Chateauneuf-du-Pape is the heart and soul of the southern Rhone valley. The predominantly limestone based soils have good water holding capacity. With 2003-2005 being drought years in the southern Rhone, these soils enabled the dry-farmed vines to combat the ravages of the drought. The vines are trained close to the ground enabling the vines to take in the warmth of the soil at night and protects them from the mistral winds. ‘Le Mistral’ can be brutal, originating in the North Sea and coming directly from the north, these winds can pack a punch of up to 60mph. This wind can be cleansing to the vines as mildews and fungi have a hard time settling in, thus many of the southern Rhone producers are able to use less herbicides and fungicides with many farming organically. Le Mistral can be so ferocious that most buildings have no windows on their northern side, which is a handy tip for the occasionally lost wine tourist who is trying to figure out which direction that they are traveling.
Chateauneuf-du-Pape has 13 authorized grape varieties that can be utilized in its production, 8 of them red and 5 of them white. The most important red variety is Grenache Noir for its potency, with raspberry and cracked pepper characters. Syrah is known for its meaty and dark fruit characters with structure and tannins. Mourvedre’s character is meaty, spicy and saddle-leather. Mourvedre is grown in the warmest spots as it is a Mediterranean variety that is used to the heat. The other red varieties are Cinsaut, Muscardin, Vaccarese, Picpoul, Terret Noir and Counoise. Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Bourbelenc and Picardin are the permitted white varieties. The Perrin’s Chateau de Beacastel uses all 13 varieties in its red by using a small percentage of the white varieties to co-ferment with the red. The Bruniers at Vieux Telegraphe also co-ferment a small amount of white varieties into their CDP red. Co-fermentation experiments have shown that the co-fermented reds can actually turn out darker due to the chemical reaction between the red and white grapes. This process is also known in Hermitage with Syrah and Marsanne, in Cote Rotie with Syrah and Viognier, and is emerging as a trend in the new world with Shiraz/Viognier.Chateauneuf-du-Pape had been traditionally undervalued and virtually ignored in the US until the late 1980’s when The Wine Advocate began giving CDP’s top producers some very high praise and its author Robert Parker wrote a book on the Rhone. The Parker press coupled with The Wine Spectator giving the 1989 Chateau de Beaucastel a 97 point rating and its #1 wine of the year for the 1989 release, and all of a sudden Chateauneuf-du-Pape was no longer a secret. We are fortunate as Rhone lovers to have a string of three fantastic vintages in 2003-2005 to both enjoy now, and anticipate their release. 2003 was a very hot and dry vintage that produced powerful and ripe red wines that will need a bit of time to sort out their rugged tannins. The best of these wines are superb. 2004 had small crop of balanced and very pure wines. The vintage was not as hot as 2003 and had more consistency. 2005 will be eagerly awaited as it was another drought year, yet had well timed rains and Mistral influence. 2005 will have great concentration, purity and structure.
Speaking of Wine Spectator’s ‘Top 100’ wines, we still have a small amount remaining of the Brunier family’s 2003 Vieux Telegraphe CDP red. A 93 pointer in The Wine Spectator that made the 2005 WS ‘Top 100’ and 92 pointer in
Parker with notes of ‘deep ruby with some purple nuances, this wine is medium to full-bodied and reveals notes of licorice, pepper, Asian spices, black cherry, raspberry and currant, as well as a relatively big, sweet palate impression.’ This is comprised of 60% Grenache Noir, 15% Mourvedre, 15% Syrah, 5% Cinsaut, and 5% mix of several other authorized red and white varieties. Retail $54.99/WAREHOUSE $34.99
The Brunier’s also produce some other fantastic wines from in and around the southern Rhone Valley, such as:
Telegram Chateauneuf-du-Pape Rouge 2004 Retail $29.99/WAREHOUSE $24.99
Pallieres Gigondas Rouge 2001 Retail $25.99/WAREHOUSE $19.99
Domaine de Pallieres is an estate in the second most prestigious appellation within the southern Rhone Valley, Gigondas. This historic estate was purchased by the Bruniers in partnership with their American importer, Kermit Lynch. The Domaine consists of 62 planted acres of vines that average more than 50 years of age. Pallieres produces on average only about 6,000 cases per year. The wine is produced from 80% Grenache Noir, 10% Syrah, 5% Mourvedre, and 5% Cinsaut. Robert Parker had this to say about the 2001; ‘It represents the finest wine proprietors Kermit Lynch and Daniel Brunier have produced at the Domaine. A deep ruby/purple tinged color is followed by gorgeous aromatics of sweet and sour cherries, spice box, crushed stones, flowers, Provencal herbs, and loamy soil scents. 90 points’ Doesn’t that review just make you want to go out and cook something in your ‘Big Green Egg’ to enjoy with the Pallieres?
We have just received into our warehouse, ‘THE’ value wine in the Brunier’s 
portfolio, Le Pigeoulet en Provence 2005 Rouge. This wine is produced from 80% Grenache Noir, 10% Cinsaut, 5% Syrah, and 5% Carignan. The grapes are grown in the Vaucluse near Beaumes de Venise and is meant to be friendly and consumed in its youth. The strength of the 2005 vintage makes this one not to miss.
Retail $13.99/WAREHOUSE $10.99
As an aside, Daniel Brunier will be showing off his wares in November at our stores in Sarasota, Winter Park and Ft. Lauderdale. This is not to be missed.
