"Many believe this is where the Pinot grail is to be found" (Jancis Robinson - Wine Atlas of the World)
“This is God’s Country when it comes to Pinot Noir.” (James Halliday in Panorama 2000)
“Central Otago, Git’ r’ done.” (Larry ‘the Cable Guy’ 2006)
I hate to come off like a chamber of commerce mouthpiece. Here it goes anyway. Ever picture a place as beautiful as Aspen or Vail with the ability to grow world class Pinot Noir? Picture the clean green land of New Zealand. Enter Central Otago, New Zealand's most inland region. Central Otago, affectionately called "Central" by those that know it well, covers an area of 10,000 km and has fewer than 16,000 permanent residents. “Central” is the home of the first ‘bungee jump’ and the land of fiords. “Central” is also NZ’s hottest, coldest and driest region. Located on a fragmented schist plateau in a semi-desert environment, “Central” is a living museum, scattered with historic features preserved by a dry climate. This peaceful, powerful place has barely changed over centuries. With so much to discover, “Central” is fast becoming one of New Zealand's leading tourist destinations. If you enjoy beautiful landscapes, summer sunshine, a bountiful grape harvest in the fall and skiing in the winter, “Central” might just be your place.
“There are no traffic lights or metered parking anywhere in Central Otago. Air pollution is not an issue. Despite the low population density, our facilities will match those of any other region in the country. We have excellent schools and medical services. Most of the major retail chains are represented and there is a thriving, and growing, cafe and art scene. The district abounds in wineries and is the source of a number of world-renowned wines, especially Pinot Noir, the local specialty.” Central Otago’s Mayor McPherson.
My fondest memories of “Central” are many. My first trip was in March of 2000. The first memory was having the stewardess on the flight from Auckland to Queenstown ask my then 6 year old whether he was ready to go visit the pilots in the cockpit. This was in 2000 remember. We had stunning views overlooking Mount Cook while discussing NZ wines with the pilots. The next memory was learning to drive on the wrong side of the road. The bellman at Millbrook golf resort told me the key to driving in New Zealand; remember to keep your 'passenger in the ditch.' Funny enough, it made sense. The last and most poignant memory to this blog were the wines that evening; Gibbston Valley and Felton Road Pinot Noirs. Wow! There is nothing better than partaking in a world-class wine within kilometres of where its grapes were grown. Central Otago is officially on the world-class wine map. “Central” to me is very Oregonian in its style with many of its wines being quite favourably priced.
The Central Otago Pinot Noir Celebration last January was a blast. I was picked up by Amisfield winemaker Jeff Sinnott and whisked off to a blind tasting of 100 Pinot Noirs from around the country. This was arranged by the wines of New Zealand and shows the country's unity. What other regional wine festival would allow a tasting of their competitors wines at their venue? The tasting was arranged in a giant horseshoe and was arranged by region with the wines being in numbered brown paper bags. Felton Road winmaker Blair Walter looked after the tasting and was another incredible host chauffeuring around many a guest. After a free evening there was a bus that took us to a custom crush facility the next morning for a tasting of many of the 'Central' wineries. The 04 releases and 05 barrel samples were shown. The 04's are good but the 05's are stunning. After the tasting, the bus took us to Mt Difficulty for lunch and more tasting. Dinner that evening was a casual affair under a tent on the lake in the center of Queenstown. The next morning there were a few seminars with Allen Meadows of Burghound. The tasting was of the 2002 Burgundy wines of Jean Jacques Confuron. Ted Lemon of Littorai of Sonoma consults in Central Otago was part of the Burgundy panel and also showed his own wines. Lunch was on the lake and I was off to Marlborough the next day. Wineries that stood out at the event were Richardson, Rockburn, Olssen's, Felton Road, Amisfield and Akarua.
Let me hit you with some knowledge: Central Otago is the southern-most grape-growing region in the world located at latitude 45ยบ south (similar to both Oregon’s Willamette Valley, U.S.A., and Burgundy in France). The first wine-grapes were planted in Central Otago in 1864. Despite the district’s potential as a wine growing area being recognized by French and Australian viticulturists from the 1860’s onwards, wine-grapes were not commercially grown again in Central Otago for more than a century. Modern day wine growing began in 1972 and shortly followed in 1975 with experimental plantings at Rippon Vineyard, Lake Wanaka. The first commercial release of a Pinot Noir from Central Otago, the regions flagship variety, was the 1987 vintage from pioneer Alan Brady at the Gibbston Valley winery.
