18 May, 2007

Spain is Frontier-land too…



Spanish wines are and continue to be ‘en fuego.’ As evidence of the ‘hotness’ of the category, it seems like a new Spanish importer makes a call to us every week. There is plenty of wine in Spain and now plenty of importers in the US pushing the wines. The positive aspect of all this attention is the rediscovery of Spain’s indigenous grape varietals. Grapes such as Mencia and Godello grown in Bierzo, Verdejo in Rueda, Albarino in Rias Baixas and Prieto Picudo in Tierras de Leon are now available and on the shelves in your local Wine Warehouse store. The sign posted as I leave my local yoga studio is ‘Simplify.’ This is a fantastic concept when dealing with modern life but one that I tend to stray from when it comes to the world of wine. Exploring new producers and varieties is what keeps the world of wine fresh and interesting even if there is a degree of complexity added.

One Spanish importer who caught our eye is Frontier Wine Imports. This company was founded by Tom George seventeen years ago and has a fantastic selection of wines from around Spain. Tom and his right-hand-man Xabier are focused on the unique character, quality and value that can be unearthed in Spain by a discerning eye. You can meet Xabier in our Jacksonville Hendricks Avenue store this Tuesday, in Palmetto on Wednesday and in Winter Park on Thursday. He’ll be pouring a nice selection of the Frontier portfolio. Now, on to the wines…

Laxas Albarino. Rias Baixas is the home of some of Spain's most expressive white wines. Located directly north of Portugal, the Albariño vines are grown in a high ‘pergola’ trellis to prevent direct contact with the humid tall grass and the subsequent risk of diseases. Growers have to compensate for the Galicia region having the highest rainfall in Spain coupled with sparse amounts of sunlight. Albarino can have the freshness of a crisp Sauvignon Blanc with the complexity and flavors of a nice Viognier.

The Laxas Albarino exhibits hints of honeysuckle, orange rind, and apricots that can often confuse one when blind tasting. These descriptors are very similar to those found in Viognier based wines such as Condrieu. Texturally the wine is medium-bodied, with fresh acidity, and abundant fruit - a perfect wine for summer weather.

Laxas Albarino 2006, Retail $17.99 Warehouse $11.99

Abad dom Bueno Godello. Situated between rainy Galicia and sunny Castile, Bierzo has a humid and mild climate, influenced by the Atlantic with abundant sunshine. The region's vineyards lie at 400 to 800 meters high, sheltered by the Montes de Leon and the Cordillera Cantábrica. The specialty of Bierzo's slopes and terraces is the Mencía grape which yields fruity reds with a spicy character. On the same slopes one can find the Godello grape, which can produce delicious fresh wines with fresh citrus and mineral notes.

The Abad dom Bueno Godello has fresh tropical fruit character with delicately perfumed aromas. Texturally the wine carries the weight of a nice, medium bodied, un-wooded Chardonnay. This wine has absolutely fresh and pure primary fruit characteristics.

Abad dom Bueno ‘Godello’ 2006, Retail $13.99 Warehouse $9.99

Pardevalles Gamonal. Vinos de Leon is a traditional wine making region that is seeing its rebirth with new winemaking technology and advances in viticulture which allow for the indigenous Prieto Picudo grape to be grown to its full potential. The Prieto Picudo vine is know as a Variedad Rastrera, due to the fact that if left on its own, it will grow its branches towards the soil. This situation leaves the grapes to mature while laying literally on the sandy-clay soils. Currently they are implementing trellis systems to optimally ripen the grape. Bodegas Pardevalles has the Prieto Picudo’s oldest existing trellised vineyards in the world.

The Pardevalles winery, located in the new D.O. of Tierras de Leon (created in 2005), works exclusively with the indigenous Prieto Picudo grape. The 2005 Gamonal, which was aged for 6 months in a mixture of new and used French and American oak, is purple-colored with an excellent nose of vanilla, blueberry and blackberry. This is followed by a medium to full-bodied, elegant wine with ripe, sweet fruit and enough structure for 2-3 years of further evolution. 90 points Wine Advocate.

Pardavalles Gamonal 2005, Retail $17.99 Warehouse $13.99



Grand Viu and Menguante. Wine has been made in the Cariñena region since the Roman Empire. The vineyards lie at the foothills of the Iberico mountain range between 500 and 800 meters above sea level. The region has a continental climate with extreme diurnal variations, and soils consisting of limestone, chalk, and slate with alluvial deposits. The region of Cariñena predominantly grows the Garnacha grape varietal with paradoxically the Cariñena (Carignan) grape variety that originated here accounting for less than 10 percent of the region's production. The wines from the Pablo family received many kudos in the Wine Advocate as you will see from the reviews below.

The 2002 Gran Viu Garnacha del Terreno is an outstanding effort in a difficult vintage. Made from 100% Garnacha aged 22 months in one-year-old French oak and bottled unfiltered, this full-bodied, showy, purple-colored wine offers fragrant aromas of kirsch, vanilla bean, and blueberry. This is followed by intense, layered cherry and blueberry fruit nicely concealing the moderate but silky tannins. The finish is long and pure. Kudos to the Pablo family! 91 points Wine Advocate.
Grand Viu Garnacha del Terreno 2002, Retail $47.99 Warehouse $34.99

A blend of Garnacha, Cabernet Sauvignon, Tempranillo, and Syrah. It spent 12 months in used French and American oak and was bottled unfiltered. Purple in color and already emitting complex aromatics after 5 years in bottle, there are expressive scents of spice box, forest floor, earth, meat, and blue fruits. Medium to full-bodied, the wine has layers of ripe, concentrated fruit, supple tannins, and superb balance straight through to the 45-second finish. Drink this superb effort over the next decade. It is also an excellent value. Kudos to the Pablo family! 92 points Wine Advocate.