Another top CDP producer from the Kermit Lynch stable is Domaine de la Charbonniere. According to Robert Parker, this Domaine is ‘a marvelous discovery.’ WW has brought in two of the Maret family’s selections, the ’Mourre des Perdrix,’ and the ‘Cuvee Viellles Vignes’ which is produced from vines averaging 80 plus years of age. Both of these wines are terrific values for CDP as these are retailing at the prices that you may find many negociant bottlings.
‘The ‘Mourre de Perdrix’ CDP 2003 reveals a saturated 
dark ruby/purple-tinged color a well as a classic perfume of black cherries, raspberries, flowers, and a notion of barnyard earth. This wine displays a wonderful sweetness, purity, and overall elegance resembling a synthesis in style between a Grand Cru Cotes de Nuits and a Chateauneuf du Pape.’ (90-92 points) Wine Advocate Retail $44.99/WAREHOUSE $27.99
‘The ‘Cuvee Vielles Vignes’ CDP 2003 ‘exhibits notes of balsamic vinegar intermixed with damp earth, roasted Provencal herbs, and copious quantities of sweet kirsch liqueur and plums.’ (91-93 points) Wine Advocate Retail $46.99/WAREHOUSE $29.99
It would be difficult to write about Chateauneuf-du-Pape without mentioning the Perrin family of Chateau de Beaucastel fame. There is still a smattering of the 2003 Beaucastel available in our stores with the 2004 set to arrive in November. The Perrins produce a cuvee of CDP called ‘Les Sinards’ from grapes grown at Beaucastel and also from a 10 acre vineyard in the northern sector of Chateauneuf-du-Pape. This could be the best value CDP available in the market.
The 2003 made the ‘Top 100’ of the Wine Spectator and yet the Perrins feel that 2004 is a better vintage. The 2004 ‘Sinards’ has yet to be reviewed by the Wine Spectator and has received an (88-90) rating in the Wine Advocate with notes of ‘earthy, animal, and hints of saddle leather, black tea, sweet cherries and licorice. It is rich, medium to full-bodied and well made.’
Perrin Chateauneuf-du-Pape 'Les Sinards' 2004, Retail $29.99/WAREHOUSE $24.99
One cannot write about the Perrins without mentioning the incredible values that they offer to the consumer with their mid-tier offerings. WW is currently awaiting its next container of Perrin Cotes du Rhone and La Vieille Ferme. Arriving on this container will also be the Perrin Cotes du Rhone ‘Nature’ produced from organic grapes. Currently there are smokin’ prices on Perrin CDR Red and White and our version of ‘roll-back’ prices on LVF Cotes de Ventoux Red and Cotes du Luberon White.
Perrin Cotes du Rhone Red and White, Retail $10.99/WAREHOUSE $7.99La Vieille Ferme Cote de Ventoux Rouge and Cotes du Luberon Blanc,
1.5 liters, retail $14.99/WAREHOUSE $9.99
750mls, retail $7.99/WAREHOUSE $5.99
Let’s go back to Gigondas for a moment. For those of you who are a fan of Rhone wines and have never taken the opportunity to try the Domaine du Cayron Gigondas, please do yourselves a favor. Try this 2003. The wine has a nice deep color with exotic notes of incense, roasted meats, rosemary, thyme, licorice, and black truffles. The wine has no hard edges, is extremely long and is a hedonistic experience. The varieties involved are approximately 70% Grenache Noir, 15% Syrah, and 15% Cinsaut and Mourvedre.
Retail $24.99/WAREHOUSE $19.99
Just to the west of Chateauneuf-du-Pape and to the north of Tavel is the commune of Lirac. This is where Marine Roussel works her magic at Domaine du 
Joncier. Her vines are planted in rocky soil amongst the Galets as found in CDP. This 35 year old vineyard has a mix of 50% Grenache Noir, 20% Syrah, 10% Mourvedre, and 10% Cinsaut. Some of you may have met Marine this summer doing a tasting in one of our stores on our ‘Return to France’ tour. We have two cuvees from Marine currently in the stores. As Kermit says; ‘when trying the Joncier wines, try to think of the smoky aroma of meat grilling over a campfire next to a bathtub full of wild blueberries.’ Good stuff!Domaine du Joncier Lirac, Retail $15.99/WAREHOUSE $12.99
Domaine du Joncier Lirac ‘Les Muses’, Retail $19.99/WAREHOUSE $16.99
The region of Tricastin, bordering the Cotes du Rhone where it dips into Provence has more going on than meets the eye. Besides making some of the most interesting wines in the southern Rhone, the oak-covered hills of Tricastin are famous for truffles in the winter. From Domaine Saint Luc we carry both Coteaux du Tricastin rouge and Cotes du Rhone Villages. These wines have been perennial favorites in our stores. The Cotes du Rhone Villages red is a combination of 50% Grenache Noir, 35% Syrah,10% Carignan from 50 year old vines, and 5% Mourvedre from 100 year old vines. The Tricastin is produced from 70% Grenache Noir of 50 year old vines, and 30% Syrah of 30 year old vines. Both of these wines are terrific values.Domaine Saint Luc ‘Coteaux du Tricastin’ Rouge 2004, Retail $11.99/WAREHOUSE $8.99
Domaine St Luc ‘Cotes du Rhone Villages’ 2004, Retail $12.99/WAREHOUSE $9.99
Merci beaucoups………
No comments:
Post a Comment