Rockburn, Central Otago. As I was boarding a plane to go to Melbourne, Australia via Auckland, New Zealand from Seoul, Korea after taking off from Washington Dulles……..thank you Delta frequent flyer miles……I had received an e-mail on my blackberry from Chris James of Rockburn. Chris found out that I was traveling to the Central Otago Pinot Noir Fest after the MW seminar in Melbourne and wanted me to taste his wines. Rockburn’s wines are first class and the rest is history. Wine Warehouse is the first to bring them into Florida.
Rockburn’s vineyards are bounded on the west by mountains on whose seaward slopes are rain forests, which receive 5000mm of rain a year. Heavy frosts are common throughout winter and frost can occur at any time between March and November. These vines are susceptible to frost in the growing season and as a result most vineyards are on warm north-facing slopes which promote cold-air drainage. On flatter sites wind machines, water sprinklers and misting systems or other frost protection measures are adopted. To the east is a barren, moon-like landscape that receives less than 25mm of rain a year. Situated between these extremes are Rockburn’s vineyards that produce not only Pinot Noir of stunning quality (gold medals at New Zealand Wine Society Royal Easter Wine Show, Bragato Awards, Air New Zealand,and Winestate Wine of the Year) , but also medal winning Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris , Riesling and Gewutztraminer.
In early 2006 Rockburn opened their winery and tasting facility in Cromwell to handle the 06 vintage. The new winemaker is Malcolm Francis who was previously with Felton Road. Prior to this vintage the wine was custom crushed by one of ‘Central’s’ star winemakers, Rudi Schultz, the dynamic Austrian from Quartz Reef vineyard.
In “Central” it has become apparent that like Burgundy there are distinct 'appellations' within the region. The Gibbston Valley tends to produce Pinot Noir with beautiful perfume, reminiscent of violets, and earthy, forest floor sensations on the palate. The Lowburn- Bannockburn area Pinot Noir tends to produce wines with darker color with fuller-bodied and sweeter fruit. For this reason to fully exploit the potential of the region it is a distinct advantage to have vineyards in different 'appellations'. Rockburn grows its Pinot Noir from its own Gibbston Valley and Lowburn fruit.
Some notes on Rockburn's 2003 Pinot Noir:
Jancis Robinson, M.W. 18/20 – Vibrant, deep, intense nose. Extremely full and fruity start with some fine, grainy tannin on the finish and very good acidity. Round and slightly herbal.
93pts Gold Medal - June 2005 Home & Entertaining Magazine – “It’s a mix of black cherry, plum, and dried spice flavours with a silken texture and lingering finish. A minor fruit bomb with appealing sappy complexity.” Bob Campbell, M.W.
90pts July 2005 Wine Spectator “Tangy and rich, with lovely, ripe strawberry and blackberry flavors supported by zingy acidity, all of it lasting nicely on the generous finish.” Harvey Steinman
Gold Medal – New Zealand International Wine Show 2005.
Rockburn ‘Central Otago’ Pinot Noir 2003, Retail $29.99 Warehouse $21.99
Other NZ Pinots to look out for:
Richardson ‘Central Otago’ Pinot Noir 2004, Retail $49.99 Warehouse $39.99
look for the 05 to be here in March.
Felton Road ‘Central Otago’ Pinot Noir 2004, Retail $44.99 Warehouse $34.99
Vidal Marlborough Pinot Noir 2004, Retail $29.99 Warehouse $21.99
Villa Maria ‘Cellar Select’ Marlborough Pinot Noir 2005, Retail $29.99 Warehouse $ 21.99
Villa Maria ‘ Private Bin’ Marlborough Pinot Noir 2005, Retail $21.99 Warehouse $17.99
Who needs resveratrol tablets anyway? Make mine a Pinot Noir please.Bloggy new year.
