26 January, 2007

Don’t fear the Spanish Acquisition:

In Spain, traditional wine regions remain the standard-bearer for the wines of the country. Your local Wine Warehouse has just received a shipment of Spanish wines from the Eric Solomon portfolio from all over Spain. Many of our favorites are back. Let's take a look at some wines from the regions of Galicia, Priorat and Rioja.

Located in Galicia, the region of Rias-Baixas is heavily influenced by the Atlantic ocean, with high levels of rainfall and relative humidity. Temperatures are moderate and the region is extremely fertile, with miles and miles of green rolling hills. The vineyards are planted on these gently rolling hills on dark, humid soil which sits over granitic, and in some places, schist soils.

It wasn’t until the last 20 years that progressive thinking winemakers of the region began to think that Rias-Baixas deserved it own D.O. Their change in thinking arose primarily from their belief that the Albarino varietal, grown on these specific soils in Northwestern Spain, produced an amazingly delicious wine that could not be duplicated in other parts of the country. The varietal is characterized by low yields, difficulty of cultivation, and delicate berries. Although other varietals are grown in the zone, a wine must be produced from 100% Albarino to receive the Rias-Baixas D.O.

Burgans is produced by Martin Codax. This is a pure expression of Albarino as it seees no wood aging. A good Albarino can resemble the crisp aspects of Pinot Grigio with the floral characters of Viognier. This wine is always the best value Albarino for the vintage.

'Musky aromas of ginger, flint and flowers. Quite dry and focused, with intense flavors of pineapple, lemon, ginger and minerals. Lovely balancing limey acids frame and extend the fruit. Excellent value in Albarino.' Wine Advocate 88pts

Burgans Albarino 2005, Retail $11.99 Warehouse $8.99



Pazo de Senorans is owned by Marisol Bueno, one of the pioneers of this young appellation. Through her work, the DO was created in 1988, quality thresholds were introduced, and the region began to receive wider worldwide recognition. Today, the property is one of the few remaining family owned estates, and remains quite small in order to maintain a rigorous level of quality.

Low yielding (25-30 hectoliters per hectare or less than 2 tons/acre) old vines planted in the northern sub-zone of the Salnes appellation. This wine has an amazing texture with flavors of ripe peaches, apricots and honeysuckle balanced by fresh acidity, great length and lemony minerality.


'Bright gold. Explosively aromatic aromas of bright peach and apricot, complicated by honey, chalk and a rich leesy quality. Broad and intensely flavored, with impressive concentration and focus to the peach flavor. Finishes with excellent length. This saw no wood.' International Wine Cellar 91pts.




‘Marisol Bueno is the president of the RĂ­­as Baixas appellation and the owner of a beautiful estate that is the region's undisputed quality leader.’ Top Spanish wine writer Victor de la Serna

Pazo de Senorans Albarino 2005, Retail $19.99 Warehouse $15.99


One of the most magical settings in Spain, the Priorat lies in the rugged hills of Northeastern Spain in Spanish Catalonia, not far from Barcelona. Although the region has been producing grapes for centuries (the Romans settled on the Tarragona coast more than 2,000 years ago), it did not gain international fame as a world-class winemaking region until the 1990’s. It is now considered one of the best terroirs in the world for the production of wines based around Grenache (Garnacha) and Carignan. The very talented Jordi Vidal is the driving force behind one of the most unique properties in the Priorat region. Made from 100+ year old vines of white Grenache, it exhibits a remote similarity to a top-flight white Chateauneuf du Pape. .

The terroir of the Priorat should be looked at in a Burgundian context, with each of the historical villages having slightly different soils producing different styles of wines. However, the one common theme that draws them all together is the presence of schiste (licorella in Catalan) which helps form these craggy hillsides. The vines are planted on slopes and are often steeply terraced, making for difficult work and extremely low yields. The climate is Mediterranean and the summers are quite warm. Historically, the dry white wines of the Priorat have been heavily oxidized with often high alcohol levels and a monolithic structure. Here Jordi relies on extremely low yields and optimal harvesting times to keep good acidity in the wines before allowing them to fermet with natural yeasts in stainless steel tanks. The key to the white is allowing the white Grenache to rest on its fine lees during the cold winter, a technique that helps to impart a lovely creaminess to the wine.


