26 October, 2007

Olive oil; more than just 'fun for the Spartans'


One of Mother Nature’s most remarkable gifts is a high quality olive oil. High quality olive oils capture the essence of the olive, and are capable of marrying with a vast diversity of foods. Making great olive oil requires an obsessive attention to detail resulting from an ideal location, low yields and harvesting at just the right moment before the olives turn from green to black. Only the finest producers go to such trouble and expense.

Over 750 million olive trees are cultivated worldwide, with about 95 percent of the trees being located in the Mediterranean region. About 93 percent of global olive oil production comes from Spain, Italy , Turkey, and Greece. In olive oil-producing countries, the local production is generally considered the finest. Here in the US, Italian olive oil is the best-known, with top-quality extra-virgin oils from Italy. Demand for Italian olive oil has soared in the United States.
Historically, there is evidence of oil pressing having taken place as far back as 6000 BC. In the centuries that followed, olive presses became a common sight from the Atlantic shore of North Africa to the settlements along the Nile. Until 1500 BC, the eastern coastal areas of the Mediterranean were most heavily cultivated. Olive tree growing then spread into Southern Gaul by the Celtic tribes during the 7th century BC.

To highlight some of the many uses of olive oil throughout history, the Spartans were known to use olive oil to rub themselves while exercising in the gym. The practice was said to highlight the beauty of the male body. This decorative use of olive oil quickly spread to all of Hellenic city states, together with naked appearance of athletes, and lasted close to a thousand years despite its great expense. It is rumored that these rituals, although currently underground, still exist and are taking place in rooms known as the ’V-I-P.’ The current ‘buy three and get one’ will certainly help mitigate some of these costs.

Let me hit you with some healthy knowledge: There is evidence from epidemiological studies to suggest that a higher proportion of monounsaturated fats in the diet is linked with a reduction in the risk of coronary heart disease. This is of significance because olive oil is considerably rich in monounsaturated fats, most notabably oleic acid. There is also a large body of clinical data to show that consumption of olive oil can provide heart health benefits such as favorable effects on cholesterol regulation and low density lipoprotein cholesterol oxidation, and that it exerts antiinflamatory, antithrombotic, antihypertensive as well as vasodilatory effects both in animals and in humans.

Olive oil’s healthy properties are evidenced by the large amount of olive oil used in the Mediterranean diet. Unlike the high amount of animal fats typical to the American diet, olive oil lowers cholesterol levels in the blood. It is also known to lower blood sugar levels and blood pressure. In addition, the consumption of red wine in the Mediterranean area is considered a possible factor, as it contains flavonoids with powerful antioxidant properties. Dietary factors may be only part of the reason for the health benefits enjoyed by these cultures. One must also consider genetics, lifestyle, and one’s environment. Does that mean the lack of the ‘Blackberry?’

Like grapevines, olive trees are not for the impatient. The trees must be planted in the right location, and tended properly. It takes three or four years for the trees to bear fruit, and the olives should be hand-harvested at the peak of ripeness and avoid any contact with the ground. Olive growing and grape growing share other dependencies as ideal growing conditions for olive trees are deep, dry gravely soil, with good drainage, a climate that does not get below 24F that might kill the trees in the winter, nor temperatures below 30F during the months of November and December that might freeze and ruin the fruit prior to harvest.

Specialty extra virgin olive oils often sell for $20-50 per bottle--an amount that leads some people to believe it's a huge profit-maker. One must consider the cost of production. It's a labor of love, and a lifestyle issue. Until you have mature trees, it's very hard to make any money. Many producers only sell directly to the end consumer. If these specialty producers had to rely on the wholesale market for distribution, their profits would disappear.

To produce the valued extra-virgin oils, high quality fruit is crushed in either stone grinders or metal hammer mills. The paste is then mixed until oil droplets form, and pressed in either single batch hydraulic presses or continuous flow spinning presses. One alternative is a machine that selectively removes the oil from the paste without pressing. The olive juice which contains both water and oil is then separated in cream-type centrifuge separators, finally yielding the fresh and fruity olive oil that you know and love.

For most top-quality producers, the extraction method of choice begins when the newly harvested olives are ground into a paste, using heavy granite stones. The paste is then gently pressed to extract oil and water, with the water separated off either by gravity or by using a centrifuge. No chemicals or heat are used. It is also crucial that the fruit arrive at the press house quickly and without damaged olives. Otherwise, the olives will oxidize and develop a high level of oleic acid which will then downgrade its quality level.
International olive oil grading standards are somewhat complex, but here goes:

Extra-virgin olive oil comes from the first pressing of the olives, contains no more than 0.8% acidity, and is judged to have a superior taste. There can be no refined oil in extra-virgin olive oil.

