphasize the quality wines of the region.OK, all of you Sommeliers out there, Regnié was indeed added in 1988 to the Crus of Beaujolais and there are now 10 instead of the previously alluded to 9 crus. From north to south the names are St-Amour, Juliénas, Chénas, Moulin-à-Vent, Fleurie, Chiroubles, Morgon, Regnié, Brouilly and Côte de Brouilly. These 10 Cru wines from are all from Beaujolais, but are not likely to refer to Beaujolais on their labels.The most profound wines from Beaujolais are often found in Morgon and Moulin à Vent, which can taste more and more like Pinot Noir as they age, even though they are made from the Gamay grape. According to DNA analysis Gamay is the member of a vast family of Burgundian grapes spawned by Pinot Noir and obscure white grape variety Gouais Blanc. Gamay is therefore also related to all the other Pinots, Chardonnay and Melon de Bourgogne, the Muscadet grape.
Beaujolais for early consumption is vinified quickly in sealed vats using the carbonic maceration method where the grapes are the bottom of the vat are crushed by those at the top which may never been crushed but ferment in the atmosphere of carbon dioxide. Now more and more growers, particularly those in the Beaujolais crus, are once again, making their wines similarly to traditional red Burgundy, fermenting the grape in open wooden vats and ageing them in small barrels, so that the overall effect is a much deeper-colored, more tannic, long-lived wine that may not be ready to drink until four or more years after the harvest. These more traditional wines still have Gamay’s refreshing acidity and bright fruit, but they also have many qualities that make them seem more like Pinot Noir in Burgundy.
Before the feud between Robert Parker and Kermit Lynch, Mr. Parker wrote in adoring prose about four of KL’s Beaujolais producers from Morgon in Beaujolais; anointing them ‘The Gang of Four.’ Marcel Lapierre, Jean-Paul Thevenet, Guy Breton and Jean Foillard form the ‘Gang of Four’ who’s principles include harvesting at the latest possible moment for ultimate ripeness and flavor, farming organically or bio-dynamically, no sulfur or commercial yeast are added during fermentation and the wines are not filtered. These wines are a pure as you are going to see, with the one caveat being that they may not be a stable as an adjusted and filtered wine. It is best to ship and store them cool for stability so WW brings these wines in on a refrigerated container and we house the wines at 63 degrees Fahrenheit in our warehouse. WW has three of ‘The Gang’s’ 05’s in stores for your pleasure.
Marcel Lapierre Morgon 2005
Lapierre farms 22 acres of 40 year old vines in Granitic soil. Production averages around 3500 cases per year. This is the flashiest of the ‘Gang’ when first opened. This wine shows a vibrant black-cherry color with a rich, meaty, raspberry nose. The palate shows the structure of a fine Pinot Noir with enticing aromatics of raspberry and blueberries. This is serious stuff! Continues to gain aromatics and flavor in the glass.
Retail $ 21.99 Warehouse $16.99
Guy Breton Morgon 2005
This Vielles Vignes cuvee is produced from grapes grown on 80 year old vines. Only 1700 cases are produced on average per annum. The 2005 sports a pretty shade of a cross between raspberry and red roses. I cannot escape the feeling that this wine is a dead ringer for Pinot Noir. Silky cranberry with a touch of blue fruits emerge on the palate. Character continues to expand in the glass. This wine will drink well now, but should keep well for at least a decade.
Retail $24.99 Warehouse $19.99
Jean-Paul Thevenet Morgon 2005Thevenet farms 12 acres of vines that average 70 years in age. Production averages 2000 cases per year. Has a bricky purple color. While the Lapierre and Breton wines remind me of Pinot Noir, the aroma of the Thevenet reminds me more of their southern neighbor’s wine, Hermitage. He uses long skin contact and also uses the carbonic maceration method. This wine has old vine intensity, meaty, deep berry, smoky and sweaty characters. Very intense. Somewhat gamey and meaty with deep berry characters in its core. Try with a roast.
Retail $24.99 Warehouse $19.99
And now we bring you the King. He is neither Elvis nor Arnold Palmer, but the King of Beaujolais, Georges Duboeuf. Since the early 80’s, Duboeuf has dominated this region with his well designed flower labels, interesting bottles, grower bottlings and more importantly, sound wines.
Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais Villages 2005Not since his ‘Vintage of the Sun’ from 1985 has there been as profound a Duboeuf Beaujolais Villages as this 2005. I can recall being in Burgundy in September of 1985 wishing that I had an air conditioner. The grapes for this wine came from the Villages vineyards which have a higher pedigree than AC Beaujolais and less of a pedigree than the crus. This wine displays a fluorescent magenta color, has an effusive banana and raspberry nose, on the palate the texture is silky yet substantial. There are fresh, fruity, jammy, bubblegummy and lively flavors on the palate. Well balanced, with a surprising amount of guts. This and the La Vieille Ferme Cotes du Ventoux could be the best $5.99 red wines that you will ever see. 1.5 Liter Retail $14.99 Warehouse $10.99 and 750ml Retail $7.99 Warehouse $5.99
Perhaps we should try to balance this blog out a little bit with a mention of a few white wines? Jean-Jaques Robert of Robert-Denogent in Pouilly Fuisse is a friend of the ‘Gang of Four’ Morgon producers. His winemaking ideals follow the same philosophies of low yields, very little added sulfur and no filtration. These are Pouilly Fuisse wines masquerading as Meursult Premier Crus. The St Veran and Macon wines are more affordable and offer many of the same characters as Denogent’s Pouilly Fuisee’s. These are all artisan wines that will result in hedonistic consequences. Jean-Jacques Robert will be visiting five of our stores in November for our final Return to France tasting of 2006.
Denogent Pouilly Fuisse La Croix VV 04, Retail $ 31.99 Warehouse $26.99
Denogent Pouilly Fuisse Les Carrons VV 04, Retail $49.99 Warehouse $39.99
Denogent Pouilly Fuisse Les Riesses VV 04, Retail $31.99 Warehouse $ 26.99
Denogent Pouilly Fuisee Claude" 04", Retail $39.99 Warehouse $34.99
Denogent St. Veran Les Pommards 04, Retail $28.99 Warehouse $24.99
Denogent Macon-Fuisse Taches 04, Retail $24.99 Warehouse $19.99
Denogent Macon-Solutre Bertillones" 04", Retail $24.99 Warehouse $19.99
And yes……………..we will have Beaujolais Nouveau commencing on November 16th………………………………………
Amities,
Monsieur Bloggy
