Wine Warehouse's Wine Blog: 11/19/06

You may have observed the stacks of bubbly being featured in our stores. It’s that time of year.

Couldn’t help but notice the branding in the latest James Bond movie as James orders Champagne from room service. Bollinger was ordered, but surprise………….it was the Grand Annee. When this many bucks were being spent on marketing to place this product in the movie, the marketers had to make sure that there is enough of the product available for consumers and RD is not produced in sufficient quantities to fit the bill. I just wonder which vintage of Château L’Angelus James consumed with his dinner after celebrating his winnings at the card table? Sean Connery would have certainly mentioned the Château and the vintage. The Grand Annee was ordered without a vintage as well. Sean is still the #1 Bond for wine consumers. Unfortunately for Sean Connery, he must concede the #1 ranking to Daniel Craig in the ‘six-pack abs’ department.

So why am I writing about marketing and branding and not the wines themselves? It’s because the Champenois are some of the most sophisticated and ruthless marketers in the world. Just try and launch a product, any product with the word Champagne in the moniker. Be prepared to be served papers and to be heading to court. The Champenois protect their region’s name fiercely, and have done so to great success. In the EU, sparkling producers can no longer state ‘Methode Champenois’ on their labels. The new term for making sparkling wine in the EU in Champagne method is now ‘Methode Traditionelle.’ Who’s to argue with the protectionist ways of the Champenois when Champagne is most likely the world's most famous wine, and one that is most associated with a celebration? Champagne is one of the few categories in French wine to actually show growth around the world. The top Champagne houses put 95% of their profits back into marketing. What other wine category do you know of where diners can be recognized for their choice across a dining room by the shape of the bottle or the color of a label? Although for me, it also makes it easy to spot the pretenders. If I spot someone drinking from an orange/yellow label from across the room, they have just been labeled as a ‘victim of marketing.’ While many French grape farmers and winemakers are protesting their government’s lack of support, the Champenois biggest problem is trying to figure out whether they will be buying a blue or silver Mercedes this year. Ok, well maybe this is a bit of an exaggeration, but have you seen the direction Champagne prices have gone since the millennium push? As it is Champagne season, we’d better get to the wines.

Champagne is the most northerly wine region in France. Champagne is usually made from a blend of grapes sourced from different vineyards across this large region, yet at the Wine Warehouse we have a nice selection of ‘grower’ Champagnes being produced from a specific place. The grape varieties used in Champagne are Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. Approximately three quarters of all Champagne sold is designated as 'non-vintage': this is a blend of vintages (predominantly the most recent) and can vary widely in quality depending on the producer. Champagne from a single vintage is designated 'vintage', and is produced in lower quantities and only in the better years, so it is usually much higher quality. Other styles to look out for on the label include Blanc de Blancs (made from Chardonnay only) and Blanc de Noirs (made only from the red grapes Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier).

Let me hit you with some knowledge: Developed in the Champagne region, the traditional method of making sparkling wine consists of blending various still wines to make a cuvee representative of the house’s style. After the wines are blended, a bottling dosage and special yeasts are added, and the cuvée is immediately bottled and corked. The yeast and sugar in the dosage create a secondary fermentation in the bottle, producing additional alcohol and carbon dioxide gas, which gives the wine its effervescence. Sediment produced during the

second fermentation is removed through riddling (or rémuage), a process which the bottles are positioned downward at a 45° angle in specially built racks called pupitres. Every 3 or 4 days, a trained workman gives the bottles a shake and a slight turn, gradually increases the angle of tilt, and drops the bottle back in the rack with a slight whack. In 6 to 8 weeks, all the bottles are positioned straight downward and the sediment has collected in

the neck. Although riddling was once done entirely by hand, today many wineries employ ‘gyro-palettes’ that dramatically shorten this lengthy procedure. After the riddling process is complete, the disgorging (or dégorgement) takes place. Disgorging is where the sediment is removed from the bottle. Just before final bottling, a ‘shipping dosage’ (dosage d'expedition) containing sugar and some of the same cuvée is added. The percentage of sugar determines the degree of the wine's sweetness.

Bollinger has been awarded the Royal Warrant by seven British monarchs since 1884, so Bond pledged his loyalty to Bollinger. In 1829, Champagne Bollinger introduced an instantly recognizable, dry, toasty style that connoisseurs around the globe are said to have coveted ever since. Six generations of the Bollinger family have maintained the house style, and Bollinger is rare in that it is one of the few Grande Marque houses to be owned, controlled and managed by the same family since it was founded.

With 399 acres of vineyards situated in the best of the Grands Crus and Premiers Crus villages, Bollinger relies on its own estate for nearly two-thirds of its grape requirements, the majority being Pinot Noir which gives its Champagne its distinctive roundness and elegance. Bollinger is one of a select few houses that can control the quality of its grape supply. This is why Bollinger can maintain its character and integrity.

