‘Crunchy’ is as ‘crunchy’ does.

At a recent tasting at our Palmetto store, a gentleman came up to me and mentioned that he would like for us to carry more ‘organic’ wines. My ‘crunchy’ light-bulb went off and I very excitedly took the man on a tour of the store. At the Wine Warehouse you will see the ladybug sign dangling off of the end of shelf tags where it indicates that the wine is grown by organic, biodynamic or sustainable methods. There is a literal infestation of ladybugs currently roaming the shelves from a myriad of countries at your local Wine Warehouse.

Slowly but surely we are becoming a nation where the way your product was produced has a significant meaning in the marketplace. Currently at Chez Blogmeister, if you walk in my kitchen you will find organically grown products such as olive oil, low-fat yogurt, low-fat milk, blueberries, nuts, chicken, tomatoes, with fair-trade coffee being consumed by a fiscally conservative guy wearing Birkenstocks. Organic isn’t just at Whole Foods anymore as Publix has its ‘Greenwise’ section and even Walmart has an organic section. Say no more! Nudge, nudge. Organic is here to stay. The emergence of post WW2 agrochemicals is going full-circle and to pre-WW2 methods; organic.

The reduction of agrochemicals in grape farming can have many benefits. With chemical reduction on farms, winery workers are not subject to breathing these chemicals with the added benefit of no risk of any chemical residue making it into your wine. With less agrochemicals, the vine and the soil that it lives in is said to be healthier and more resistant to maladies. Depending on the vineyard site, it may be less expensive to farm without chemical treatments. Large wineries such as Gallo and Robert Mondavi have been moving some of their vineyards to organic farming in advance of impending health initiatives in California and with the thought of being able to benefit from the ability to be able to market an ‘organically grown’ product. Any reduction in potential liability for a corporation will be a benefit to both the corporation and its customers. Although I recently read somewhere that a labor group is now pushing synthetic weed-killers as they feel that too much bending over and pulling weeds can lead to sore backs and (get this) health issues. You see, there is a yin and a yang to every situation.

Healthy living is not just derived by the elimination of agrochemicals but by the sustainability of all of the things that we produce or consume during our day. I’m sure that you may have noticed various businesses including wineries looking to lessen their ‘carbon footprint’ on the planet. Select wineries are now employing solar panels for sustainable electricity, recycling winery wastewater, using less or no chemicals in the vineyard and are buying ‘carbon offsets’ to compensate for any shortfalls in their ‘carbon footprint’ on the planet. Is ‘crunchy’ important?

A recent survey reported by Decanter Magazine may refute the importance of a ‘healthy’ product to the average consumer.

According to Decanter Magazine, the majority of UK consumers do not care if their wine is organic or Fairtrade, and do not understand what biodynamic means. Market research firm Wine Intelligence asked 2000 regular wine drinkers for their views on wine that is produced with consideration to social, ethical and environmental issues.

Unlike organic and sustainably produced food – which respondents believe tastes better and merits a premium compared with non-organic food – wine has a perception problem: most respondents said they thought organically produced and Fairtrade wine would not taste good.

Remember…………….wine is food…………

Regardless of anyone’s skepticism as to the relative importance of green products to the consumer; we see many ‘green’ products selling at an increasing rate and ‘green’ habits beginning to be incorporated in our lives. Hybrid cars are currently all the rage; particularly at today’s current gasoline prices. I still dream of a local biodiesel station popping up in Jacksonville. I’d love to have my vehicle spewing the smell of French fries instead of petroleum. The quandary is whether my car might be a vegan and might prefer the more expensive soybean version of biodiesel as opposed to animal fat. Is ‘green’ here to stay? There are now departments for organic produce and nontoxic cleaning supplies at supermarkets, the Home Depot is selling energy-efficient light bulbs, paint that is low in pollutants and wood harvested according to the principles of sustainable forestry. Many cities are now recycling. Why not expect a ‘green’ choice to be available and promoted at your local wine store? Thus, the Wine Warehouse delivers you many ‘green’ choices in our stores.

