16 February, 2007

Democracy, existentialism and the ménage a trois:



Welcome to the delayed wine blog. I had spent last week out in Napa Valley at the Master of Wine’s pre-examination seminar. Tasting, writing and educational seminars seemed to go 24/7. Some of the week’s highlights included four days of twelve wine blind tastings. Some of the wines of note were Faiveley Coton Charlemagne, Chotard Sancerre, Zind Humbrecht Riesling Herrenweg, Riffault Sancerre Rouge, Ch Cos D’Estournel 1995, Errazuriz Syrah, Marques de Murrieta Reserva, Ch Leoville Barton 2000, Robert Mondavi Reserve Cab Sauv, Croser Brut from Oz, various German estates, a Recioto di Soave, a Vin Santo, Verdelho Madeira, Fino Especial Sherry, Dry Oloroso Sherry and plenty more. As wine tasting is a sport, this line up may make you want to get your helmet on and jump in. One caveat; you have 2 hours and 15 minutes for each flight of 12 to identify them, give reasons, describe how the wine was made, give the quality level, its ability to age, the level of acidity, its alcohol level and in some cases residual sugar levels.



Spending most of my Napa week in a room at the Villagio in Yountville, we were able to do some exam prep work on the theory section. A couple of my favorite questions of the week were; ‘Modern viticultural methods, where allowed, are making it easier to produce superior wines around the world. Are these advances making it possible to raise yields while maintaining high quality?’ Another one that they made up specifically for me as I am only sitting the viti/vini paper; ‘As a consultant winemaker, you have a winery client who has a perception that Robert Parker favors a certain style of wine. What techniques would you use to improve his Cabernet Sauvignon wine’s appeal to Mr. Parker?’ If you would like to try these at home, please limit yourself to an hour per paper. Tally ho!

We have a new blogger on the Wine Warehouse site doing a stint at Boekenhoutskloof winery in South Africa. Rebecca Robinson works in our Sarasota store and was looking to get a better perspective on the world of wine and winemaking. Boekenhoutskloof winemaker and good friend Marc Kent, is one of the real guru type winemakers in South Africa and has visiting winemakers join him for the harvest every year. Rebecca has a tremendous amount of excitement and energy for this project. For all of you who have thoughts of working a harvest someday, I know that you will find this blog enlightening.

Let’s move onto a few wines…………..As one cannot live consumed by completely cerebral adventures, the movie Talledega Nights can be a nice diversion. Jean Girard is a French character in the movie and a ‘Formula Un’ driver who is ready to take on the boys of NASCAR. Girard is asked by Ricky Bobby (Will Ferrell) what France had ever given to the world? Girard answers: ‘democracy, existentialism and the ménage a trois.’ He could have easily said: ‘Burgundy, Beaujolais and Pouilly Fume.’ Saying that these are all from the outstanding 2005 vintage would have been the trump card.


Philippe Colin is one of several Colins and Delegers who have begun producing Burgundies from the former great Colin-Deleger vineyards in and around Chassagne-Montrachet. One must thank the Napoleanic code for both the fragmentation of once great domains and the rise of corporately owned companies. Philippe Colin’s first 2005 Pinot Noir release is with his Bourgogne Rouge. This wine shows amazing black cherry and raspberry fruits and a very balanced and persistent impression on the palate. You had heard all of the hype about the 2005 Bordeaux wines….get ready for the 2005 wines from the Cote. They are every bit as impressive.

Phillipe Colin Bourgogne Rouge 2005, Retail $21.99 Warehouse $17.99



Domaine Chanrion in the Cote de Brouilly is a ten acre farm run by Nicole Chanrion. This wine made from the Gamay grape from vines averaging over fourty years of age. It is fermented in temperature controlled vats and aged in large oak foudres before Nicole bottles it without filtration. This wine sings of raspberry and banana in the nose with deeply textured crushed red fruits on the palate. This wine is both expressive in the mouth and light on its feet. A wine from a top Beaujolais producer in a top vintage like 2005 is not unlike a good quality Pinot Noir in style.

Domaine Chanrion Cote de Brouilly 2005, Retail $17.99 Warehouse $13.99



Regis Minet farms a twenty acre plot of twenty five year old Sauvignon Blanc vines on the argilo-calcareous soils of Pouilly Fume. These chalky soils contribute to the pinpoint precision that Minet’s Pouilly Fume achieves in both its bouquet and palate attack. Fermented by natural yeasts in temperature controlled stainless steel vats, the wine does not go through malo-lactic conversion in order to highlight its primary fruit aromas and flavors.

Very racy, with nervy lemon zest, honeysuckle, straw and mineral notes that run through a crisp, mouthwatering finish. Delicious. 1,700 cases made. SMART BUY 90 pts Wine Spectator

Regis Minet Pouilly Fume Vieilles Vignes 2005, Retail $19.99 Warehouse $16.99

Frenchy can drive!