Bollinger Special Cuvée NV, Champagne is a blend of 60% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay and 15% Pinot Meunier. Special Cuvée is meant to be the purest expression of Champagne Bollinger's style. Bollinger’s winemaker is expected to year after year, create a blend that is consistent both in style and quality. This NV Champagne has tremendous depth and balance, with rich and toasty aromas and flavors. This wine is fermented in both wooden casks and stainless steel. The top cuvees from Bollinger are fermented in wood only. Previous director of Bollinger, Christian Bizot was said to refuse to sit in the same church pew with a producer who does not ferment their wines in wood.

Bollinger Special Cuvee Brut, Retail $49.99 Warehouse $34.99

Louis Roederer was founded in 1827. Initially, Roederer’s biggest customers were the Russians, and with the 1917 revolutionaries not being Champagne socialists, Roederer lost 80% of their market overnight. Cristal itself was commissioned in Tsar Alexander II, who wanted his wine in clear glass: Cristal comes in similar clear, puntless bottles to this day. The celebrated Cristal, has recently become chic with the likes of professional athletes and the hip-hop crowd. Although Cristal may now be ultra-trendy, there’s substance behind the style. Roederer also does a commendable job with its other wines. Much of the secret to this success, is Roederer predominantly using grapes from their own vineyards. Their 450 acres of vineyards make up nearly 80% of their production. This is why Bollinger and Roederer stand out from many of their competitors.

Louis Roederer Cristal 1999, Retail $219.99 Warehouse $199.99
Louis Roederer Champagne Brut 1999, Retail $69.99 Warehouse $49.99
Louis Roederer Champagne Brut Premiere NV, Retail $44.99 Warehouse $26.99

Roederer Estate is the California winery owned by Champagne Louis Roederer. Roederer Estate is located in the cool Anderson Valley of Mendicino. As in France, the California-Roederer's winemaking style is based on two elements: complete ownership of its vineyards and the addition of oak-aged reserve wines to each year's blend or cuvée. All the grapes for Roederer Estate’s wines are grown on the Estate. Oak-aged wines from the Estate's reserve cellars are added to the blend, creating a multi-vintage cuvée in the traditional Roederer style. Only the cuvée (first pressing of 120 gallons/ton) is used; no premiere or deuxieme taille. The fermentation takes place in high-grade stainless steel tanks at 65 degrees Fahrenheit. None to minimal malolactic fermentation is used in order to ensure that the wines age well and retain the fresh, somewhat austere style that is one of the characteristics of Roederer wines. Roederer Estate Brut is produced from 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir.

Roederer Estate Brut NV, Retail $21.99 Warehouse $15.95

The concept of Roederer Estate’s vintage L’Ermitage is the same one that is used in Champagne: Only the best of the vintage is selected. These are the most exceptional wines that look to create a unique blend that will allow for longer aging, a wine with more complexity, elegance and finesse. The blending team includes winemakers from Champagne Louis Roederer in France and Roederer Estate in California in order to insure that they maintain the traditional Roederer house style. The wine for the dosage added to the 2000 L’ERMITAGE was 2000 wine liquor aged for 5 years in a French oak casks. Try this wine blind. It blows away many French Champagnes.

Roederer Estate L’Ermitage 2000, Retail $39.99 Warehouse $29.99

Founded in 1812, Laurent-Perrier has been avant-garde in creating unique and elegant champagnes for nearly two hundred years. The house was acquired by the Nonancourt family in 1939 and for over 65 years the Nonancourts have dedicated themselves to innovating and perfecting Laurent-Perrier Champagne.

Chardonnay is the dominant grape variety in Laurent Perrier Brut NV. Its proportion is unusually high for a non-vintage Champagne blend, being double the average. Wines from more than 55 crus make up the blend. 10% to 20% of the blend consists of reserve wines which adds complexity and maintains the house style. Because of its balance and natural freshness, Brut L-P only receives a light dosage. Its ideal aging period is about three years. It’s a pity that Champagne houses do not give a best before date on their non-vintage cuvees. Where can we see the date for the third year? This is an incredible value.

Laurent Perrier Champagne Brut NV, Retail $31.99 Warehouse $25.99

Care to try a Champagne without the dosage? Produced from nearly equal parts of chardonnay and pinot noir, LP Ultra Brut is made exclusively with grapes from very ripe harvests. Selection is rigorous to ensure that only grapes with both high sugar levels and low acidity are used. This is essential with no dosage being added. The second fermentation on yeast lasts at least four years.

Laurent Perrier Champagne Ultra Brut, Retail $39.99 Warehouse $34.99

Laurent Perrier Rose is made with grapes sourced from LP’s most prestigious vineyards. There is a short maceration period during which Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes are blended together to obtain the Champagne's delicate color, unique flavors and complex aromas. The second fermentation on the yeasts lasts between five and ten years, depending on the characteristics of the vintage. Its color is a deep salmon pink and its fine bead exhales zesty orange peel and preserved berry aromas. It offers a lingering finish that is topped off by a hint of ripe red fruit yet with a taut structure.

Laurent Perrier Champagne Rose, Retail $59.99 Warehouse $ 49.99

Laurent Perrier's Tete de Cuvee is Grand Siecle. This is a top wine where you do not have dip into your home equity line to enjoy it.

Laurent Perrier Champagne Grand Siecle, Retail $79.99 Warehouse $59.99

Some other Champagnes and sparkling wines to look out for:

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