As much as the Wine Warehouse appreciates a published wine review by a national publication, the majority of wines that we purchase are in advance of or in spite of a third party endorsement. The most interesting wines in the world are often limited production gems that will not wait for a review to be purchased. Certainly we pride ourselves on having the insight to judge whether a wine is worth selling in our stores whether it has a review or not. We like to feel that our wines are intelligently chosen. It’s always nice though when one’s prognostication rings true with a reviewer. Steve Tanzer of The International Wine Cellar has just come out with his reviews on the Cru Beaujolais wines from 2005.
Please don’t be frightened about spending more than $10 on a wine from Beaujolais. Small production, estate bottled Beaujolais from one of the ten Beaujolais Crus can be an eye opening and mind blowing experience if one’s only exposure to Beaujolais takes place on the third Thursday in November at a Beaujolais Nouveau party. These Cru Beaujolais can have a closer resemblance to a nice Pinot Noir wine than their more common Gamay brethren
Let me hit you with some knowledge: the ten Crus of Beaujolais from north to south are in approximate terms: St Amour, Julienas, Chenas, Moulin A Vent, Fleurie, Chiroubles, Morgon, Regnie, Brouilly and Cote de Brouilly. Like all Beaujolais they must be produced from 100% Gamay grapes and must be hand harvested.The four Cru Beaujolais that we are featuring are a pure as you are going to see, with more character than one will find in a simple Beaujolais. It is best to ship and store them cool to retain their fresh qualities so the WW brings these wines in on a refrigerated container and we house the wines at 63 degrees Fahrenheit in our warehouse. On to the wines....
Guy Breton’s Vielles Vignes Morgon 2005 cuvee is produced from grapes grown on 80 year old vines. Only 1700 cases are produced on average per year. (My review before the review)The 2005 sports a pretty shade of a cross between raspberry and red roses. I cannot escape the feeling that this wine is a dead ringer for Pinot Noir. Silky cranberry with a touch of blue fruits emerge on the palate. Character continues to expand in the glass. This wine will drink well now, but should keep well for at least a decade.Bright red. High-pitched aromas of wild strawberry, raspberry preserves and fresh flowers. Intense floral pastille notes accent ripe red berry flavors, with suave, silky tannins adding gentle support. This deepened with air, picking up a darker cherry tone but maintaining its bright, energetic personality. Here's another Cote de Beaune ringer. 91 points Steve Tanzer
Guy Breton Morgon VV 2005, Retail $25.99 Warehouse $19.99
Domaine Diochon Moulin-a-Vent Cuvee Vieilles Vignes 05, Domaine Diochon is produced from 50 year old vines grown on granite and sandstone soils. Diochon’s wines are hand harvested, traditional carbonic maceration in temperature controlled vats and aged in large oak foudres for six months before bottling.'The superb ripening and harvest gave perfect grapes, and Diochon made the most of it. Old vines, granite slopes, aged in foudre, bottled unfiltered, Diochon plus Moulin-à-Vent is quite a combo. The fruit is gorgeous, a real treat, and the wine shows remarkable finesse for its appellation.' Kermit Lynch’s notes.
Bright red. Intense raspberry and strawberry aromas are given an exotic twist by notes of black tea, mocha and dried rose. Full and lush, with sweet red berry and cherry flavors, supple tannins and impressive power on the aftertaste. A big, polished wine that marries power and finesse. I recently drank a bottle of this from 1989 and it was gorgeous. 92 points Steve Tanzer
Diochon Moulin A Vent VV 2005, Retail $21.99 Warehouse $16.99
Jean Foillard Morgon Cote du Py, Foillard farms a mere 13 acres of vines that range from 10-90 years in age. Traditional hand harvesting, carbonic maceration and a minimum of sulfur are used. This wine is stellar.Bright red. Suave, seductive nose features vibrant, floral-accented raspberry and wild strawberry aromas that deepen with air, taking a liqueur-like turn but remaining fresh. Lush, silky and sweet in the mouth, offering an energetic display of red berry and cherry flavors, gentle tannins and superb persistence. This has really extraordinary concentration, clarity and finesse. 93 points Steve Tanzer
Foillard Morgon 2005, Retail $24.99 Warehouse $19.99
Marcel Lapierre Morgon 2005. Marcel Lapierre farms 22 acres of 40 year old vines in Granitic soil. Production averages around 3500 cases per year. (My review before the review) This is the flashiest of the ‘Gang’ showing a vibrant black-cherry color with a rich, meaty, raspberry nose. The palate shows the structure of a fine Pinot Noir with enticing aromatics of raspberry and blueberries. Serious stuff! Continues to gain aromatics and flavor in the glass.Dark red with a bright rim. Lush, sexy aromas of raspberry, blackberry and Asian spices. Deep and rich on the palate, offering intense dark fruit flavors, a plush texture and gentle framing acidity. Very sexy stuff, finishing on a sweet black raspberry note, with outstanding depth and length. 92 points Steve Tanzer
Lapierre Morgon 2005, Retail $24.99 Warehouse $16.99
Please note that even though I have openely compared these wines to Pinot Noir, they are produced exclusively from the Gamay grape. Onward and upward, I always say. Take the time to slightly chill one of these Cru Beaujolais and enjoy its refreshing fruit and seductive complexity now that we're hitting the warmer weather. Twenty to thirty minutes in the fridge will do.