Let’s get down to the ‘green’ wine basics:

Organic wine is produced from grapes grown in a vineyard that has been certified organic and processed according to the organic standards defined by the certifying agency of each country. This means that no chemical or artificial fertilizers, pesticides, herbicides or other treatments were used on the grapevines. In addition, the level of sulfites is naturally less than 10 parts per million as none have been added during winemaking. Genetically engineered yeast and vines are prohibited. You’ll see it called ecológico and biolóogico on Spanish bottles, organique or biologique on French bottles and organico on Italian bottles. No sulfur means not very stable. There are a few ‘organic wines’ available but can be a roll of the dice as to whether they are free from oxygen and a chance re-fermentation in the bottle.

The more common ‘made with organic grapes’ wine has been made using certified organically grown grapes. Genetically engineered yeast and vines are prohibited, but other winemaking techniques such as fining and filtering may be employed. Wine labeled “Made with organic grapes” may contain added sulfites.

Let’s look at a few organically grown wines from some recent blogs:

(France) Farmed organically,Vieux Telegraphe is one of the best known estates of the Southern Rhône. Vieux Télégraphe has 45 hectares of red grapevines planted, with an average age of around 55 years. Blessed with one of the finest locations in CDP, the mesoclimate enables the Bruniers to be able to harvest as much as a week ahead of their neighbours. Vieux Télégraphe's blend is a typical one in CDP, with Grenache accounting for around two thirds of the cuvee, with the remainder being made up of Syrah and Mourvèdre in roughly equal proportions, with a tiny bit of Cinsault thrown in for good measure.

Pure and silky, with raspberry, cocoa, truffle and mineral notes that glide along the fresh acidity. The long, silky finish lets the fruit and minerality hang nicely, with garrigue in the background. Should blossom in the cellar. Best from 2008 through 2025. 94pts Wine Spectator

Domaine Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf du Pape 2004, Retail $51.99 Warehouse $44.99

(South Africa) Tulbagh Mountain Vineyard Syrah/Mourvedre 2004; 85% Syrah 15% Mourvedre. Produced from yields of a mere .8 tons per acre, hand picked grapes are cooled in their cold room, then they are crushed and destemmed into tank, and 5% whole bunches are added. The must is pigeaged once a day. After about 4 days, fermentation begins, and the wine is pigeaged two to three times a day. Fermentation generally lasts from 7 to 10 days. After fermentation, a couple of weeks skin contact is given, and the wine is then drained and pressed to barrel. The wine was racked once at blending (after a year in barrel), and bottled after 22 months in barrel.

Nice Syrah-driven notes of black cherry and mineral, with good smoke, game, tobacco, olive and mineral hints. The rich, smoky finish shows power and purity, with fine length. Drink now through 2008. 1,175 cases made. – 90 points Wine Spectator

Tulbagh Mountain Vineyards Syrah-Mourvedre 2004, Retail $29.99 Warehouse $24.99

(France) Guy Breton’s Vielles Vignes Morgon 2005 cuvee is produced from grapes grown on 80 year old vines. Only 1700 cases are produced on average per year. (My review before the review)The 2005 sports a pretty shade of a cross between raspberry and red roses. I cannot escape the feeling that this wine is a dead ringer for Pinot Noir. Silky cranberry with a touch of blue fruits emerge on the palate. Character continues to expand in the glass. This wine will drink well now, but should keep well for at least a decade.

Bright red. High-pitched aromas of wild strawberry, raspberry preserves and fresh flowers. Intense floral pastille notes accent ripe red berry flavors, with suave, silky tannins adding gentle support. This deepened with air, picking up a darker cherry tone but maintaining its bright, energetic personality. Here's another Cote de Beaune ringer. 91 points Steve Tanzer

Guy Breton Morgon VV 2005, Retail $25.99 Warehouse $19.99

(France) Marcel Lapierre Morgon 2005. Marcel Lapierre farms 22 acres of 40 year old vines in Granitic soil. Production averages around 3500 cases per year. (My review before the review) This is the flashiest of the ‘Gang’ showing a vibrant black-cherry color with a rich, meaty, raspberry nose. The palate shows the structure of a fine Pinot Noir with enticing aromatics of raspberry and blueberries. Serious stuff! Continues to gain aromatics and flavor in the glass.

