Unlike the feature wines from last week whose chassis resemble Governor Arnold, we’ll take a look at several 2005 reds that are less powerful but are certain to impress. The key here is 2005. Even grapes from cool climates that typically show finesse and fine flavors are now sporting a bit of oomph!Diochon Moulin A Vent 2005
We have a blind tasting group in Jacksonville that meets every Tuesday. This week’s theme was ‘the wines of 2005.’ Everyone brought their one or two bottles and the games began. Joel (WW) brown-bagged the Diochon 05 to the tasting. I think that I was the only one to guess basically what it was as even though there were only experienced wine industry people at the tasting. It just goes to show you that we are used to tasting candied and washed out versions of Gamay (Beaujolais). This is not the case with estate bottled wines from a top producer in a top vintage. With some confidence I was able to do the drill-down; old world, France, Burgundy, Beaujolais Cru. It could have easily been the Lapierre Morgon, but was unveiled as the Diochon. If only I was as lucky guessing most of the other wines. Anyway, low producing and old vine Gamay from a Beaujolais Cru is a bit of a standout style. If you have not tried the Diochon, the Chanrion Cote de Brouilly or any of our ‘Gang of Four’ Morgon producers from the 2005 vintage you are missing out on what is likely a once in a lifetime event. The 2005 vintage in Beaujolais is felt to be the best in over 60 years.
'The superb ripening and harvest gave perfect grapes, and Diochon made the most of it. Old vines, granite slopes, aged in foudre, bottled unfiltered, Diochon plus Moulin-à-Vent is quite a combo. The fruit is gorgeous, a real treat, and the wine shows remarkable finesse for its appellation.' Kermit Lynch’s notes.Diochon Moulin A Vent VV 2005, Retail $19.99 Warehouse $16.99
Chanteleuserie Bourgeil from 2005.
Cabernet Franc from the Loire is often described as leafy when thrown into a blind tasting Some of you may recall my blog from 12-7-06 where I showed that the other marker for Loire Valley Cab Franc are beets. They’ll be neither one of these descriptors on the 2005 Chanelleuserie wines. Just ripe and spicy crushed berry fruit here. 2005 Chanteleuserie reds are simply pure, juicy and seamless on the palate. Wow! The Cuvee des Alouettes is produced from 15 year old vines grown in sandy soil. The Vieilles Vignes is produced from 65 year old vines in argilo-calcaire soils and certainly worth the extra buck.Some of you may have been lucky enough to meet Thierry and Christine Boucard on our 2006 Tour of France tastings. Given the state of the dollar versus the Euro, I was amazed at what a value that these wines still offer to the consumer. You’ll be hard pressed to find another $12 or $13 wine to compete with these two for their quality to value ratio. I know that we inhabit a large planet. You’ll still have to do some serious looking. Just read what importer Kermit Lynch had to say about these wines.
‘The 2005s from Boucard really blew my mind. It was my first visit this summer tasting Loire reds, and we began with this very juicy cuvée. Old man Boucard was there, and I asked him if he could remember a similar vintage, because it was exciting to discover 2005. He mulled it over and said that 2003 came to mind, but that 2003 was an early-maturing vintage. “These 2005s,” he said, “are more like the great 1947s. They are true vins de garde. It is rare to have such balance and structure with such levels of ripeness.” Great deep color, almost black. Ripe, delicious blackberry fruit, yes, blackberry, from a Cabernet Franc! Round, harmonious, impressive all over, and—I guarantee it—so swallowable.’ Kermit Lynch
Chanteleuserie Bourgeil Cuvee VV 2005, Retail $ 15.99 Warehouse $12.99
Chanteleuserie Bourgeil ‘Les Alouettes’ 2005, Retail $14.99 Warehouse $11.99
Ninth Island Pinot Noir 2005, Tasmania.
Although Australia is not often associated with the Pinot Noir grape, the island of Tasmania has more similarities in its climate to New Zealand than it does Australia. Northern Tasmania is often shrouded by ocean mists which often blanket the vineyards in northern Tasmania.The Ninth Island grapes are grown on a mixture of Vertosol soils (Black Cracking Clays), characteristic of their Tamar Valley vineyards, and Ferrosols (Volcanic soils), from their Pipers River vineyards. Both these soil types have an excellent water holding capacity, offering a steady supply of moisture and nourishment to the vines throughout the growing season.
The 2005 harvest commenced and lasted throughout the month of April from blocks located in the Tamar Valley and Pipers River region. Harvesting in April in the southern hemisphere is the equivalent of harvesting throughout October in the north. It shows that Tasmania is truly a cool climate region. The vines are predominantly grown on Vertical Shoot Positioning (VSP) trellises, which helps to expose the ripening bunches to the sun, which assists in achieving full ripeness and well-balanced flavors coupled with fine tannins.
Ninth Island’s aim with this wine is to bring all of the attributes of Pinot Noir to a peak at an early stage of the wine’s life. To achieve this, the grapes were immediately crushed and destemmed then fermented in a combination of Vinimatic and open vat ferments. The grape must is then inoculated and fermented at between 20-30˚C for a period of 5 to 8 days before being Pressed off into stainless steel vessels. The wine then completes full malolactic fermentation and is then bottled early under screw cap. This allows the wine to attain a style, which is intensely perfumed with soft velvety tannins and fresh vibrant fruit. As 2005 was a very even and ripe growing season, you will find this wine to have very juicy, crushed red fruit characters with a bright vibrancy on the palate. We opened one yesterday and were immediately impressed. This is the best Ninth Island that I have ever tasted.
You may have noticed that your favorite Pinot Noirs have been steadily creeping up in price. It is rare nowadays to find a Pinot Noir that is a good value. The Ninth Island Pinot Noir delivers.
Ninth Island Pinot Noir 2005, Retail $19.99 Warehouse $14.99
Taz can drive too!
