Don’t overlook the sandwich……….

We’re talking about the 2004 vintage in the southern Rhone. Being sandwiched between two very distinct vintages can make the middle one feel left out. 2003 was a scorcher of a year after the disastrous 2002 flood vintage. The 2003’s are very expressive and ripe. The heat spikes made the wines a bit more rustic than usual. The 2005 growing season could not have been more even. So what about the 2004’s? They show none of the severe tannins of the 2003 vintage. The 2004 growing season was hot from May through July. Even though 2004 was another drought year, it was not with the extreme conditions found in 2003.

Producers who had the experience and guts to wait until the end of September to pick brought in grapes whose flavors had finally caught up to their sugars. The grapes had achieved sugar ripeness, yet still had some under-ripe tannins to resolve through longer hang-time on the vine. Because of the longer, more moderate season, acidities in 2004 are higher than in recent warm vintages such as 2003 and 2000 with most growers comparing the vintage to more traditionally-styled years, such as in 1999. We have had some stunning wines from 2004. This is not a vintage to be overlooked.

Let me hit you with some knowledge: Chateauneuf-du-Pape has 13 authorized grape varieties that can be utilized in its production, 8 of them red and 5 of them white. The most important red variety is Grenache Noir for its potency, with raspberry and cracked pepper characters. Syrah is known for its meaty and dark fruit characters with structure and tannins. Mourvedre’s character is meaty, spicy and saddle-leather. Mourvedre is grown in the warmest spots as it is a Mediterranean variety that is used to the heat. The other red varieties are Cinsaut, Muscardin, Vaccarese, Picpoul, Terret Noir and Counoise. Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Bourbelenc and Picardin are the permitted white varieties. The Perrin’s Chateau de Beacastel uses all 13 varieties in its red by using a small percentage of the white varieties to co-ferment with the red. The Bruniers at Vieux Telegraphe also co-ferment a small amount of white varieties into their CDP red. Co-fermentation experiments have shown that the co-fermented reds can actually turn out darker due to the chemical reaction between the red and white grapes. This process is also known in Hermitage with Syrah and Marsanne, in Cote Rotie with Syrah and Viognier, and is emerging as a trend in the new world with Shiraz/Viognier.

Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe is one of the standard bearers for the Chateauneuf du Pape appellation. Blessed with just over 160 acres of vines, the red grape vines average over 50 years of age. These older vines have had the opportunity to let their roots grow deep into the subsoil which insolates the vine against the conditions of drought years and excessive rains. These older vines tend to be in balance and lower yielding for more intensity of fruit character.

Daniel Brunier allows the grapes to do the talking in his wines. VT is not a product of overt new oak, but a harmonious gathering of several key grape varieties which generate power and complexity all by themselves. The grapes are sorted twice before being partially crushed and de-stemmed. Fermented in temperature controlled stainless steel vats and then on to marry in epoxy lined concrete vats for 10 months before being racke into large oak foudres for 12 months. The wine is not filtered and then bottled. This is an absolute world-class wine. This is priced below many classified Bordeaux Chateau’s second labels. This CDP is still an amazing value.


DOMAINE DU VIEUX TÉLÉGRAPHE Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau 2004
Pure and silky, with raspberry, cocoa, truffle and mineral notes that glide along fresh acidity. Long, silky finish lets the fruit and minerality hang nicely, while the garrigue hangs in the background, This should blossom in the cellar. Best from 2008 through 2025. 94pts Wine Spectator

The 2004 Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf du Pape, which is a selection of the oldest vines of the estate, is a stunning wine made from a blend of 60% Grenache, 20% Mourvedre, 15% Syrah, and the rest various other red varietals. There are 17,000 cases from their huge holdings in the famed eastern sector known as La Crau. This wine has deep ruby/plum color and a sweet nose of kirsch liqueur, licorice, and salty sea breezes. This is a top-notch Vieux Telegraphe, and I could tell that Daniel Brunier thinks it’s the finest he’s made since 1998. The tannins are sweet, the wine full-bodied, but certainly capable of 15-20 years of evolution. 92-94pts The Wine Advocate

Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf du Pape 2004, Retail $51.99 Warehouse $39.99

Telegramme, originally the label was used for the washed out disaster of the 2002 vintage. It proved to be so popular that the Brunier family now uses it for the grapes that do not make it in the Grand Vin. This wine and the Perrin Sinards are a much better option than the usual negociant bottlings of CDP.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape Télégramme 2004
Racy, with cassis and red plum fruit held in check by racy mineral, garrigue and graphite notes. Long, taut finish. Drink now through 2014. 89 points Wine Spectator

Chateauneuf du Pape Telegramme 2004, Retail $29.99 Warehouse $24.99

The Perrin’s of Chateau de Beaucastel fame produce a Chateauneuf du Pape from the younger vines at Château de Beaucastel, together with a leased vineyard of 7 hectares that lies to the west of Beaucastel, in the commune of Orange. The blend is 70% Grenache, 15% Syrah and 15% Mourvèdre. The wine is vinified in the same manner as Château de Beaucastel and is matured in casks for a year before bottling.

The 2004 Perrin Chateauneuf du Pape Les Sinards includes culled-out lots that don’t make the grade at Chateau Beaucastel plus purchased grapes from a 10-acre vineyard in the northern sector of Chateauneuf du Pape in the quarter known as Gres. It is about 70% Grenache and the rest Counoise, Syrah, and Mourvedre. The wine shows earthy, animal notes with hints of saddle leather, black tea, sweet cherries, and licorice. It is rich, medium to full-bodied, and well-made. 88-90pts Wine Advocate

Perrin ‘Les Sinards’ Chateauneuf du Pape 2004, Retail $29.99 Warehouse $24.99

Chateau de Beaucastel 2004 was the top scorer in The Wine Spectator’s CDP issue. It is just arriving in the state as we blog. Look for it to be in our stores shortly.

Let me put a 'Shout'o'neuf' out to TD in the warehouse.

The sandwich vintage will prove that it’s a fine time to be a Rhone wine lover………