Four on the floor: check out these new world Rieslings

When the mind envisions Riesling, it usually brings one to the steep slopes of the Mosel or the Rhine rivers. Riesling is a great noble variety made famous by the long-lived wines of Germany. In fact, in the 19th century the top Riesling estates in Germany were fetching the same prices as the top Chateaus in Bordeaux. Some of the world’s most striking Rieslings are grown in other various corners of the globe. These new world Riesling wines can produce wines of high acidity and extraction, making a wine that develops in the bottle much like a great red would. Riesling has the ability to produce wines of all sweetness levels and has a particular ability to exhibit the characteristics of the producing soil, as well as exotic floral characters, honey, and spiciness.

So just what is the extraordinarily distinct character of the Riesling grape? Although it is a relatively early ripening grape, where it is planted Reisling rarely produces wines with more than 12 per cent alcohol and is often responsible for wines with just 8 per cent in Germany which is a huge departure in this era of high alcohol wines. That must be why there is not a Mollydooker Riesling? Although Riesling may be low to moderate on the alcohol front, it is high-octane on the flavor spectrum.

Terpenes are the key to Riesling’s arresting aromas as Riesling is superbly aromatic. Its aroma is so sharp and piercing, combined with naturally high acidity, that it can resemble Sauvignon Blanc. Although Sauvignon's aromas are of herbs and green fruits such as green apples and gooseberries, Riesling's are more likely to be of roses, honey, minerals and citrus fruits. Muscat with its unique musky character is another grape that is high in the aromatic terpenes.

Let me hit you with some knowledge: Terpenes are distinctive flavor compounds associated with the floral aromas found in wines made from such varieties as Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Gewurtztraminer and Muscat. They are also found in oak, particularly American oak. Oxford Encyclopedia of Wine

Australia

Grosset is quite simply the finest Riesling producer in Australia. We are featuring the wine from his finest vineyard site, Polish Hills. I had the opportunity to meet Jeffrey Grosset in New York just over a year ago at the Wine Experience during a fabulous lunch overlooking Central Park in the new Time Warner building. I had not had the opportunity to try Jeffrey’s wines previously, but after that lunch Jeffrey had hooked another convert.

The Grosset Polish Hill vineyard is planted at 460 metres above sea level in a U-shaped ridge formation running north from Mount Horrocks in the Clare Valley. The soil is composed of shale, is not particularly fertile, and slightly acidic. The topsoil crust is of clay and shale. The vines are small and have to work hard to draw sustenance from the less generous soil, and berries are quite small which leads to concentration of flavors. Polish Hill produces grapes that make an austere and lean Riesling which reflects the nature of the terrain that Jeffrey Grosset, with his usual attention to geological constraints and possibilities, chose as his spot in the Polish Hill River area.

The Grosset Polish Hill Riesling was first produced in 1981 and is at the peak of its form, and with an established reputation as a wine of extraordinary consistency. This is the finest Riesling I have ever tasted from Australia. Polish Hill remains the jewel in the Grosset crown. With its powerful, pristine characteristics, its subtle floral, citrus and mineral nuances and fine acidity opening out to a long lingering lusciousness, the Polish Hill has become nationally and internationally a pre-eminent Riesling. Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate

'Making Riesling is the purest form of winemaking,' Jeffrey Grosset has said, and his Polish Hill - from a lean, spare even unlikely-looking terrain - has the purity, restraint, and austerity of art, but also its beauty, its resonance, its hidden surprises. Grosset is a perfectionist and the wines have incredible perfume and purity, lime/floral fruit profile balanced by an indelible acidity that cuts across the palate. This wine does much to define the distinctive character of Clare Valley Riesling.

Stuart Pigott, a world authority on Riesling, wrote after a visit to Grosset Wines that riesling wines are ‘dramatic images of the places where they grew and the seasons during which the grapes ripened'. But Grosset's wines, he said, are interfused not only with that sense of place and season, but with something he calls ‘the spirit of Jeff Grosset', a phenomenon that occurs by a means that ‘science has yet to explain'.

All of which helps you to understand how thoroughly deserved have been his many accolades, from Jeffrey's being listed as one of the fifty most influential winemakers in the world in Wine and Spirits in 2005.