Virgin olive oil has an acidity less than 2%, and judged to have a good taste. There can be no refined oil in virgin olive oil.

Pure olive oil. Oils labeled as Pure olive oil or Olive oil are usually a blend of refined olive oil and one of the above two categories of virgin olive oil.

Olive oil is a blend of virgin oil and refined oil, containing no more than 1.5% acidity. It commonly lacks a strong flavor.

Types of olives:

FRANTOIO
Widely used because of its high level of productivity, this olive delivers a fruity and lightly piquant oil with an intense color. Gentile is one of its synonyms.

MORAIOLO
The reason for this olive's popularity is its relatively early ripening and substantial yield. The oil of Moraiolo olives is characterized by a lightly grassy flavor with slight olive pit notes. The color can vary from greenish-yellow to yellow.

LECCINO
This olive is noted for its outstanding adaptability to rigid climates. Its ripening is uniform, which assures even harvesting, but its yield is moderate. Oil from Leccino olives is lightly fruity, tending to sweetish. The color is greenish-yellow.

CASALIVA
Olives are grown in the northern Italian regions of Friuli, Lombardy, Trentino and Veneto.The small olives, grown primarily for oil, are harvested when purplish-black. They have a good oil yield of 22 to 25%. The oil is light yet aromatic. The Casaliva tree does not need to cross-pollinate with another tree to bear fruit.

PENDOLINO
Found throughout central Italy and cover the hills in the immediate area surrounding Florence. These delicious olives ripen at mid-season and produce an exquisite olive oil that pairs perfectly with roasts and other rich dishes. Pendolino olives are known for producing a robust and fruity oil of excellent quality with aromas of fresh grass or hay and a hint of pepper aftertaste.
And now, on to the olive oils in our shops....

Allegrini WINE WAREHOUSE $19.99 retail $24.99 -
Frantoio, Maroiolo and Leccino olives. Aromatic and fruity with rosemary and mild spice character. A delicate perfume and silky taste, with a hint of almonds on its finish. The olives are harvested in November and December by hand or with rakes and brought to the mill on the same day; they are then stone ground and cold pressed, which helps the olives maintain their natural flavors.

Altesino WINE WAREHOUSE $24.99 retail $29.99 -
Frantoiano and Leccino olives. Delicate white apple and fresh cut grass character.

Argiolas WINE WAREHOUSE $19.99 retail $24.99 -
From Sardinia. Light, fruity and aromatic.

Castello di Bossi WINE WAREHOUSE $19.99 retail $24.99 -
Zesty, crisp and cucculent with generous fruit.

Di Majo Norante WINE WAREHOUSE $19.99 retail $25.99 -
Made from Gentile olives grown in Calabria. Full-bodied with herb and vegetable notes - excellent for bruschetta.

Falesco WINE WAREHOUSE $14.99 retail $18.99 -
Maraiolo, Frantoio and Leccino olives. Balanced pepper and sweet fruit. Very aromatic.

Falesco 'Marciliano' WINE WAREHOUSE $24.99 retail $29.99 -
Made from select olives from the orchard. Shows rosemary and spice character.

Poggio al Tesoro WINE WAREHOUSE $21.99 retail $26.99 -
Frantoio, Moraiolo, Leccino, and Pendolino olives. Aromatic and intenstly fruity.

Selvapiano WINE WAREHOUSE $26.99 retail $31.99 -
Frantoio and Moraiolo olives. Fruity with delicate herbal undertones. Stored in traditional large terracotta vats before bottling.

Sportoletti WINE WAREHOUSE $24.99 retail $29.99 ORGANIC -
Mostly Moraiolo olives. Intensely fruity with pepper spice. Cold-pressed within 24 hours of harvesting. 10 hectares (25 acres) of olive groves situated on the slopes of Monte Subasio, harvest of 20 tons of olives were picked from their 3000 trees for a total production of around 4000 litres of extra virgin oil. Rich with complex tones of artichoke and wild thistle and with herbal hints. In the mouth it is intense and full, characterized by green tones of meadow grass and with sweet almond in the closure.

Zenato WINE WAREHOUSE $29.99 retail $38.99 -
Casaliva and Leccino olives. Light, smooth and fresh. Made with traditional stone-crushing methods.