Dark red with a bright rim. Lush, sexy aromas of raspberry, blackberry and Asian spices. Deep and rich on the palate, offering intense dark fruit flavors, a plush texture and gentle framing acidity. Very sexy stuff, finishing on a sweet black raspberry note, with outstanding depth and length. 92 points Steve Tanzer

Marcel Lapierre Morgon 2005, Retail $24.99 Warehouse $16.99

Some other organic producers to look for in the WW:

Domaine Kuentz-Bas
A&P de Villaine
Champagne Tarlant
Chateau Beaucastel
Perrin ‘Nature’

Biodynamic may be the most mysterious practice of all as Biodynamic wine is made from grapes grown according to the method based on the teachings of Austrian Rudolf Steiner. Soil is kept healthy and vital with the use of compost and manure produced on-site as well as planting in timing with the phases of the moon. Chemical and synthetic herbicides, fungicides, pesticides, hormones, antibiotics and genetically modified organisms are strictly prohibited in the winemaking process.

Biodynamics has become notorious for seemingly bizarre practices like filling cow horns with dung and burying them in vineyards and aligning certain chores with phases of the moon and stars. Some scientific studies have shown that biodynamics can be effective even if the underlying reasons for this are not yet understood. No matter what, the quality has to be good or biodynamics does not matter.

How about a biodynamic wine at less than 7 bucks with a 90 in Parker?

(Spain) Vinedos y Bodegas Pablo is a family-owned estate, founded in 1760, emphasizing the use of indigenous varietals and biodynamic farming. This is an impressive portfolio from top to bottom. For starters is the unoaked 2005 Menguante Garnacha produced from 80-year-old vines. Purple in color, it exhibits a fragrant nose of kirsch and blueberry. Medium-bodied, this wine is packed with ripe fruit and layers of flavor all the way through to the finish. This awesome value can be likened to a Cotes du Rhone on steroids. Kudos to the Pablo family! 90 points Wine Advocate.

Menguante Garnacha 2005, Retail $8.99 Warehouse $6.99

Some other Biodynamic producers to look for in the WW:

Domaine Zind-Humbrecht
Domaine Bott-Geyl
Champagne Bruno Michel
Champagne Franck Pascal
Champagne Francoise Bedel

Lutte Raisonee or ‘Sustainable’ is a French term loosely meaning “rational control” or “well thought-out fight” intended to protect both nature and the consumer from unnecessary crop treatments. Growing lutte raisonnée favors sustainable solutions for the eradication of pests and plant disease. Wines produced lutte raisonnée are not certified organic and can include synthetic treatments; however, they are kept to a minimum. In the New World, lutte raisonnée is called INTEGRATED PEST MANAGEMENT and can be certified by L.I.V.E. (Low Input Viticulture & Enology), a program providing vineyards and wineries official recognition for sustainable agricultural practices modeled after international standards. LOW-SULFITE OR NO ADDED SULFITES refers to wines that have less than 10 parts sulfites per million. Sulfites are a natural product of fermentation and there are no truly “sulfite-free” wines. Certified organic wines are naturally low-sulfite as no added sulfites have been used in the production. Contrary to what many people think, white wines generally contain higher levels of sulfites than reds. Even though sulfur has been used in winemaking for centuries and is a natural product, is effective as a sterilant, an anti-oxidative and antimicrobial; in order to be an organic wine, there must be less than 10 ppm of total sulfur in the finished wine. Modern winemaking techniques have allowed wineries to limit their use of sulfur in winemaking.

Many of the wines from Villa Maria in New Zealand and Cono Sur in Chile are farmed using sustainable methods.

Some other sustainable producers to look for in the WW:

Domaine Francois Jobard
Domaine Guy Amiot
Domaine Lucien Boillot
Domaine Maume
Domaine Michel Colin
Domaine Robert Denogent
Champagne J. Lassalle
Chateau Ducasse
Graville-Lacoste
Roumieu-Lacoste

Please excuse the longer than usual blog. ‘Green’ farmed grapes are a subject that is very near and dear to our hearts at the Wine Warehouse. Be on the lookout for many new ‘green’ offerings in the near future.

Santé, Dude!