'Pale gold. Intensely minerally aromas of pear skin and white peach. Tangy and energetic on the palate, the refreshingly bitter pear and apple flavors nicely firmed by juicy acidity. Gains weight and fleshes out on the finish, with the peach note returning. Intriguing stuff.' International Wine Cellar 89pts

Scala dei ‘Les Brugueres’ 2005, Retail $24.99 Warehouse $19.99


Perhaps the most celebrated of Spain’s many wine regions, are the wines of Rioja. Located north of Madrid in the North of Spain, Rioja has been producing wine for centuries. Winemaking standards have greatly increased thanks for a governing body which has imposed strict quality standards on wineries. However, many wineries are shirking the “old” system of classification for a more progressive system that favors earlier release of wines.

'Within Spain, Rioja has for so long been respected as the quality wine region that I think it has led to dangerous complacency - particularly now that so many exciting wines are emerging from elsewhere in Spain. The most impressive rioja producers, many of them relatively small are new outfits such as Allende, Roda and Artadi, tend to be those who are able to grow their own.' Jancis Robinson, M.W.

The Artadi estate was created in 1985 by visionary winemaker, Juan Carlos Lopez de la Calle. His objective was to seek and nurture the concept that Tempranillo, when cultivated at high altitude, low-cropped, and from old vines, produces extraordinarily rich and profound wines. Of the 75 hectares on the estate, about 25 are owned by other farmers and are controlled by Artadi. The team from the estate does the work during the summer and fall in the vineyards and harvests these plots, like the rest of the property, by hand. A very strict vineyard and winery triage is performed. Most of the wines are fermented in stainless steel tanks, with the reserve wines being fermented in large wood vats. Ageing is carried out according to the vintage, the cuvee, and the age of the vines. Artadi is about purity of extracted fruit with almost Burgundian textures. In fact, critics have often compared these wines to the top wines of Chambolle-Musigny and other top appellations of Burgundy. The key to this level of elegance comes from the cold wines of the Pyrennees which blow from the north. This coupled with moderate temperatures tend to make these wines a study in elegance and power.


Orobio is a terrific new project from Artadi is a fresh, fruity wine with a smokey, bacon fat, leathery backdrop to the spicy, very concentrated fruit. Delicious! Dark coloured with an enticing floral bouquet of spices and red berries. Lovely and generous on the palate with no hard edges and a long smooth finish.


Artadi ‘Orobio’ Rioja Tempranillo 2004, Retail $12.99 Warehouse $9.99


Ruby-red. Bright, perfumed nose offers sexy raspberry, strawberry and cherry liqueur aromas accented by subtle notes of fresh rose and exotic spices. Lively and brisk, the with tangy acidity providing focus and cut to the pure red fruit flavors. Really delicious wine, with expansive, sweet raspberry and cherry flavors on the zesty, long finish. ST91

Artadi ‘Vinas de Gain’ Rioja 2004, Retail $24.99 Warehouse $19.99


Let me hit you with some knowledge: 'Tempranillo’s name hints at its viticultural characteristics, temprano being Spanish for early. Tempranillo certainly buds relatively early, generally earlier in Rioja than most red grapes in Bordeaux, but has a longer growing season. The vintage in Rioja can take place well into October, weeks after the picking has stopped in Bordeaux. Spring frost damage to these early buds can be severe in northern Spain. Tempranillo's skins are not especially thick, so the wine is not marked by particularly deep colour, and rot can be a problem, especially in the tight bunches of the newer clones (although compared to most internationally known grape varieties there are not that many clones of Tempranillo available).' Oxford Encyclopedia of Wine.


Do yourself a favor and look at our ‘Wine News’ on the www.winewarehouses.com website for the other Eric Solomon Spanish selections that arrived this week. Next week we will look at Spain’s emerging regions. So it is now time to sit back in your ‘comfy chair’ with a glass of wine and enjoy your Spanish acquisition.