Grand Viu Seleccion 2001, Retail $27.99 Warehouse $21.99
Vinedos y Bodegas Pablo is a family-owned estate, founded in 1760, emphasizing the use of indigenous varietals and biodynamic farming. This is an impressive portfolio from top to bottom. For starters is the unoaked 2005 Menguante Garnacha produced from 80-year-old vines. Purple in color, it exhibits a fragrant nose of kirsch and blueberry. Medium-bodied, this wine is packed with ripe fruit and layers of flavor all the way through to the finish. This awesome value can be likened to a Cotes du Rhone on steroids. Kudos to the Pablo family! 90 points Wine Advocate.

Menguante Garnacha 2005, Retail $8.99 Warehouse $6.99

Lorca Monastrell. With a desert-like climate and at an altitude of 400 to 800 meters high, Bullas is known for its arid conditions and diurnal temperature swings. These are the ideal conditions for the Monastrell grape. Monastrell is the same grape as Mataro and Mourvedre. Modern winemaking methods are now employed here such as precision picking times, shorter and newer oaking regimes and temperature control in the cellar. Bullas has the highest elevation of any Monastrell based region which leads to higher acidity and more elegance in the grapes. The Bullas region is on the cutting edge of Monstrell production.

The Lorca Monastrell is dark ruby in color with a fruity nose of raspberry and cherry with lively bright and chewy fruit. It is a very tasty wine for every day drinking.

Lorca Monastrell 2006, Retail $9.99 Warehouse $7.99

The Lorca Monastrell Rose is extremely fresh, has bright strawberry fruit characteristics yet finishes dry with refreshing acidity. BBQ anyone?

Lorca Monastrell Rose 2006, Retail $9.99 Warehouse $7.99

The modern Cubo Tempranillo is grown in the land of Don Quixote; La Mancha. La Mancha is the largest denomination of origin in the world with 180,000 hectares (2.48 acres/ha) under vine. The region is spread across an immense plateau with average height of 700 meters above sea level. La Mancha has an extreme continental climate which forces vintners to space the vines 2.5 meters apart to compensate for the limited moisture during the growing season. Despite La Mancha's reputation for inexpensive rustic wines, the best bodegas have shown that by using modern wine-making techniques and premium varieties, that they can also produce some very fine wines.

Cubo Tempranillo 2006, Retail $8.99 Warehouse $6.99

Pedro Romero Sherries. These extremely value-priced sherries originate from the village of Sanlucar de Barrameda, which is known to produce higher acid sherries than those from the more famous town of Jerez. There are two basic style of sherry, Fino and Oloroso, with all of the others being offshoots of these. The principal difference between the Dry and Medium Dry Amontillado (Amontillado is a lightly oxidized Fino style) is that latter has had 10% Pedro Ximinez added as a sweetening agent. The principal difference between the Dry Oloroso, the Medium Dry Oloroso, and the Cream (an Oloroso style) is that latter two have had 20% and 40% Pedro Ximinez added to the base Oloroso respectively. The drier styles are often served with meals or as aperitifs, with the sweeter styles (Moscatel and Pedro Ximinez) being served at the end of meals with dessert.

‘The Pedro Romero Sherries are well made at a great price that merits serious consumer interest.’ The Wine Advocate

Manzanilla Aurora
Fino and Manzanilla are dry wines produced from a maturing process without oxygen under permanent Flor yeast that develops in the barrel. The wine spends approximately 9 years in a ‘criadera’ aging process to reach its optimum maturity and complexity. Only 15% alcohol.


The light to medium-bodied, dry, fresh, aromatic Manzanilla Aurora is a terrific example of a crisp yet flavorful dry sherry that would work well with Japanese sushi or Spain’s delicious black ham. 90 points Wine Advocate.

Pedro Romero Manzanilla ‘Aurora’ 500ml, Retail $10.99 Warehouse $7.99

The Fino Pale Dry is fresh, lively, and intensely flavored. 88 points Wine Advocate

Pedro Romero Fino, Retail $10.99 Warehouse $7.99

Other Pedro Romero sherries:

Dry Oloroso 91 points Wine Advocate

Pedro Romero Dry Oloroso, Retail $10.99 Warehouse $7.99

The Amontillado Dry Rich, which is an oxidized style of Fino, exhibits an amber color along with plenty of roasted nut and citrus characteristics. 90 points Wine Advocate.

Pedro Romero Dry Rich Amontillado, Retail $10.99 Warehouse $7.99

Pedro Romero Cream 89 points Wine Advocate

Pedro Romero Cream Sherry, Retail $10.99 Warehouse $7.99

This Moscatel is a medium amber-tinged, exotic sherry revealing hints of marmalade, tropical fruits, and a splash of maple syrup. 91 points Wine Advocate

Pedro Romero Moscatel, Retail $10.99 Warehouse $8.99

Pedro Ximenez 91 points Wine Advocate

Pedro Romero Pedro Ximenez, Retail $24.99 Warehouse $19.99


Why not finish this trip to Spain with a little fizz? Originating from the largest single estate in Penedes are the wines from the Sumarroca family. Penedes is not only the most prominent Cava area, but is also the base for such serious red wines as Torres Grand Coronas. This Cava is fashioned from the tradition varieties of Parellada 42%, Xarel lo 24%, Macabeo 27% with the non-traditional Chardonnay 7% added.
Aged for two years on its yeast lees, this fresh, light-bodied and creamy non-vintage Brut Reserva offers hints of peaches as well as small pinpoint bubbles.

Sumarroca Brut Cava nv, Retail $13.99 Warehouse $9.99
It’s worth doing your own ‘Lewis and Clark’ on the Spanish ‘Frontier.’