07 June, 2007

Twenty years after the year of the sun; perfection in Pinot Noir?

I can recall driving through Burgundy on our delayed honeymoon in 1985. We were married in March but decided that the month of September would be more interesting to tour the Mosel, Burgundy and Champagne. Our plans were to get to wine country as the grapes were almost ripe and producers would have time to talk with us. Wrong! 1985 was a warm year and picking was beginning two weeks ahead of schedule. It was nearly 90 degrees. Grapes were ripening so fast that it was stretching the cellar capacity of many small growers in Burgundy. They had to get the grapes in before they desiccated. Grapes were not the only thing desiccating in 1985; young Americans without air conditioning on their honeymoons were desiccating in their cramped rooms with psychedelic wallpaper patterns and toilets down the hall.
What does the 1985 vintage have to do with the current releasing vintage in Burgundy? The weather patterns of 1985 to 2005 were quite similar. The difference between the vintages are that now vignerons are getting accustomed to warm Septembers and are better prepared for the grapes at this early stage. This has some Burgundy producers feeling that this is the finest vintage in nearly forty years. The 2005 vintage is like many recent summers in Burgundy; warmer and drier than in the past. Although 2005 was dry, it was not too hot. Overall, the warmth and dryness led to perfect maturation in the finer vineyards. 2005 was a long growing season where September was perfect for Pinot Noir. The grapes had very clean and sturdy skins, which possessed ripe tannins that are intense and well balanced. It is a phenomenal vintage and one where any lover of classic Pinot Noir will want to get their hands on. The 05 reds will be in the WW stores early next week. 2005 Red Burgs are in limited availability and all selections may not be available at every WW location.


‘The 2005 vintage for red and white Burgundy has everything you could want: ripe fruit, fresh acidity, well-integrated tannins and great balance. Even at this young stage, many of the wines reveal gorgeous fruit flavors and terroir.’ Bruce Sanderson, ‘The Wine Spectator.’

We have been buying Aubert de Villaine’s white wines for years. De Villaine’s Bourgogne Aligote and Rully are perennial favorites at The Wine Warehouse. At a dinner nearly two years ago we asked about possibly receiving an allocation of De Villaine reds. Voila! Below you will find several ripe and delicious reds that have just arrived this week. Monsieur De Villaine knows a thing or two about classic Pinot Noir as his day job is as the proprietor of Domaine de la Romanee Conti.

A&P De Villaine Bourgogne Rouge La Digoine 05 (organic), Retail $34.99 Warehouse $29.99

A&P De Villaine Bourgogne Rouge La Fortune 05 (organic), Retail $29.99 Warehouse $24.99

A&P De Villaine Mercurey Rouge Les Montots 05, Retail $39.99 Warehouse $34.99

Domaine Amiot Bourgogne Pinot Noir is a ripe and silky wine with classic Pinot Noir character.
Domaine Amiot Bourgogne Pinot Noir 05, Retail $21.99 Warehouse $18.99

In France, wine domaines are often divided up amongst the descendants of the current proprietor as it is prescribed in the Napoleanic Code. Domaine Colin Deleger is now split between Bruno Colin and Phillipe Colin. Both are producing very flashy wines. Many people are unaware that Chassagne Montrachet is 50% planted to Pinot Noir. We often only see the Chardonnay version on most wine lists in America.

Bruno Colin Bourgogne Pinot Noir 05, Retail $21.99 Warehouse $18.99

Philippe Colin Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chênes Rouge 05, Retail $34.99 Warehouse $29.99

Philippe Colin Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chênes Rouge 05 375ml, Retail $18.99 Warehouse $14.99

Philippe Colin Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot Rouge 1er Cru 05, Retail $39.99 Warehouse $34.99

Philippe Colin Maranges Fussière Rouge 1er Cru 05, Retail $34.99 Warehouse $29.99

Philippe Colin Santenay Rouge 05, Retail $29.99 Warehouse $26.99

Philippe Colin Santenay Gravières Rouge 1er Cru 05, Retail $39.99 Warehouse $34.99

There will be more fabulous 2005’s on their way. Please stay tuned to a blog near you….