Bright scents of peach and spice give this a bold attack, its richness retreating slowly, ending clean with a mouthwatering acidity at the edges. This is remarkably graceful given the flavour concentration and power. Delicious now with fat oysters or fleshy roast fish; Grosset's Rieslings at typically at their best ten years or more from the vintage. 93pts Wine and Spirits magazine

Bright, pale gold. Steely, mineral-driven citrus and orchard fruit aromas, with hints of fresh herbs and green tea. Light in weight but also impressively concentrated, with powerful lime and lemon flavors braced by strong acidity and slate character. This has superb focus and length, finishing on intense notes of citrus pith and minerals. 92pts International Wine Cellar

Despite shy aromatics, this delivers tremendous depth and character, finishing dry, with welcome delicacy and grace. The flavors center on mandarin orange, apricot and warm slate, lingering beautifully on the harmonious finish. Drink now through 2017. Only 380 cases made it to the US. 93pts Wine Spectator Magazine

Grosset ‘Polish Hills’ Riesling 2005, Retail $34.99 Warehouse $27.99

New Zealand

Richardson Riesling ‘Waipara’ 2005

Michelle Richardson is one of the most intense and focused winemakers that you will ever meet. She ran the show for Villa Maria’s winemaking team and garnered three ‘New Zealand winemaker of the year’ awards during her career at Villa. Michelle is now making wine on her own and has sought out some special and unique vineyard sights to produce under her ‘Richardson’ label.

Michelle’s Riesling is from the Waipara Valley in Canterbury. The wine was 100% stainless steel fermented using a selection of a Rhine derivative yeasts. The grapes were 100% handpicked and whole bunch pressed. The free run juice fermented in a stainless steel, temperature controlled tank between 13 – 15 degrees Celsius. The fermentation was stopped with a small amount of residual grape sugar for palate balance and style.

Michelle’s notes on the wine: The unique bouquet projects pineapple and ginger with hints of citrus and floral tones. The front palate is fruit driven and extends to form a well balanced palate that takes the fruit right through to the finish. While the wine appears dry, the slight residual sugar perfectly matches the natural fruit acid and wine body.

Only 112x6pks of this wine made it into the United States. Be the first on your block to try this delicious Riesling.

Richardson ‘Waipara’ Riesling 2005, Retail $29.99 Warehouse $19.99

Washington State

Ch St Michelle Riesling ‘Eroica’ 2005

The estate of Dr. Loosen owns some of the most renowned sites on the Mosel in Wehlen, Urzig and Erden and is acclaimed as one of Germany's most consistent quality producers across a range of styles, from dry to sweet. Ernie Loosen has teamed up with Washington State wine giant Ch St Michelle. This is a fantastic example of a Riesling from the Columbia Valley in Washington State. Ernie Loosen knows how to extract just the right amount of flavor and character out of the Riesling grape. His Eroica will not disappoint.

This seventh vintage of Eroica is made in a decidedly racy style. The wine delivers classic mineral and slate notes and lively, crisp acidity with juicy white peach aromas and flavors. Two new vineyards have been added to the blend for the first time this year that are northwest of the Wahluke Slope in a very cool, elevated site right next to the Gorge Amphitheater near the town of George, Washington.

Tangy style has real finesse, off-dry but balanced with citrusy tartness that shows up the lemon and white grapefruit flavors, finishing with hints of peach and white pepper. Drink now through 2010. 90 points Wine Spectator

Ch St Michelle ‘Eroica’ Riesling 2005, Retail $21.99 Warehouse $16.99


75% New world from Washington State

Bonny Doon ‘Pacific Rim’ Riesling 2005

Randall Graham has always been known for his ‘nutty-punster’ ramblings on his wine labels and on his web site. Brilliantly funny, Randall also has a keen sense of what consumers are looking for as well as an incredible knowledge of the wines of the world. Randall has recently sold his ‘Big House’ brand and has separated the Pacific Rim wines from his Bonny Doon offerings.

The Pacific Rim Riesling is an unusual blending of both the new and the old world. The base of this wine is from Eastern Washington State. This area experiences cool and clear weather in late September and early October which helps fully ripen the Riesling while maintaining its natural acidity. Apparently this character was not enough for Randall as the wine has blended into it 25% Riesling from the Mosel Valley in Germany. Randall says: ‘As brilliant as the Washington grapes are, they are lacking the haunting floral perfume and crushing acidity that occurs in the brilliant wines of the Mosel.’ This is a superb value and will beg you to have some stir-fry with it.

Pacific Rim Riesling 2005, Retail $9.99 Warehouse $7.99


Riesling is the most food friendly wine on the planet. ‘Live a little.’ Try a distinctive Riesling tonight. You’ll be glad you did.

Herr Bloggenheimer