Day-O, Verdejo……………..

‘Day-o, day-ay-ay-o

Daylight come and he wan' go home

Day, he say day, he say day, he say day, he say day, he say day-ay-ay-o

Daylight come and he wan' go home’

Actually I doubt that Harry was singing about Ver-dej-ej-ej-o because until the 1970’s, the Verdejo grape (pronounced ver-day-o) was vinified like a dry sherry and allowed to oxidize. This process and style was practiced to please the Spanish royal court, but was eliminated in the 1970’s when the taste in Europe began to change. The Verdejo grape has been grown in Rueda for centuries. Verdejo’s origins date back to the 11th century, to the time of King Alfonso VI.

Verdejo’s modern version is much hipper than the version from the 70’s. The modern version of Verdejo is akin to a racy Sauvignon Blanc or sexy Albarino. If these grapes are on your radar screen, Verdejo is your next stop. Modern Verdejo is fresh, green appley, peachy and zingy.

In the 1970's, it was Marques de Riscal winery who initiated a renaissance in Rueda winemaking. Riscal recognized that modern winemaking equipment could produce a fresh and delicious wine from Verdejo, a revelation, since the grape oxidizes very rapidly to naturally produce sherry-like aromas. Verdejo has a unique flavor, with a hint of scrub herbs, a fruity touch and an excellent level of acidity.

Rueda is located in northwestern Spain - just south of the River Duero and not far from the Portuguese border. Rueda was scorched bare by retreating Moors in the tenth century. The region lay fallow for generations. During this period, a wild grape, Verdejo, appeared throughout the district. As Rueda was resettled in the 11th century, the grape was gradually domesticated throughout the district. Rueda is an historic Spanish white wine zone named after the unprepossessing town which straddles the main road from Madrid to León in Castilla y León. In the Middle Ages, vineyards flourished on this bleak Castilian plateau and cellars were hollowed out of the limestone under the town, but after phylloxera ravaged the zone, Rueda went into rapid decline. The high-yielding palomino grape was used for replanting, a move that in this case was justified since the main local styles were fortified wines in the image of sherry.

Let me hit you with some knowledge: The Verdejo vine has a small to medium sized pentagonal leaf, with a medium-sized petiolar sinus which hardly opens out, a hairless back, and nerves and petiole with little or no hair. The clusters are medium-sized, with a very short stem. The berries are also medium-sized, short, usually spherical or elliptical, and the seeds tend to be somewhat large, and can easily be seen when the grape is held up to the light.

You will want to experience Verdejo within 18 months of its harvest. The 2006 white wines from Rueda display medium to medium plus aromatic intensity with 13 to 13.5 alcohol content, they have a nicely structured and complex mouthfeel, leading to a well balanced, refreshing, racy and zingy finish on the palate.

A few Verdejo’s to try:

For six generations, the Sanz family has been making wines in Rueda. In 2005, Ricardo Sanz created started producing his wines under the new Sitios de Bodega label in Rueda with US importer Eric Solomon. The project distinguishes his modern approach to Rueda wines from that of his father, who still produces traditional wines under other labels. To capture the essence of the Verdejo grape, which can easily oxidize, Ricardo began night-harvesting, putting the delicate fruit into small plastic boxes. Immediately after de-stemming, the grapes are covered with an inert gas to protect them from oxidation. Skin contact which draws out the racy perfumes of the varietal, is kept to a minimum and observed carefully. The must settles at a cool temperature (14 degrees C), and the must then ferments for 25 to 30 days, after which Ricardo will stir the fine lees periodically to give creaminess, complexity and a round mouth-feel.

From the Sanz’ Sitios de Bodega:

The 2006 Con Class Verdejo is 100% varietal from old vines. Light gold-color, it is rich, more intense, and longer in the finish than its less expensive sibling. It is a great value. This pair of custom cuvees is a joint venture of importer Eric Solomon and winemaker Ricardo Sanz. The wines are produced from organically farmed fruit planted on pure chalk at high altitude. 90pts Wine Advocate

Sitios de Bodega ‘Conclass’ Verdejo 2006, Retail $11.99 Warehouse $9.99

The 2006 Con Class Rueda is 80% Verdejo, 10% Viura, and 10% Sauvignon Blanc. Medium straw-colored, it reveals aromas and flavors of melons and citrus in a refreshing style. This excellent value offers surprising complexity for a wine of its humble price. This pair of custom cuvees is a joint venture of importer Eric Solomon and winemaker Ricardo Sanz. The wines are produced from organically farmed fruit planted on pure chalk at high altitude. 88pts Wine Advocate

Sitios de Bodega ‘Conclass’ Rueda 2006, Retail $9.99 Warehouse $8.99

From Blanco Nieve:

We have another Verdejo from Rueda coming in our warehouse in July called Blanca Nieva. This wine has a cult following in Spain as it has a vibrant character, a vivacious and focused combination of pear, lime and quince flavors that finish with a light herbal tinge. The Blanco Nieve is fabulously refreshing, delicate and yet complex. This is the beauty of the Verdejo grape when it is in its top form. Soon to be at a Wine Warehouse near you.

Blanca Nieva Verdejo Rueda 2006, Retail $16.99 Warehouse $12.99

Verdejo captures the vivacity of a fresh Pinot Grigio with the racy and herbal qualities of a juicy Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. This style of wine is a perfect match for our tropical climate. A young Verdejo is refreshing and slightly cerebral, yet only as cerebral as you need it to be. Da-O……..