The New Zealand wine industry has a relatively short history in the US. The big push for US distribution did not happen until the mid 1990’s when there was finally enough extra wine to begin to open a potentially huge export market. Initially the NZ wines were a love it or hate it proposition in the US. The most marketable style of wine that NZ produces is Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc can be extremely expressive and often appears as a ‘Sancerre on steroids.’ This style was not completely understood by all consumers when first introduced as many consumers had never tried such an overt style of a dry white wine. Today this style is being emulated all over the world. The current rage in NZ wine making is Pinot Noir. For those of you who have not tried one, a cool climate NZ Pinot Noir can resemble a fine Pinot Noir from Oregon.
Let me hit you with some knowledge: There were just over 50,000 cases of NZ wine exported to the US in 1997 at 1/16th of the UK’s volume. In 2006, over one million and a half cases of NZ wine was imported into the US and moved us into a solid #2 in the world behind the UK currently at 2/3rds of their volume.
The recent worry in New Zealand is their current exchange rate to the US$. In 1998 a US$ purchased 2.5 NZ$. Today a US$ purchases 1.35 NZ$. Our market has become less profitable than many of the other NZ export markets. Hope they don’t abandon ship.
Let’s discuss the wines of Michelle Richardson.
In 1998, I had the opportunity to work in the Villa Maria winery in Auckland under Michelle Richardson. Michelle is not one to treat a two-day-wanna-be-winery-worker as a visiting dignitary. Day one was moving barrels, filling barrels from tanks and topping barrels. Day two had me pumping-over and punching-down. Hand punching Pinot Noir in 3 ton bins is good exercise. Fortunately the larger tanks had a pneumatic punching apparatus. Regardless, I was spent and actually turned down an invitation to dinner with George Fistonich who is the owner of Villa Maria. Didn’t want to fall asleep on my plate…..
Michelle Richardson’s degree is in Microbiology. After working as a flying winemaker, Michelle joined the Villa Maria Winery in 1992 and quickly progressed to become Villa Maria’s Auckland Winemaker in 1994. Her talent and experience helped her achieve an enormous responsibility by winning the job of chief winemaker for the entire Villa Maria group. Villa Maria is the largest independently owned wine group in New Zealand. After leaving Villa for a brief stint at Peregrine Wines in Central Otago, Michelle decided to venture out on her own.
Michelle’s achievements include being named Winemaker of the Show at the New Zealand Wine Society Royal Easter Show in 1997, 1998 and 2000, and she gained the title of ‘New Zealand Winemaker of the Year’ at the Australian Winestate Awards in 1998, 1999 and 2000.
At the Wine Warehouse, we have been fortunate to receive an allocation of Michelle’s wines. There is a string that runs through her wines, they all have a purity of expression, possess a sense of place with persistent, complex and long flavors in the mouth. I had the opportunity to spend a few days with her last fall. Michelle made a comment that really stood out to me that she did not wish to make automated wines. Michelle prefers to touch the grapes as they come in, feel the texture of the grape must and be in contact with the wine from its initial stage of fermentation through its final state before bottling. When you try these wines you will see what she means. The wines all have a beautiful texture and serious flavors that bring one back for the next sip.
"The foundation of my winemaking career has been making wines from various vineyards sites here and overseas. This gave me a first hand insight to how important it is to choose the right variety to that particular region and vineyard site. When it came to making wine under my own brand I wanted to make the best I could from the region I thought the variety suited. I could have chosen one region and made the wines that best suited that area but I love too many varieties and they don't all like growing in the same place.” Michelle Richardson
Wine Warehouse has just received three new releases from Michelle from the 2006 vintage. ‘2006 saw uncannily good weather as this years harvest progressed with amazingly good grace. It allowed me to get to my various vineyards around the country without any difficulties and make decisions at a leisurely pace. However, I am used to making quick assessments under pressure and relying on a gut feeling. The extra time to think initially caused me to second guess my judgments. It was an interesting observation and I decided early on that I needed to stick to my first decision. I factored in this extra 'mind time' by getting out and doing more hand-plunging of my various Pinot Noir ferments, a very physical but also a very meditative activity - a slight disclaimer is necessary - these ferments were a very manageable 3 ton size.’ Michelle Richardson
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The first wine is an exciting new project called Southern Eclipse. The initial Southern Eclipse release is the 2006 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. Michelle did a custom crush for Wine Warehouse from a different vineyard than the one who supplies the grapes for her Richardson ‘Marlborough’ Sauvignon Blanc. This cuvee is cool-fermented exclusively in stainless steel for primary fruit expression on both the bouquet and on the palate.
Southern Eclipse SB shows fresh tropical fruit aromas with green apple, gooseberry, grapefruit with a hint of passion fruit flavors on the palate. There is a nice crisp zing to the finish. This is an extremely refreshing wine that is here just in time as we head towards our summer weather. This wine is Marlborough meeting Sancerre, not running over it.
Southern Eclipse Sauvignon Blanc ‘Marlborough’ 2006, Retail $17.99 Warehouse $12.99
Richardson Sauvignon Blanc uses a combination of whole bunch and de-stemmed fruit. The whole bunch pressed fruit went through a warm wild ferment in barrel, after which it sat on lees for four months. Occasional lees stirring occurred throughout that period. The de-stemmed fruit was vat fermented at a cool (14 degrees average) temperature which captured the fruit essence and created the structure for the wine. The two procedures add to the complexity of the finished wine. Extremely balanced and complex.............
This wine has an intense bouquet, reminiscent of ripe gooseberries and melon with a hint of nettle.The palate is full and inviting with the wild ferment portion creating a viscosity that wraps around the natural Marlborough acidity, and the cooler ferment provides structure, fruit spectrum and provides a lingering and strong finish. Only 200 cases made it into the US.
Richardson Sauvignon Blanc ‘Marlborough’ 2006, Retail $24.99 Warehouse $19.99
And finally, a Riesling from Waipara, Canterbury. This on the south island near the town of Christchurch.
The Richardson Riesling was stainless steel fermented. The yeast used was a Rhine derivative selection. The grapes were all handpicked and whole bunch pressed. The free run juice fermented in stainless steel temperature controlled tanks between 13 – 15 degrees Celsius. The fermentation was stopped with a small amount of residual grape sugar for palate balance and style.
The seductive bouquet of this Riesling shows both pineapple and ginger with hints of citrus and floral tones. The front palate is fruit driven and extends to a fresh and zingy palate that takes the fruit right through to the finish. While the wine appears dry, the slight residual sugar perfectly matches the natural fruit acid and wine body. The purity of this Riesling fruit is incredible. Only 25 cases made it into the US.
Richardson Riesling ‘Waipara’ 2006, Retail $24.99 Warehouse $19.99
Watch out for the Southern Eclipse Pinot Noir 06 coming by late summer to a Wine Warehouse near you.
